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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / September 2005High idle on 340
Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since 400 when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle is adjust at min. How can I adjust mixture? thanks > Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since 400 > when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > thanks Warped base of carb. I'll put money (and lots of it) on that being your problem. Tim.. I have just tighened screws of the carb to base and it improves. So you are right. Thanks. What about adjust mixture? > > Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since 400 > > when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle is [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Tim.. Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even more than it is. This is a very common issue with the Solex and Weber carbs, cost cutting by Renault is my guess. At the base of the carb is a 1/2 inch thick (or thereabouts) gasket that was supposedly designed to get around the carb base bowing, it was never particularly successful. This gasket costs something stupid like £80 and must be replaced each time the carb is removed. If the problem returns (and I hate to be the forbearer of bad tidings) but it could well do so then retightening the bolts is likely to make the matter worse. You may get away with a replacement gasket, it depends on how badly warped the carb base is. The carb base is already on the thin side which does not help the bowing issue so having the bottom of the base milled is also likely only to be a temporary fix (and you will still need a new base gasket. Unless someone knows of a fix (PLEASE LET ME KNOW) you mare heading for a replacement carb. A possible alternative is to get a carb AND inlet manifold TOGETHER from a breakers like CP Motors 01827 331 402, NorthWest Motor TRading 01942 322 880 or Braydon Motors 0208 985 2266, there are probably others but these guys specialise in breaking up Volvos (CP Motors I found out recently also do servicing). Cricial that the carb and manifold are NOT seperated and then all you will need is a manifold to block gasket which will set you back around a tenner. If you try and seal the carb base with some sort of gunge I was told by a Volvo techie that this should be an absolute last resort only job as the petrol vapoyr usually breaks down whatever sealer you yse and bits of the sealer end up inside the carbs jets. We went down the replacement manifold/carb route and with a manifold and carb from NWMotor Trading for about £80 all up. It came of a good running 1.7 but even that is after 4 years presenting the same problem. We have come to live with it. Andy >I have just tighened screws of the carb to base and it improves. So you are > right. Thanks. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >> >> Tim.. > Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even more > than it is. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > then all you will need is a manifold to block gasket which will set you > back around a tenner. Hi all, Further to my previous post, and Andy's lengthy reply, it is possible to use the carb and manifold from a Renault 1.7 from either the R19 or 21 with some modication. You need the 1.7 energy engine though, which has a much better twin barrel Weber carb. It will need re-routing of vacuum pipes, and some blanking off for it to work though, but once fitted and working is warpy-base free. Tim.. Thanks at all for yours advices, they are very interestings and useful. > > Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even more > > than it is. [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > Tim.. > Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even more > than it is. [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > Andy Hi all, Further to my previous post, and Andy's lengthy reply, it is possible to use the carb and manifold from a Renault 1.7 from either the R19 or 21 with some modication. You need the 1.7 energy engine though, which has a much better twin barrel Weber carb. It will need re-routing of vacuum pipes, and some blanking off for it to work though, but once fitted and working is warpy-base free. Tim.. We have the Weber carb. Usually Weber are a good name in carbs. The ones fitted to the 1.7 volvo/Renaylt engine has this weakness. Pity cos the engine (107k miles) goes like a steam train. Andy >> Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even >> more than it is. [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] > > Tim.. "Tim \(remove obvious\)" <the.farm@nospamthanks.btinternet.com> wrote: >> This is a very common issue with the Solex and Weber carbs, cost cutting >> by Renault is my guess. At the base of the carb is a 1/2 inch thick (or >> thereabouts) gasket that was supposedly designed to get around the carb >> base bowing, it was never particularly successful. This gasket costs >> something stupid like £80 and must be replaced each time the carb is >> removed. mind you, I have not worked on these specific carbs but do have some Solex experience. Is it actually a gasket, or is it a hard, lastic spacer. usually the "thick" gaskets are a heat speacer made to insulate the carbh from teh heat of the intake manifold when the car is turned off after a hot drive. If that is the case, I would find some gasket material to make gaskets for both sides. Another alternative- thoroughly clean the carb base and manifold. Wrap the bottom of the carb in some stretchy plastic or shrink wrap and do the same on the intake manifold. Use some JB Weld, put a thin coat on the gasket and assemble with the least amount of torque possible. Wait until it hardens, then disassemble, remove the plastic wrap, and reassemble. Are there no gas-resistant sealnts? I seem to rmember some epoxy made to seal gas tanks and such, or even use something like Kreem or other tank liner material to build up a gasket to form fit the warpage. Just brainstorming... maybe more the later than the former.... __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate" Storming Brains are good. You are probably right about it being a heat insulant (as well) but Volvo told me it was there because of the bowing carb base issues. I do not actually remember there being a paper thin gasket on each side of the thick thingy, there may have been it is just that I can not remember. I do remember putting a straight edge across the carb base and noticing it bow upwards in the centre. The carb base has 4 fixing bolts (studs/nuts) one on each corner and either the base of the carb needed to be thicker ot it needed another 2 fixing studs in the middle to help stop the bowing.. It seems that the more the 4 corner bolts are tightened the greater the chance of the carb base bowing. I like the idea of making and trying a thicker paper/thin card gasket and fit this between the thick spacer and the carb base, it could just work. WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO LOOSE. I spoke at length with people about using some form of liquid gasket including a techi who builds F1 racing engines and to a core they were NOT in favour for bits being effected by the petrol vapour and getting stuck somewhere inside the carb/jet etc. We also discussed having the carb base skimmed but keeping swarf out of the carb was close to an impossibility so would have needed a complete carm strip and clean, and for what, at best a temporily flat but even weaker carb base. Andy > "Tim \(remove obvious\)" <the.farm@nospamthanks.btinternet.com> wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate > "Shelby" & "Kate" >Storming Brains are good. > >I spoke at length with people about using some form of liquid gasket >including a techi who builds F1 racing engines and to a core they were NOT >in favour for bits being effected by the petrol vapour and getting stuck >somewhere inside the carb/jet etc. How about this: make a thin metal gasket to match the outside perimeter of the carb. Run a thin bead of JB Weld along the base of the carb- mostly near the center where it is bowed up, then place the carb on the gasket on a sheet of glass so that the JB Weld fills the gap between the metal gasket and the base of the carb. In essence, you are making a new carb base a few tenths thick, but not making the carb any taller than it has to be. >We also discussed having the carb base skimmed but keeping swarf out of the >carb was close to an impossibility so would have needed a complete carm >strip and clean, and for what, at best a temporily flat but even weaker carb >base. I agree. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate" On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 19:59:46 +0000 (UTC), "Tim \(remove obvious\)" <the.NOfarmSPAM@NObtinternetSPAM.com> wrote: >> Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since 400 >> when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle is [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >problem. >Tim.. I had an opel kadett long time ago. Wasn't running well. I wanted to look in the carb, lifted the airfilter and the whole carb came with it! Was standing completely loose! Pi
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