> In cold weather now it takes about 10 to 15 seconds when I turn the ignition
> key to ON for the instrument panel gauge lights to all light up. Once this
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Thanks, Tom
It's gotta be an electrical problem, try wiggling the ignition switch,
they've been known to go bad occasionally.
Randy G. - 10 Dec 2005 05:12 GMT
>> In cold weather now it takes about 10 to 15 seconds when I turn the ignition
>> key to ON for the instrument panel gauge lights to all light up. Once this
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>It's gotta be an electrical problem, try wiggling the ignition switch,
>they've been known to go bad occasionally.
That's my first guess as well based on teh smptoms, but if it doesn't
work...
...disconnect, clean, and reinstall the battery cables at both ends.
...Check the battery voltage before ignition is turned on, after it is
turned on, while it is cranking, and after it starts.
....remove, clean and replace the fuses. A piece of scotchbrite works
well. Clean the fuses AND the tabs where they connect in teh fuse box.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
> In cold weather now it takes about 10 to 15 seconds when I turn the
> ignition key to ON for the instrument panel gauge lights to all light up.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Thanks, Tom
That's an excellent description of the symptoms I got when my '85 765T
ignition switch was failing. It got worse over a period of a couple months
until I got up the energy to change it. When warm it worked reliably. (You
could pre-warm the switch with a hair dryer, I suppose, to confirm that is
the problem. But I think it's a safe bet.)
The switch is easy to replace (up to an hour, if you work as slowly as I do,
but nothing frustrating) and is available aftermarket for under $100 US from
several sources - I went to IPD at www.ipdusa.com Only the electrical part
is replaced; you keep the lock part in place. IIRC a Phillips screwdriver
does it all.
Mike