 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / UK Car Forums / General Car Topics (UK group) / January 2007Seeking bolt-in Schraeder valve
I'm trying to find a car-tyre valve (ie ordinary Schraeder type) - ie the whole assembly, not just the insert - that I can pass through a hole in a flat surface and seal it (presumably with a bolt and washer either side of the surface. (The idea is to make an adaptor to enable me to pressurise bits of central heating system for testing purposes). I've tried a couple of tyre/exhaust fitters and two motor factors without success - any ideas? The alternative is to spend 30 squids on bespoke test gear... :-( > I'm trying to find a car-tyre valve (ie ordinary Schraeder type) - ie the > whole assembly, not just the insert - that I can pass through a hole in a [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > success - any ideas? The alternative is to spend 30 squids on bespoke > test gear... :-( I'm surprised you didn't get a result at a tyre fitters. Various alloy wheels have/did have bolt-in valves, I used one once to equip a vehicle with a means of charging an air system from the home compressor. I'll have a look in the garage in the morning, I may have one lying around. Steve > I'm trying to find a car-tyre valve (ie ordinary Schraeder type) - ie the > whole assembly, not just the insert - that I can pass through a hole in a [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > success - any ideas? The alternative is to spend 30 squids on bespoke > test gear... :-( Take a compression fitting blanking plug. Drill a hole of the correct diameter in it for the valve. Take an old bike inner tube. Cut it so the rubber left is of the same size of the inside of the plug. Put some suitable glue on - evostik? Stick the valve through the hole, leaving the rubber bit on the inside, having arranged the glue to attach the rubber ring bit to the inside of the plug. Job done. The pressure will be working in the same direction as the glue if you do it that way round, so the joint isn't under stress, and will probably actually work. I did something similar years ago and it worked for ages - I think it was a lemonade bottle cap, and I probably used araldite. cheers, clive >> I'm trying to find a car-tyre valve (ie ordinary Schraeder type) - ie >> the whole assembly, not just the insert - that I can pass through a [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > actually work. I did something similar years ago and it worked for ages > - I think it was a lemonade bottle cap, and I probably used araldite. Yes I'd considered doing it that way, but TBH had rejected it on safety grounds... I wouldn't be pumping up all that high but still, given the large volume of air inside a few radiators, there would be a massive amount of energy to be released in the event of a failure (ie if the valve were to pull through the hole under pressure). So I'd rather have a retaining nut inside the blanking plug if at all possible! David >> The pressure will be working in the same direction as the glue if you do >> it that way round, so the joint isn't under stress, and will probably [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > were to pull through the hole under pressure). So I'd rather have a > retaining nut inside the blanking plug if at all possible! No need - seriously. It's pressure that's relevant, not the volume - the valve can't tell whether it's in a lemonade bottle at 25psi or a massive petrol-tanker sized receiver at the same pressure. And the pressure you'll be putting into it for leak testing will be tiny. cheers, clive >>> The pressure will be working in the same direction as the glue if you do >>> it that way round, so the joint isn't under stress, and will probably [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > cheers, > clive i have a brand new brass schrader valve of the type that is reqired, we used them on coach wheels at about 110 psi but they would take much-much more it is 4 inches long can be bent if required and it has a retaining nut and polypropelene sealing ring, you are welcome to it if you collect >>> The pressure will be working in the same direction as the glue if you do >>> it that way round, so the joint isn't under stress, and will probably [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > petrol-tanker sized receiver at the same pressure. And the pressure you'll > be putting into it for leak testing will be tiny. The volume is very relevant if it's compressed air, as it sounds is the case here. If a valve were to fail, all that air recovers its original volume very quickly, like he said. It's why test equipment for instance for hydrolastic suspensions systems, first evacuates the system, then fills it with a liquid which is incompressible. Incidentally, I checked the garage today, but can't find the valve I thought I had. Sorry. Steve >>>> The pressure will be working in the same direction as the glue if you >>>> do it that way round, so the joint isn't under stress, and will [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > for hydrolastic suspensions systems, first evacuates the system, then > fills it with a liquid which is incompressible. a) Only as quickly as it can come out of the hole. Even if the entire of a schrader valve pops, at the pressures he'll be testing his CH at it won't cause a problem. We're not talking high pressure stuff here, unlike the test pressure for a hydrolastic setup - I'd be surprised if it was more than about 25psi, and a CH system, being composed of lots of lengths of pipe, will provide quite a lot of resistance to it all coming out suddenly. b) The chance of the valve failing is only related to the pressure, not the volume. Like I said, I've done this sort of thing with a plastic lemonade bottle cap, which is far weaker than my suggested compression end fitting. I put rather more pressure into that bottle than you would to test the pipes... Hmm, thinks - actually, the compression joint itself will probably be the weak point. It's not the valve popping out of the cap you'd have to worry about, it's the cap itself falling off the pipe. But that will only be a problem if you inflate it too hard for any compression joints elsewhere in the system, so in real life this won't be a problem. cheers, clive > I'm trying to find a car-tyre valve (ie ordinary Schraeder type) - ie > the whole assembly, not just the insert - that I can pass through a hole > in a flat surface and seal it (presumably with a bolt and washer either > side of the surface. (The idea is to make an adaptor to enable me to > pressurise bits of central heating system for testing purposes). > I've tried a couple of tyre/exhaust fitters and two motor factors > without success - any ideas? The alternative is to spend 30 squids on > bespoke test gear... :-( You want what is known as a 'high speed' valve. Fitted to many alloys as standard equipment. So find an alloy wheel specialist or one of the boy racer sites. If all else fails, Rimmer Bros sell them. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk:80/cgi-bin/rimmer?findpart&PartID=CAC4123A&Page=rove r/sd1/wheels  Signature*Never miss a good chance to shut up.* Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. >> I'm trying to find a car-tyre valve (ie ordinary Schraeder type) - ie >> the whole assembly, not just the insert - that I can pass through a hole [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk:80/cgi-bin/rimmer?findpart&PartID=CAC4123A&Page=rove r/sd1/wheels Great - thanks Dave: (it was actually an old post of yours I found trawling the uk.d-i-y archives which put me on to this idea in the first place!) David > I'm trying to find a car-tyre valve (ie ordinary Schraeder type) - ie the > whole assembly, not just the insert - that I can pass through a hole in a [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > success - any ideas? The alternative is to spend 30 squids on bespoke > test gear... :-( NO PROBLEM ---- go to ATS or any tyre company that supplies coach or truck tyres and get a brass one they are about an inch and a half long, what area do you come from if its close i "think without looking" i may have one in my shed email me your town on my personal email if you dont want it public |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.