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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / June 20051990 760 Turbo wagon dies at random!
This is going to sound like a repeat of an earlier situation with another car. We have a 1990 760 Turbo (intercooler) wagon with 147k miles. The vehicle will die at random, stop lights, freeway, city streets, etc. It will usually start up once I coast to a stop, or it will take a minute or so before it starts. It can go months before it dies, and then it may die every day for a week or so. I?ve had 3 different mechanics try to solve the mystery. So far, we have replaced: System relay Air Mass Meter Spark Plugs Cap & Rotor Plug Wires Speed sensor Power Amp Ignition TB Gasket (during cleaning I?m assuming) No luck with fixing the problem so far. Want to take a crack at it? I just checked the fault codes and they read 2-3-2 & 3-1-1. Thanks for the help! 2-3-2 suggests fuel supply anomaly and 3-1-1 suggests Speedometer signal absent. It is possibly curable by thoroughly cleaning the inlet tract (from filter to manifold including Idle Air Control Valve). This is a two yearly maintenance job. Also check all connections to and from ECU and ICU plus all sensors that feed to the ECU/ICU. Cheers, Peter. > This is going to sound like a repeat of an earlier situation with > another car. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Thanks for the help! My volvo had a faulty car alarm that caused the car to cut ou when you were driving it. > My volvo had a faulty car alarm that caused the car to cut ou > when you were > driving it. Thanks for the input! No alarm system is the Volvo, so I can rule that out. Wild guess, based on the lack of pattern and the random amount of time before it restarts - crank angle sensor (or whatever the Hall effect device is called in the 1990 765T). It is infamous for doing that and being the very devil to catch in the act. One clue - if the tach kicks when you try to restart but the engine doesn't fire, it isn't the Hall effect dealie or anything in the ignition. Has the fuel pump relay been resoldered or replaced yet? Mike > This is going to sound like a repeat of an earlier situation with > another car. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Thanks for the help! I had a hot-start/run problem in my 1989 760 turbo that proved to be the "charge air overpressure switch". Basically, it's a vacuum switch that cuts power to the fuel pumps if your turbo is blowing too much boost. It's the first powered link in the fuel system after the ignition switch, and if it's faulty it's a real bugger to diagnose. I just bypassed it with two alligator clips and a scrap of wire, and the car starts and runs fine now. IPD doesn't sell it, and my local Volvo dealer was no help in trying to order one. The Haynes manual (which only covers up through '88, I believe) had the part living up under the dash around the brake pedal cluster, but by my 1989, the Volvo engineers had moved it to a strap on the coolant overflow tank under the hood. I suspect it was the dramatic heat cycles that killed it. Best of luck! --Dale > Wild guess, based on the lack of pattern and the random amount of time > before it restarts - crank angle sensor (or whatever the Hall effect device [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > > > Thanks for the help! http://www.autoforumz.com/Volvo-1990-760-Turbo-wagon-dies-random-ftopict111897.html > > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: > > http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=525413 > This is going to sound like a repeat of an earlier situation > with another car. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Thanks for the help! I?ll try cleaning the inlet tract this weekend! As for the fuel pump relay, I don?t think that has ever been changed. Where is this located? The Volvo just quit on me this morning at a stop light. Just died. It did start on the second try. Total time that elapsed was about 20 seconds. No check engine fault this time. I had been on the road for about 35 minutes when it happened. The fuel pump relay on your 760 is behind the passenger side kick panel on the side of the Centre Console. It sits on the relay panel which is mounted vertically. The Fuel pump relay is The one on the top row between the top of the double relay (headlights) and the foremost relay (Central Locking system). Cheers, Peter. > > This is going to sound like a repeat of an earlier situation > > with another car. [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > seconds. No check engine fault this time. I had been on the road for > about 35 minutes when it happened. > As for the fuel pump relay, I don't think that has ever been changed. > Where is this located? If it is the same location as my '85, it is in the center console. Remove the ash tray and ash tray mount, exposing the fuses. The relay is on the far left side (as you sit in the car); a rectangular white plug-in module in the second row back (toward the nose of the car). They are notorious for intermittent solder connections in the circuit board inside. Mike Sorry Mike but this is a 1990 (post facelift) model. The fuses are in the end of the dashboard and cannot be accessed if the driver's door is closed and the relays have their own special place as I have already described to the gentleman. Cheers, Peter. >> As for the fuel pump relay, I don't think that has ever been changed. >> Where is this located? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Mike > Sorry Mike but this is a 1990 (post facelift) model. The fuses are in the > end of the dashboard and cannot be accessed if the driver's door is closed > and the relays have their own special place as I have already described to > the gentleman. > > Cheers, Peter. Thanks for the info, Peter! Next time I'll know (if I don't forget between now and then.) Mike "michaeltnull" wrote: > > Sorry Mike but this is a 1990 (post facelift) model. The > fuses are in the [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Mike Thanks for the help! I replaced the Fuel Pump Relay this evening. When I pulled the plastic covering off the old one, I did notice a small crack in one solder joint. We shall see if that fixes the problem. Stroller (aka Brian) >"michaeltnull" wrote: > > > Sorry Mike but this is a 1990 (post facelift) model. The [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > >Stroller (aka Brian) Something like this? http://www.viatrack.ca/Misc/badcon2.jpg Regards, Boris Mohar Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca DOES SILVER SOLDER HELP ? > Sorry Mike but this is a 1990 (post facelift) model. The fuses are in the > end of the dashboard and cannot be accessed if the driver's door is closed [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> >> Mike Sorry John but it doesn't as it is harder than electricians solder and is more affected by vibration. Cheers, Peter. > DOES SILVER SOLDER HELP ? >> Sorry Mike but this is a 1990 (post facelift) model. The fuses are in the [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >>> >>> Mike > This is going to sound like a repeat of an earlier situation > with another car. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Thanks for the help! I also have a 1990 760 Turbo wagon with the exact same problem. Mine has 99.6K miles on it. It was serviced by a dealer until two years ago when I bought the car. This morning, running at 30 mph, the engine died. I put it into neutral and tried to restart as I was rolling but it just kept cranking. I was able to pull to the side of the road and stop. After 10 seconds, I cranked it and it started. Another problem, which I thought might be related, is that you have to crank the engine for about five seconds before it starts. However, it you crank it for two seconds, then wait two seconds, it will start immediately. I am going to pull the diagnostic codes now and I’ll let you know if they are the same ones you got. Regards, Jim O’Connell bad fuel pump relay??? > This is going to sound like a repeat of an earlier situation > with another car. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Thanks for the help! I recently had the same issue with random stalling in my 1999 Volvo S70 Turbo w/55,000 mi. I went to the Volvo dealership parts dept. and bought a new fuel filter [$45], fuel pump relay[$85], and fuel injection relay[$36]. I took the parts to Midas for installation and also had a throttle body cleaning[$79] done. Not only did it solve the problem, but I’m getting much better gas mileage and the car accelerates much much better. -Datakix > > This is going to sound like a repeat of an earlier situation > > with another car. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > > > Thanks for the help! I don't see fuel pump relay on there, that's the most common cause of these just stalling, unless the tach needle drops like a rock in which case it's ignition related. The relay has a circuit board inside that can be resoldered, or you can replace it but if you know someone who can solder that's a lot cheaper. |
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