> Unplug the connector on the temp sending unit on the drivers side of the
> block under the intake. If it is a single wire ground it, then remove the
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> case
> > the needle was stuck, doesn't seem to help.
Actually the sensor is on the cylinder head, right at the bottom,
slightly rearward of the middle on the intake side. It'll have 2 round
pins on the '93.
My brother's '90 740 Turbo had a dead fuel gauge just out of warranty,
and the problem with it was a dead diode inside the gauge itself. This
diode was one that connected the gauge to the power supply, I guess to
protect the gauge if the battery was connected backwards. At the time I
had no diode handy to fix it, so I just shorted the it out, and told him
not to connect his battery backwards! To make a long story short, 10
years later, he still has the car, the gauge still works, and I've not
gone back in and replaced that diode!

Signature
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.
NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
asdada - 09 May 2004 05:01 GMT
Mike ,
I have a intermittent (mostly off sometimes on) fuel guage on a '94 940.
How would you go about confirming if it the guage or the sensor in the fuel
tank?
TIA
Doug W,
Brampton
> > Unplug the connector on the temp sending unit on the drivers side of the
> > block under the intake. If it is a single wire ground it, then remove the
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> years later, he still has the car, the gauge still works, and I've not
> gone back in and replaced that diode!
Mike F - 10 May 2004 16:01 GMT
> Mike ,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Doug W,
> Brampton
I would locate the connector in the trunk that leads to the sender. 2
wires are for the pump (usually pink and black) and 2 are for the
gauge. If the problem is present, connect a resistor across the 2 wires
for the gauge, and see what/if the gauge registers. I'm not sure what
size resistor to use, I think 100 ohms would be a good start. If the
gauge now registers, then the sender is the problem. If not, then
either the wiring from the tank to gauge, or the gauge itself is the
problem. You can check the wires with an ohmmeter, leave your resistor
connected and check the resistance between the 2 wires that are the same
colour up at the cluster with the cluster disconnected and the ignition
off.

Signature
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.
NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)