'92 240 Wheel bearings

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sean.m.cunningham@gmail.com - 06 Jan 2006 02:38 GMT

Hello,

I plan on replacing the front wheel bearings on a 240 GL soon. I have
the Chilton's manual, but it's not too helpful. I have a couple of
questions if anyone can help:

What does the bearing ride on? Directly on the spindle, or is there
some type of replaceable surface I should know about and inspect?

The book says special tools are required, but the only thing special
mentioned is a drift to drive new races into the hub. Anything else I
should have that they forgot to put in? And is there any reason I can't
just carefully drive the new races in with a hammer and a big socket?

If I'm careful, can a screwdriver be used to knock out the old races
instead of a brass punch? If I mess up with a screwdriver, what's the
worse that will happen - I need a new hub?

And finally, are the hub and rotor one integrated piece?

Thanks a lot. This is the first work I'm doing on this car, and the
first time I've done wheel bearings, so I'm kinda aprehensive about it.
I'd rather find out now that it's beyond my abilities and I can drive
to a shop than find out when the car is all apart and needs to be towed.

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User - 06 Jan 2006 04:40 GMT

Answered in line.

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> What does the bearing ride on? Directly on the spindle, or is there
> some type of replaceable surface I should know about and inspect?

The caged tapered roller bearing inner race slides over the spindle. The
inner and outer are differen sizes. The larger fits on the inner side of
the hub the smaller on the outer.

> The book says special tools are required, but the only thing special
> mentioned is a drift to drive new races into the hub. Anything else I
> should have that they forgot to put in? And is there any reason I can't
> just carefully drive the new races in with a hammer and a big socket?

The outer races are a snug press fit and although can easily drive them
out with a punch it's harder to drive them in without slipping off the
narrow edge of the race. It's also possible to chip the race while
driving it in when using a steel drift or punch so wear safety glasses
when hammering. It's also possible to slip and damage the bearing
surface. You need grease to pack the new bearings, the inner grease
seal, bearing retainer and a new cotter pin.

> If I'm careful, can a screwdriver be used to knock out the old races
> instead of a brass punch? If I mess up with a screwdriver, what's the
> worse that will happen - I need a new hub?

See above

> And finally, are the hub and rotor one integrated piece?

> Thanks a lot. This is the first work I'm doing on this car, and the
> first time I've done wheel bearings, so I'm kinda aprehensive about it.
> I'd rather find out now that it's beyond my abilities and I can drive
> to a shop than find out when the car is all apart and needs to be towed.

Signature

The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.

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Clay - 06 Jan 2006 18:19 GMT

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> I'd rather find out now that it's beyond my abilities and I can drive
> to a shop than find out when the car is all apart and needs to be towed.

fwiw,
I use the old race to drive in the new one. Line up skinny edge to
skinny edge and wack the wide side of the old race...
ymmv.

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