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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / September 2005New California smog for older Volvo
I have a 1984 240 GL wagon with 140K original miles that past the smog check two years ago without problems. Now it needs it again but I understand the new California smog check requirement is tougher this year and, in particular, on older cars. My Sond service light came on a few months ago so now I need to reset it, but should I also replace the O2 sensor too, wagon runs pretty good for an 84. I was wondering what you guys with older Volvos need to do to past the recent California smog check. >I have a 1984 240 GL wagon with 140K original miles that past the smog check >two years ago without problems. Now it needs it again but I understand the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >wagon runs pretty good for an 84. I was wondering what you guys with older >Volvos need to do to past the recent California smog check. Find a friendly test center and ask them if they would do a pre-test on it (just meter it "unofficially") and let them tell you _IF_ it would pass, and if not, how much it would cost to fix. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate" >>I have a 1984 240 GL wagon with 140K original miles that past the smog check >>two years ago without problems. Now it needs it again but I understand the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate > "Shelby" & "Kate" Been there, done that. My last test was February. It passed after some creative plumbing re the ICU. It's always been borderline, usually within a point or two of max on NoX. Many smog stations will do a pre-test for a nominal fee. My '83 245 has been through several tests in the 9 years I've owned it. First mistake was *not* getting a pre-test. It scored a GP (gross polluter) which now forces me to go to a test only station. The pre-test guy may not be thorough (the test only place will be hard core) so some key points to watch for: Be sure they check the gas cap (or buy a new one.) I had a perfectly good passing score fail (and they charge you anyway, btw) because of a leaky cap. Be sure the vacuum lines and heat riser hoses are connected and in good shape. (I got nicked once because the heat riser hose had slipped off. Nope, they don't let you put it on, they fail you and take your money... thank you, come again.) Once, after a passing pre-test, drove 5 minutes to the test only place. The test only guy noticed the vacuum line to the (Ignition Control Unit?) was off. Of course it will pass with that unplugged. He hooked it up (apparently they are allowed to reattach vacuum lines... wtf?) and the motor pings to beat heck... and fails. Be sure it passes pre-test with reasonable margins. If you're within .02% of max on NoX, you can bet it will fail the real test. (no, all the machines are not calibrated exactly the same.) ymmv... > Been there, done that. My last test was February. It passed after some > creative plumbing re the ICU. It's always been borderline, usually [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > machines are not calibrated exactly the same.) > ymmv... Further to the bottom part of this post, talking about the vacuum line to the ignition control unit... That vacuum line advances the timing at part load a lot, in an attempt to improve fuel economy. This way the engine is always running at the ragged edge of ping, which is great for NOx formation (i.e., not good). Disconnecting this hose will not harm fuel economy enough to be noticeable, but will reduce ping and NOx formation. Ironically, smog centers don't like you to do this, even though it reduces emissions! I put a ball bearing into the end of the hose before pushing it back onto the vacuum advance on the ignition control unit, so it doesn't look like anything needs to be reconnected - just make sure the ball fits tightly, if vacuum gets in there and can't get out, then your timing will be so far advanced it won't run well. The hose goes under the engine by the crankshaft pulley, so there's lots of ways to inventively block this vacuum connection.  SignatureMike F. Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont. Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.) >Further to the bottom part of this post, talking about the vacuum line >to the ignition control unit... [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >crankshaft pulley, so there's lots of ways to inventively block this >vacuum connection. Talking about the B23F and the B230F motors, the vac sensor in the ECU was used from 1982 through 1988 on the Volvo/Chrysler ignition system. It was evidently eliminated on the 1989 and later models with the EZ-116K sustem. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate" > Talking about the B23F and the B230F motors, the vac sensor in the ECU > was used from 1982 through 1988 on the Volvo/Chrysler ignition system. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate > "Shelby" & "Kate" You know, when I started typing I was going to mention that only applies to 240s with the Chrysler type ignition, only non turbos. It's easy to recognize by the ignition control unit mounted on the windshield washer bottle support. Note this ignition was never used in the 7 series. SignatureMike F. Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont. Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.) >> Talking about the B23F and the B230F motors, the vac sensor in the ECU >> was used from 1982 through 1988 on the Volvo/Chrysler ignition system. >> It was evidently eliminated on the 1989 and later models with the >> EZ-116K sustem. >You know, when I started typing I was going to mention that only applies >to 240s with the Chrysler type ignition, only non turbos. It's easy to >recognize by the ignition control unit mounted on the windshield washer >bottle support. Note this ignition was never used in the 7 series. Don't be too impressed by my post. I had to look it up in Bentley's to figure out that I don't have it... Glad, too.. one less vac leak to hunt down! Speaking of vac leaks, I finally got a Mityvac! What a handy tool. I hooked it up to just about every vac line in the 240 just to rule out as many faults as I could find. One cool use of the tool is that you can disconnect both ends of a vac line, use the included plugs to close off one end, then apply vacuum at the other and see if the line itself is leaking. Speaking of vacuum, the line from the motor to the uinterior for the various vacuum motors that control the air flaps- it seems that this system does not hold vacuum at all. Is that correct? Neither Bentley nor Haynes has any info on the system worth repeating here. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate" >I have a 1984 240 GL wagon with 140K original miles that past the smog >check two years ago without problems. Now it needs it again but I [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >sensor too, wagon runs pretty good for an 84. I was wondering what you guys >with older Volvos need to do to past the recent California smog check. I think Volvo must be in a pissing match with several of the states. Here in Nevada, "older" Volvos (such as my wife's '98 V70XC) will not pass. The problem is well known, but neither Volvo nor Nevada DMV wants to give in. The drill: Take your car to your favorite smog check person and fail the test. Take the car and the documents to the local DMV office. In a larger town, there is a field testing station attached and the bright guys there mark "pass" on your paperwork and advise DMV Central that you're really a good person who's caught in the middle. In Nevada, it's all done via the Internet and by the time I get home, the DMV is ready to accept my submission and issue the new decal. A waste of time, but it's only once a year. bob noble Reno, NV USA |
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