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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / October 2004Fuel Injector Leaks, '86 240
Last year during cool weather I developed a leak (I think) where the fuel injector goes into the (manifold?) I never could quite see where the leak actually was but in my probing aroud I wiggled the injector around and the leak stopped. Now, a cold spell has hit us and I have a leak again. I have already tried turning the injector to see if the leak would stop, don't think it will. What do I need to replace? and how? My parts store said they have Bosch seals for about $1.20 ea. but also sell a "kit" for $4.50 each cylinder (I don't know what it could contain other than 2 seals) and the fuel injector which I am not sure I need cost about $60 as I recall from pricing them last year. Anyone have a similar experience? thanks -Anthony Memphis TN > Last year during cool weather I developed a leak (I think) where the fuel > injector goes into the (manifold?) I never could quite see where the leak [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > -Anthony > Memphis TN You haven't disclosed why you think you have leak? Is it stumbling the engine? smelling of unburnt gas? or then what? Dan 88 245 dl 240,000klms 87 244 dl 196,000klms >You haven't disclosed why you think you have leak? Is it stumbling the >engine? smelling of unburnt gas? or then what? > >Dan >88 245 dl 240,000klms >87 244 dl 196,000klms Actually, last year I was under the hood while jumping off another car, I thought I had been smelling fuel but assumes it was exhaust. I just happened to look at the injector where it goes into the (manifold?) and there was a pool of gas sitting there... This year, I smelled gas and there was indeed a leak in the same area... I have about decided it is actually the injector leaking... weird to me it stops leaking when warmed... Anthony Memphis TN > Last year during cool weather I developed a leak (I think) where the fuel > injector goes into the (manifold?) I never could quite see where the leak [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > will. > What do I need to replace? and how? My '71 1800E leaked gas where the neoprene hose that went from the gas manifold to the injectors was sealed. The factory installed clamps didn't work. They had to be cut off and replaced. I ended up experimenting with about a dozen different brands of neoprene hose and different hose clamps. The problem was sealing to the injectors. The seal to the manifold was easy. I ended up tightening the hose clamps so hard that they were extruding neoprene through the little screw thread holes in the stainless steel band. The gas pressure was high enough that sealing was a problem. It took constant surveillance and tightening to keep it sealed.  SignaturePardon my spam deterrent; send email to rhodyman@earthlink.net Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA, USA Owned '67,'68,'71,'74,'79,'81,'87,'93,'95 & '02 Volvos. The '67,'74,'79,'87,'95 and '02 through European Delivery. http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/volvo.html I think the 240 does not have this problem as the injectors appear to be connected directly to the fuel rail and then into the manifold with seals at both ends... Mine could be the injector itself leaking, the top seal, bottom seal or combination. I have just about decided to replace the injector and ALL 8 injector seals as I have heard if you disturb them they will leak Anthony Memphis TN > I think the 240 does not have this problem as the injectors appear to be > connected directly to the fuel rail and then into the manifold with seals at > both ends... I may have used the wrong term. The injectors had neoprene tubing fastened to the top. This tubing connected to a metal tube that was part of a loop of metal tubing (fuel rail or manifold) that circulated the fuel from the fuel pump to all injectors and back to a pressure relief valve that dumped it back into the fuel tank. The leaks were between the injectors and the neoprene tubing that was fastened to the injectors at the factory with a heavy crimp type clamp. I had to grind off the factory clamp to replace the tubing. SignaturePardon my spam deterrent; send email to rhodyman@earthlink.net Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA, USA Owned '67,'68,'71,'74,'79,'81,'87,'93,'95 & '02 Volvos. The '67,'74,'79,'87,'95 and '02 through European Delivery. http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/volvo.html Stephen, As you've discovered, the high pressure fuel hose from the fuel rail to the injector, along with the injector seals, are regular wear/replace items. It seems the heat in those older engines are a little harsher. On my '70 1800E, these items get replaced every 2 years, I think 3 years is pushing it. Everyone I know replaced the hose the same way you did - cut/grind the old factory crimp off, install new 5mm high pressure fuel hose, and a heater hose clamp on both ends. You mention tightening so hard that the hose extruded through the clamp threads. Many others with our same model have recommended a different style of hose clamp, as they discovered that your style shortened the life expectancy of the hose, because it actually slices into the rubber, and becomes the pinpoint location of a premature leak. For a picture of the recommended type of clamp, look at Figure 2 in this link. Some people say they have a hard time finding this type, or it costs more, but I've always found them at my local pepboys, autozone, etc. http://www.roberts.ezpublishing.com/croberts/hose.htm > > I think the 240 does not have this problem as the injectors appear to be > > connected directly to the fuel rail and then into the manifold with seals at [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > injectors at the factory with a heavy crimp type clamp. I had to grind > off the factory clamp to replace the tubing. > Last year during cool weather I developed a leak (I think) where the fuel > injector goes into the (manifold?) I never could quite see where the leak [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > -Anthony > Memphis TN You can get replacement seals for the tops of the injectors where they seat into the fuel rail. Remove the two 6mm screws (10mm wrench) from the brackets on the manifold. Remove the slide on clips from the injectors. Replace the top seals. Shake out the fuel rail to minimize the gas in the rail. Lube the seals with petroleum jelly and install into the fuel rail. Install the clips. Lube the tip seals and reinstall the rail and injectors back into the manifold as an assembly. Replace the two screws holding the fuel rail in place. Keep the ground wires in their original positions at opposite ends of the rail. IIRC the wires at the back are electrical grounds and the one at the front is a signal ground. Bob SignatureThe goal of driving is to miss the maximum possible number of objects. My big question is can the injector itself leak and if so why is it only leaking cold? Hot there is no leak. Does this sound like a leaking injector or seal? It's possible that it is the injector, but more likely that the seal is expanding and contracting under temperature change and allowing a leak when contracted/cold. > My big question is can the injector itself leak and if so why is it only > leaking cold? Hot there is no leak. Does this sound like a leaking injector or > seal? > It's possible that it is the injector, but more likely that the seal is > expanding and contracting under temperature change and allowing a leak when [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >>seal? maybe the injector is being told how much gas to give due to temperature and the appropriate sensor supposedly telling the computer what the true temperature is, is/has failing/failed? On top of seals being in need of replacement, why not re & re fuel rails, replace all o-rings /seals and observe the engine's performance then decide if any/all injectors are really necessary? I think the injectors are very long lasting in these Volvo car models, Do you agree fellow posters? If a coil had a weaker than normal output could that weaken the spark enough to cause rough idle and bad emissions from the tail pipe? I had exactly that with a GM car replaced the 6 pack distributor-less style coils and everything went back to normal (for a GM LOL)It still hesitates on accelerating, so typical of the GM Brand, and oddly enough it begins this phase shortly after any warranty would cover the repairs for such problems. I guess they know when to have parts begin to expire and that way they can pay out less warranty claims. There is madness in their methods? Well I tink so. LOL |
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