I am getting a 97 reg with 68,000 miles.
I have no guarantee how often the oil has been changed previously, but
car is being purchase from a reliable source.
Would there be any advantage in giving it a good hard run on motorway
and then changing the engine oil and filter, or would it be better to
change the oil and filter first, then give a hard run and then again
change oil and filter.
Any recommended grades of oil for the procedure?
Jeff
Pm - 19 Jan 2005 08:37 GMT
Personally I would change oil, filter and coolant, then give it a good long
but easy run. Then change them again. You don't know what is in the oil
now, or if the filter is ok. I would also get new air and fuel filters.
Paul
>I am getting a 97 reg with 68,000 miles.
>
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> Jeff
TEF - 19 Jan 2005 19:17 GMT
Have owned an '87 740 turbo wagon (estate) since new and have always used
synthetic oil. If your car turns out to be in good shape, I would go with
sythetic oil to ensure that the turbo bearings continue to work without
problem. While the B-23 engine is really fine, turbo bearings seem to be
the item that can go, if not properly oiled.
Good luck, I hope your 740 turns out to be a trouble free as mine. It's a
simple car that seems to be well made.
> Personally I would change oil, filter and coolant, then give it a good long
> but easy run. Then change them again. You don't know what is in the oil
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> >
> > Jeff
Steve n Holly - 19 Jan 2005 21:49 GMT
Change it, drive it fast for an hour or two, then pour a liter/quart of ATF
in the oil, drive easy for 1/2 hour and have it changed while it's very
warm.
I used to stick my finger in the oil fill hole, and reach around--if there
was a 'lot' of gunk I would remove the valve cover and clean out as much
gunk, including digging out any gunk in the oil galleries that I could
reach, and if they were badly gunked up I would use a wire hanger and press
down in there to get as much gunk either pulled up (better) or pushed down
( danger will Robinson!) Pressing gunk down risks clogging up the gallery,
try not to do that if there is heavy gunk.
I seized a engine using 'motor flush' since then--mid 70's--I now use
transmission fluid to do the job--loosen up gunk--***BUT** in beat engines
the gunk in the bearings etc is critical--wash it away and you might have a
very noisy engine...
So my advice is do the finger test, also look on the dip stick--it should
not be much discolored along it's length--obviously there will be some, but
if it's all black where the dipstick is covered by oil you have a badly
maintained car--Most Volvos in the USA will pass these tests more or
less--my experience is from years of driving $200 American cars as a kid.
> I am getting a 97 reg with 68,000 miles.
>
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>
> Jeff
Peter K L Milnes - 20 Jan 2005 00:40 GMT
I would have thought that it was a 940 if it was '97 registration. Surely
you mean an '87 reg.
Cheers, Peter.
>I am getting a 97 reg with 68,000 miles.
>
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> Jeff
Edward Milan - 20 Jan 2005 09:17 GMT
Many thanks for comments, It is a 940, and a replacement for current
940 2.0 which has a worn out no. 1 cylinder.
>I would have thought that it was a 940 if it was '97 registration. Surely
>you mean an '87 reg.
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>> Jeff