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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / December 2007repairing Bosch jetronic box for volvo 240
Has anybody got experiences in repairing the bosch jettronic computer box outof a 91 240. The computer does not seem to make the fuel pump work. The relais is ok. The car runs fine with another box. type is 0 282 000 561 any help is welcome > Has anybody got experiences in repairing the bosch jettronic computer box > outof a 91 240. > The computer does not seem to make the fuel pump work. The relais is ok. > The car runs fine with another box. > type is 0 282 000 561 > any help is welcome I've never seen one fail, but I would look for cracked solder joints on the board. I fixed a Bosch ECU from a VW once that had a shorted filter capacitor just after the voltage regulator on the board. hi James, I have opend the box but all connections are double soldered. I couldn't find any "exploded" parts or so. A electronic scheme would be most helpfull, but.... >> Has anybody got experiences in repairing the bosch jettronic computer box >> outof a 91 240. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > the board. I fixed a Bosch ECU from a VW once that had a shorted filter > capacitor just after the voltage regulator on the board. > hi James, > I have opend the box but all connections are double soldered. I couldn't [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >> the board. I fixed a Bosch ECU from a VW once that had a shorted filter >> capacitor just after the voltage regulator on the board. Even @ the dealer level we do not have any access to any wiring diagrams for the Bosch computers the original problem is that the fuel computer is not making a ground point causing no fuel pressure the only fix that I know of is to purchase an exchange unit from a Volvo dealer or from your local junk yard  Signature" Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new" -- Albert Einstein > hi James, > I have opend the box but all connections are double soldered. I couldn't > find any "exploded" parts or so. A electronic scheme would be most > helpfull, but.... You won't find any data like that, you're on your own for troubleshooting. The circuit is usually fairly simple though, if you trace the pin for the fuel pump relay from the connector it'll probably go almost straight to the collector of a transistor with the emitter grounded. That transistor may be bad, they can be tested with the diode test function of a decent DMM or you can try just replacing it. Low power electronics usually do not fail in any visible way, you have to test the components electrically. They're dirt cheap at the U Pull It. Why go through the hassle of learning to repair, when a new one can be easily found and cheaply purchased? > They're dirt cheap at the U Pull It. > > Why go through the hassle of learning to repair, when a new one can be > easily found and cheaply purchased? Well the reason I do it is because I can, sure if you need the car running *now* just go buy another box, but if you wanna learn something and get an added sense of satisfaction, crack into it and attempt a repair. I get a kick out of doing things that few people are capable of doing. There's no good economic reason why I recently spent 3 hours repairing a 14 year old 17" CRT monitor, or replaced a dozen surface mount capacitors and scraped corrosion off the motherboard from an ancient Mac SE/30, but in both cases it was a success, and keeps some still useful if obsolete equipment out of the landfill. Well, fine, if that is your cuppa joe. But the OP seemed to be looking for an immediate solution. They are about five bucks at the U Pull It. > Well, fine, if that is your cuppa joe. > > But the OP seemed to be looking for an immediate solution. > > They are about five bucks at the U Pull It. Prices vary widely, they're around 40 bucks out here, but either way, dirt cheap compared to new. Over here they are also cheap. Just one small detail, you can hardly find them.... Here every volvo that more or less has 4 wheels is exported to Afrika. Spare parts are getting scarse for that reason. So if somebody could help me to send me a couple, i'll be most interested. Mr V? >> Well, fine, if that is your cuppa joe. >> [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Prices vary widely, they're around 40 bucks out here, but either way, dirt > cheap compared to new. I guess I'm spoiled, living in metro Portland, Oregon. There are several U Pull Its to go to, plus other "regular" wrecking yards, and one or two that specialize in Volvo. I have gone to U Pull It Damascus and paid five bucks or so for them, just to have a spare (for K-Jet). Portland is the West Coast Lair of the Volvo, given the plethora of Volvo driving hippies out here. Yeah, I am spoiled. > Over here they are also cheap. Just one small detail, you can hardly find > them.... [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> Prices vary widely, they're around 40 bucks out here, but either way, dirt >> cheap compared to new. www.erievovo.com Signature" Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new" -- Albert Einstein There is one more thing about it too:-) If people did like you do,try to learn and repair they would not be totally helpless when cars or other stuff fail to work. In the future your skills will be most wanted,promise,cause if the trend of today continue not anyone will know how to fix things,just replace them with overvalued new items with lower quality. So you have an advantage and in long term it is economical effective as well:-) >> They're dirt cheap at the U Pull It. >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > in both cases it was a success, and keeps some still useful if obsolete > equipment out of the landfill. |
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