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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / May 2008SRS light comes on - wipers and horn won't work
When I start my '90 740 Turbo, the SRS will stay lit. Perhaps coincidentally, the radio, wipers and horn will not work while the SRS light is lit. I've figured out that by jiggling the key in the ignition, the light will go off and that everything on the car works fine after that. Not a problem, right? Unfortunately, the guy inspecting my car considers this to be a problem. I've cleared the fault codes as well as reset the Service light that comes on upon starting (the service light still comes on), all to no avail. Someone a while back suggested my ignition switch as the culprit. Thoughts? >When I start my '90 740 Turbo, the SRS will stay lit. Perhaps >coincidentally, the radio, wipers and horn will not work while the SRS [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >Thoughts? And you didn't listen to that guy because..? Methinks he was on to something. > And you didn't listen to that guy because..? > > Methinks he was on to something. Just looking for alternate (read: simpler and cheaper) theories. In particular, ones that don't involve me dismantling my dash. Its always worth a try, right? >> And you didn't listen to that guy because..? >> [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >particular, ones that don't involve me dismantling my dash. Its >always worth a try, right? I'm guessing here but I *think* we're talking a disgusting amount ($~150) for the part and maybe an equal amount for a non-dealer mechanic to do the work. Do you have an independent mechanic who does Volvos? These ain't just any mechanics. Might want to let us know where you are and someone else here may know a knowledgible mechanic to use. >>> And you didn't listen to that guy because..? >>> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Might want to let us know where you are and someone else here may know > a knowledgible mechanic to use. How about a junkyard part? Cheap, I don't think it's very hard to replace. As I recall, the key lock portion is separate from the switch portion. >There is something that can be done about the traffic >By Frank Greve | McClatchy Newspapers [quoted text clipped - 101 lines] > * | > * Digg it >>>> And you didn't listen to that guy because..? >>>> [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >replace. As I recall, the key lock portion is separate from the switch >portion. Two thoughts: Not everyone is into going to junkyards and all that entails and then, presumably doing the repair themselves, although there is much to be said for, and saved by, doing this. Also, IIRC, most cars have a lock (the part the key operates) and the switch (electrical part that makes the car run) and they're seperable. Could be wrong in this instance. My advice remains to see a good mechanic with Volvo familiarity. <Lengthy news article snipped> Sorry for posting the news article. Human error. Sounds like the consensus is that its the ignition switch. Guess that's my next project. I'm in Austin, and there are three good shops here that I'd trust with my Volvo. However, I'm still going to try and replace it myself. Found a used ignition switch for about $45. I think I'm most freaked by installing the switch, which involves drilling out two bolts or cutting straight slots into the bolts for removal. Would this be necessary if I simply replace the switch? According to my '82-'88 manual, the two bolts hold both the switch as well as the key lock portion, so I'm guessing I have to remove both. Almost forgot to ask - is there a any sort of test or diagnostic I can run to see if the ignition switch is bad? >Sounds like the consensus is that its the ignition switch. Guess >that's my next project. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >manual, the two bolts hold both the switch as well as the key lock >portion, so I'm guessing I have to remove both. If you have a Haynes or other good manual and it says this is what's necessary, I'd buy it as fact. I seem to recall this being the case. If you slot-cut them, you can reuse them. If you drill them out (which I would be disinclined to do), you would need to buy two new ones. As for your second note, I don't know of any diagnostic test that will isolate this matter. I am inclined to think this is the most likely culprit and, if you can fix it for $45 and a little labor, it's certainly not wasted. You might check with Beasley Motors there in Austin to get a wrapped price for the whole job. I have had very good luck with them. Of course, they don't set parts prices but it's worth knowing what your sweat is worth. Never taken it to Beasley, but I've heard they are good sorts. Phoenix and Vol-Tech have done work for me, both with good results. Haynes does not mention having to cut slots in the bolts but Chilton does. Time to find a friend with a dremel tool. Thanks for your advice, it helped a great deal. >Never taken it to Beasley, but I've heard they are good sorts. >Phoenix and Vol-Tech have done work for me, both with good results. > >Haynes does not mention having to cut slots in the bolts but Chilton >does. Time to find a friend with a dremel tool. Thanks for your >advice, it helped a great deal. Not living in Austin (I'm in Dallas), I'm not familiar with Phoenix nor Vol-tech. Have ordered parts from Beasley since they were some other name I can't recall. They give a VCOA discount and were much cheaper, even with freight, than the Dallas folk. I see from the latest issue of Rolling that Vol-tech also gives a VCOA discount. Good luck and enjoy standing on your head. Oh yeah, wear goggles when you do this. Metal shavings in the eye are kinda painful (don't ask how I know). Chuck Fiedler Nothing but Volvo since 1974 >> When I start my '90 740 Turbo, the SRS will stay lit. Perhaps >> coincidentally, the radio, wipers and horn will not work while the SRS [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Methinks he was on to something. Agreed, this can turn into a serious issue. I'd second suspecting the ignition switch. |
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