>Hi "b4_ford",
>
>Regarding your fuses, I hope you haven't yet started to take the centre
>console apart ......... In my '74 142 & 145, the fuses were located on the
>side panel just ahead of the driver's door (Left-hand front door) under a
>plastic cover. [ ... ]
Must be one of the things they moved with the '73 model; in my '72 145,
they're behind the console.
>Gary's advice about dealing with the fuses and fuse holders is right on.
>These repeatedly give trouble in the 140/240 series. In addition to doing
>Gary's thing, sometimes at the roadside in the dead of night.............
Open console/remove side panel cover, go across the block giving each
fuse a 1/4 twist back and forth a couple of times, replace console/cover,
resume driving...
> I
>have finally resorted to scrapping all the fuses with grey metal ends,
>replacing them the brass/copper ended type. The snag is Volvo dealers don't
>stock the latter type. I found that suppliers of VW parts do, and no doubt
>other Auto Supply outfits.
[ ... ]
Now that's a good thing--I wasn't aware that they were available with
brass or copper ends. The tin plated ones corrode way too easily. I'll
have to find some and swap mine out.
Gary

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Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net
Did you hear about the people caught falsely advertising
Star Wars memorabilia?
They were charged with Bait and Sith.
brackenburn - 29 May 2005 18:08 GMT
"Must be one of the things they moved with the '73 model; in my '72 145,
they're behind the console."
Hi Gary,
You might be interested in this (from the "Green Book", factory service
manual for 1967 140 series):
**The fuses are grouped in a fuse box attached to a bracket mounted on the
heater element below the dashboard.**
So, right from the start (1967), the location was like your 1972; but the
1974 Green Book for the 140 series says:
** The fuses are in a fusebox, which is located next to the left fresh air
vent.**
I sure miss that "fresh air vent" in my '93 245 Classic!!
Andy I.
Mike F - 30 May 2005 15:01 GMT
The fuses moved starting with the '73 models from a nice protected place
where corrosion problems were minimal to a spot where the corrosion
problems were almost maximized (under the hood would have been worse).
I had a similar problem to the original poster in my '71 - the
alternator was working but the amp light would stay on, the fuel and
temp gauge wouldn't work when the car was cold - after warmup all was
fine. The problem turned out to be corrosion at the connector between
the wiring harness and dash cluster.

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Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)