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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / March 2008starter problem getting real expensive
I have a 1987 volvo 740 that developed a starting problem, I would turn the key and just get a loud click from the solenoid but the starter wouldnt go. Since it was the original starte,r I bought a rebuilt unit and installed it myself . w Well all was good for about 4 days then at the worst time possible, in the pouring rain, me with a headache and starving to death I got the dreaded turn the key and click symptom again. I played with it for 2 hours before giving up and calling for a tow. The garage that took the car diagnosed it as a bad starter and put in another one. Well........it worked for half a day. I got stuck in another parking lot and had to call the mechanic back. They towed the car back to the shop and have it now. They believe it is just another bum starter and will probably put in another one. Now if this solves the problem great, but I find it hard to believe that I can buy two bum starters in a row. Can it be something else???? I have a good battery, with clean terminals, and good voltage so it can't be that. It won't start in park or neutral so I doubt its that particular switch what ever it is called. My only idea is that it is the little green wire that goes to the solenoid. Not sure what it does. Any ideas here would really help. Thanks. > I have a 1987 volvo 740 that developed a starting problem, I would > turn the key and just get a loud click from the solenoid but the [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > the little green wire that goes to the solenoid. Not sure what it > does. Any ideas here would really help. Thanks. Are you buying new starters or rebuilds? I've had a dead rebuild before, but then I've had one last years too. It's pretty easy to diagnose and any auto parts store will test a starter for you. The little wire supplies voltage when you turn the key, it's what triggers the solenoid to turn the starter on. James, they were both rebuilts not new. I am getting a click from the solenoid on both of them. > James, they were both rebuilts not new. I am getting a click from > the solenoid on both of them. Monitor the voltage at the big terminal when someone turns the key. If it stays at roughly 12V when the solenoid clicks then the starter is bad. If it drops way low then you have a bad connection in the heavy red wire. Ok Thanks, I will try that. Other thing I just thought of i wonder if it is a bad battery to engine ground wire I will check that also. My bet it that its just two bad rebuilds in a row. but I will give it a go tommorrow with my voltmeter. > Ok Thanks, I will try that. Other thing I just thought of i wonder if > it is a bad battery to engine ground wire I will check that also. My > bet it that its just two bad rebuilds in a row. but I will give it a > go tommorrow with my voltmeter. I think it's the battery ground connection. >> Ok Thanks, I will try that. Other thing I just thought of i wonder if >> it is a bad battery to engine ground wire I will check that also. My >> bet it that its just two bad rebuilds in a row. but I will give it a >> go tommorrow with my voltmeter. > > I think it's the battery ground connection. If that's the case, the interior lights will dim or go out when the key is turned. >>>Ok Thanks, I will try that. Other thing I just thought of i wonder if >>>it is a bad battery to engine ground wire I will check that also. My [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > If that's the case, the interior lights will dim or go out when the key is > turned. Good point, although some dimming is normal. I'd look for severe dimming or the lights going out. > "inventor" <justsomeinven...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > Monitor the voltage at the big terminal when someone turns the key. If it > stays at roughly 12V when the solenoid clicks then the starter is bad. If it > drops way low then you have a bad connection in the heavy red wire. It was the heavy red wire. My mechanic said there was a huge voltage drop. It was corroded at the battery connector so he cut the cable and soldered on a new connector. Good call James. I just wish he had checked that earlier. Now I have two rebuild, perfectly fine starters, the original starter was probably just fine, a $300 bill plus $200 for car rental. Oh well at least its running again. >> "inventor" <justsomeinven...@gmail.com> wrote in message >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > starters, the original starter was probably just fine, a $300 bill > plus $200 for car rental. Oh well at least its running again. That stinks. The cable should have been the first thing the mechanic checked before condemning the original starter. > I have a 1987 volvo 740 that developed a starting problem, I would > turn the key and just get a loud click from the solenoid but the [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > the little green wire that goes to the solenoid. Not sure what it > does. Any ideas here would really help. Thanks. wait a minute, you said it won't start in park or neutral. There is a neutral safety switch the will only allow it to start in park and neutral, and there is an over ride I believe that is a push button to the right of the floor shift that can stick and has to be sprayed with soething like wd40 and picked at to make it pop up.If this has been pushed down though the key will not be able to come out of the key switch
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