Antifreeze for a '95 Volvo 960

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Andy Dingley - 03 Nov 2007 16:19 GMT

What antifreeze should I put into this thing? AIUI, they're somewhat
fussy (the 2.5l aluminium straight-6) and the earlier 3l had an
infamously poor reputation for block leak problems, whether caused by
poor castings or by incorrect antifreeze.

Unipart have just given me the "They're all the same, guv" response.
They also offered an OAT, which could have been made from oatmal for all
the advice the guy in the shop could offer.

I'm loathe to go and buy Volvo's magic fluid, because I doubt very much
if it's any better than many other equally comparable products -- but
how to tell ? Is there any standard quality rating system for
antifreeze? What is the Volvo stuff anyway, just a corrosion inhibited
ethylene glycol with a low phosphate content?

Even my Bosch handbook seems quiet on antifreeze grading. Is a more
recent edition (6th or 7th) any more informative?

Thanks for any advice

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James Sweet - 03 Nov 2007 19:26 GMT

> What antifreeze should I put into this thing? AIUI, they're somewhat
> fussy (the 2.5l aluminium straight-6) and the earlier 3l had an
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Thanks for any advice

The Saab guys swear by Mercedes antifreeze. It's not super expensive and it
plays nice with alloy engines. The 900 engine is prone to head gasket
failure if you use the green stuff in it.

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big dom - 03 Nov 2007 21:45 GMT

>> What antifreeze should I put into this thing? AIUI, they're somewhat
>> fussy (the 2.5l aluminium straight-6) and the earlier 3l had an
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> it plays nice with alloy engines. The 900 engine is prone to head gasket
> failure if you use the green stuff in it.

Seems to be some 'alchemy' surrounding antifreeze. Any good ethelene gylcol
based stuff will do. Important thing is concentration and to change when
specified.

I've heard bad things about the composition of the 'green' stuff
(phosphates) but we don't get it in europe...

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Andy Dingley - 04 Nov 2007 00:49 GMT

>Seems to be some 'alchemy' surrounding antifreeze. Any good ethelene gylcol
>based stuff will do. Important thing is concentration and to change when
>specified.

That certainly isn't true. Neat ethylene glycol might be a great
antifreeze, but it's not a corrosion inhibitor.

Also a number of major car makers in the last 15 years have switched to
"long life" coolants. Ford went with organic acids, others (including
Volvo) found some variant of ethylene glycol. "Simple" ethylene glycols
aren't a substitute for either.

>I've heard bad things about the composition of the 'green' stuff
>(phosphates) but we don't get it in europe...

Yes we do.

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John Robertson - 04 Nov 2007 04:09 GMT

Make sure you get pure anti freeze as some are full of water and a tad of
anti freeze .Make sure its a top brand not a unknown who cares product .Be
sure its rated for anti freeze anti corrosion anti boil,all three .Mke sure
its for aluminuim .BP SHELL ESSO MOBIL NULON CASTROL .The blocks had a
problem with thin wall porosity ..

> What antifreeze should I put into this thing? AIUI, they're somewhat
> fussy (the 2.5l aluminium straight-6) and the earlier 3l had an
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Thanks for any advice

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John Horner - 10 Nov 2007 03:34 GMT

Zerex G-05 fluid is my choice for modern Volvos. It is specifically
approved by Mercedes and is a very similar formulation to the Volvo
factory stuff.

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Andy Dingley - 21 Nov 2007 01:20 GMT

>Zerex G-05 fluid is my choice for modern Volvos. It is specifically
>approved by Mercedes and is a very similar formulation to the Volvo
>factory stuff.

Are you in Europe? AFAIK, Valvoline don't supply it around here (UK)
Does anyone know a UK source for it?

I'm also a bit surprised - I thought this was an OAT coolant, and the
Volvo one wasn't?

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Dave Plowman (News) - 10 Nov 2007 08:07 GMT

> What antifreeze should I put into this thing? AIUI, they're somewhat
> fussy (the 2.5l aluminium straight-6) and the earlier 3l had an
> infamously poor reputation for block leak problems, whether caused by
> poor castings or by incorrect antifreeze.

I think pretty well all decent anti-freeze is now suitable for aluminium
engines - unlike at one time. I've been using Halfords stuff for many
years on my Rover SD1 which has an all alloy engine (apart from the twisty
bits obviously) and recent examination showed the interior of the water
jacket to be like new. I change it every couple of years. Usually because
a hose has burst etc rather than scheduled. ;-)

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