>The person who helped spec out the stereo for me said that I would need
>a battery with at least 70 cold cranking amps, does this sound
>unreasonable?
Sounds tiny; car batteries are rated at 400 or more CCAs. Generally,
electronic equipment requires a steady curent flow rated in amp-hours,
or AH. Not the same thing as CCAs, that's a rating for a short, high
current surge.
The staff at an auto parts store will have the AH ratings for the batteries
they sell. They can probably look up alternator ratings; something for a
mid-'70s Cadilac or Lincoln would probably be good. Get one that has a
built-in regulator.
Gary

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Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net I don't need an iPod, I have an IQ.
A worthwhile endeavour:
http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites
Timewarp - 18 Jan 2006 16:40 GMT
Hi. One thought...... Most cars with dynamos were positive earth,
the positive of the battery connected to chassis (frame).
Alternators are usually negative earth.
You will need to check this out or there will be problems.
All sorts of things on the vehicle may need to be changed.
Has it got electronic ignition? Clock?
Clive.
Lloyd Wells - 18 Jan 2006 23:05 GMT
> Hi. One thought...... Most cars with dynamos were positive earth,
> the positive of the battery connected to chassis (frame).
> Alternators are usually negative earth.
> You will need to check this out or there will be problems.
> All sorts of things on the vehicle may need to be changed.
> Has it got electronic ignition? Clock?
The only car I ever had w/ positive ground was my old 1959 Austin-Healy.
I've never seen a Volvo w/ positive ground at least since the B-16 122. I
put an alternator in a '66 122 w/ a B-20 engine. It was a while ago but I
think all I did was grab everything out of a 144 and slapped it in - worked
like a charm.