Hello:
I decided to start a new thread on this. I'd indicated an issue with
my 1993 240 DL Wagon and that I had tested the AMM.
A few respondents indicated that the ONLY way to test was to replace
it with a known good or new unit--and on that I must respectfully
disagree. If an AMM does not pass the tests below, chances are it
must be replaced.
I'll outline the procedure for testing an AMM below--but do keep in
mind this generally relates to those on 240's built between 1988 and
1993.
I base this on the Hayne's Manual, Bentley manual and also years of
experience with Volvos--and an inquiring mind.
___________________________________________________________
Scope of Test: Test is performed without removing AMM
Tools required: Hand and fingers to remove plug from AMM, a basic VOM
(Volt Ohmmeter-- digital (DVOM) or otherwise.
Note: this test is only valid for the following LH injection systems:
LH 2.0. 2.2 and 2.4
We shall be testing the following:
Platinum heated wire
Idle mixture pot (potentiometer)
Burn-off function
_________________________
Begin test:
With ignition off, disconnect connector from AMM.
On LH 2.0 systems connect an Ohmmeter between terminals 6 and 7 on the
AMM.
On LH 2.2 and 2.4 connect between terminals 2 and 3.
At ambient temperature (in other words, not in my garage in January)
the AMM platinum wire resistance should be:
LH 2.0 or 2.2: 3.5 to 4 Ohms
LH 2.4 : 2.5 to 4 Ohms
Step Two:
Idle Mixture Pot...
LH 2.0 Connect DVOM to terminals 6 and 12 on the AMM
LH 2.2 Connect to terminals 2 and 6
Compare ranges, but it should be within 0 to 1,000 Ohms
If not within those specs the AMM is bad and needs replacement.
Step Three:
Burn-off function
This is basically what keeps the platinum wire on tha AMM clean after
the engine is running.
In this case--and for this test-- the engine must be running. Pull
back the rubber boot on the AMM connector.
Connect a VOM (voltmeter) between terminal 4 on the AMM and ground.
Run engine to 2400 or 2500 RPM, let it get back to an easy idle and
then shut down.
Wait for 3 to 5 seconds and then check voltage. The voltmeter should
show at least some sort of voltage for a second or so.
If not the AMM is likely kissed and should be replaced.
_____________________________
End of test procedure
I'd be grateful if anyone can offer better testing procedures but have
not found one yet.
Regards,
Doc
James Sweet - 20 Dec 2005 03:23 GMT
> Hello:
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> disagree. If an AMM does not pass the tests below, chances are it
> must be replaced.
But what you're missing is that the AMM can (and in my experience often
does) pass that test with flying colors yet still fails to work
correctly in the car. You can check it with an ohm meter to see if it's
bad, but you can't check to see if it's good, hence it's easier to just
swap it out with a known working one rather than chase your tail trying
to track down a problem that actually lies in the "tested good" AMM.
Randy G. - 20 Dec 2005 04:10 GMT
>Hello:
>
[quoted text clipped - 87 lines]
>I'd be grateful if anyone can offer better testing procedures but have
>not found one yet.
I had been through the same thing, more or less. Mine does not have
the adjustable pot like some models (or at least to say, it has the
little tiny sealed spot that is not meant to be adjusted like some
other models AFAIK... Anyway...
On mine, the only OBD code set was an ocassional "bad/missing signal
to/from AMM." If I unplugged the AMM it would go into the default limp
mode and set the bad AMM code.
The burn-off test was good and the wire resistance test was good as
well. Still, the car ran like crap- not in limp mode, but
undriveable. Poor throttle response, rough idle, etc.
Replaced it with a used AMM and it INSTANTLY ran great.
So, if it fails the above tests, then yes, it is bad. But if it passes
the above tests it does not mean that it is good.
YMMV
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"