>> My wife went to work n our 240. She came out at the end of the day and
>> it spun but wouldn't start. I went there and tried to start it with
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>If the fuel pump is getting power but isn't running, I'd say the problem is
>obvious.
>>> So far they have replaced the crankshaft sensor but now find that the
>>> external fuel pump is getting power and ground and doesn't run.
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>>
> So why would it run with the test equipment connected but not without?
Chuck,
As suggested by other replies:-
Presence or absence of connected diagnostic equipment notwithstanding,
if the main fuel pump is getting proper power (ground and +ve) properly
delivered to its input terminals when it ought to be getting power, but,
is not running, then the main fuel pump has an issue that means it needs
to be substituted, even if only temporarily, before any further
diagnostics can be carried out.
I have to confess to some bafflement as to why with the diagnostic
equipment and new battery connected, the pump runs (it's obviously
getting a 12v supply), but, with diagnostic stuff removed (pump
allegedly still getting a 12v supply when it should), it doesn't run,
that makes no sense at all.
Clutching at straws mode on
Did the garage reinstall your battery as well? Are all the fuses
properly seated and the ends clean, perhaps the new battery they tried
was managing somehow to get a bit more current to the pump during engine
cranking, enabling it to start and run, whereas your battery can't?
Clutching at straws mode off
Best wishes, Ken Phillips
Chuck Fiedler - 21 Mar 2008 17:58 GMT
>>>> So far they have replaced the crankshaft sensor but now find that the
>>>> external fuel pump is getting power and ground and doesn't run.
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>
>Best wishes, Ken Phillips
Ken, your bafflement is shared.
See my earlier post regarding the discovery of the shop manual
undocumented relay. Methinks we're on the right trail here.
I had previously checked all the fuses, especially the #6. I long ago
replaced those bloody ceramic units with Buss AGPs, glass fuses with
stainless (?) ends. End of the corrosion problems. BTW, I heard those
are no longer available. Go see your local auto store. I got some last
week.
I suspect a Bosch relay is a LOT cheaper than a genuwine Bosch fuel
pump.
Keep tuned to this station for further developments. Film at 11:00.
James Sweet - 22 Mar 2008 02:56 GMT
> I had previously checked all the fuses, especially the #6. I long ago
> replaced those bloody ceramic units with Buss AGPs, glass fuses with
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>
> Keep tuned to this station for further developments. Film at 11:00.
Relay is about 50 bucks, or free to resolder which is usually all it needs.
Fuel pump was around $260 last time I bought one.
James Sweet - 22 Mar 2008 02:55 GMT
> As suggested by other replies:-
> Presence or absence of connected diagnostic equipment notwithstanding, if
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> getting a 12v supply when it should), it doesn't run, that makes no sense
> at all.
I question whether the pump was actually recieving 12V *under load* or if
there was simply 12V measured at the wires to the pump with the pump
disconnected. Connect a car battery to a multimeter through a 1 megohm
resistor and you'll measure 12V, but apply any sort of load to it and the
voltage will drop to zero because of the high resistance.