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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / February 2006

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145 alternator upgrade?

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Gary Heston - 08 Feb 2006 20:36 GMT
Greetings;

 I have my '72 145 back from the shop; the head transplant was a success,
and now I'm looking into other things.

 My car came without A/C, and therefore has a 35A alternator. The cars
that had A/C installed at the factory were fitted with a 55A alternator,
and I'm contemplating upgrading my car to one of those. Does anyone
happen to know if there were any issues with doing that? I know the
voltage regulators may be different, but replacements are available that
handle both the 35A and 55A alternators. Do I need to worry about
upgrading the wiring? New fuses?

 The existing alternator has a bad bearing and and seems to be a bit
weak (upon starting the car, the alternator  light stays on until I rev
the engine, and doesn't seem to be charging at idle); as long as I have to
do a remove/reinstall, I might as well improve things a bit. I'll have the
bearings in the 35A replaced and keep it as a spare.

 Thanks,

 Gary

Signature

Gary Heston  gheston@hiwaay.net   I don't need an iPod, I have an IQ.

A worthwhile endeavour:
http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites

Michael Pardee - 08 Feb 2006 22:37 GMT
> Greetings;
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
>  Gary

When I had a 145 the alternator gave up the ghost entirely and I decided to
replace it with a Ford alternator. It worked... kinda. The biggest problem I
had (after dealing with the different size hole for the pivot bolt) was the
diameter of the alternator itself. The Ford unit was larger and had to be
completely unmounted to get the belt on. I tried a larger belt but then the
alternator couldn't be adjusted far enough out to tension the belt - there
isn't a lot of swing available. Other than those mechanical problems it was
a success.

Mike
Chuck Fiedler - 08 Feb 2006 22:53 GMT
>Greetings;
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>that had A/C installed at the factory were fitted with a 55A alternator,
>and I'm contemplating upgrading my car to one of those. Does anyone

When I had a '73 142, the sorry alternator (French crap) just wouldn't
put out enough to handle the load. I got a Bosch 55A alternator and
regulator. As I recall, it was quite straightforward to replace the
parts. The wiring worked fine and the car ran like a champ. I also
replaced the electronic FI with a carburetter and that made a great
improvement. While not exactly straightforward, it wasn't all that
hard to do.

Good luck.

Chuck Fiedler
Nothing but Volvo since 1974
Gary Heston - 09 Feb 2006 01:07 GMT
>>  I have my '72 145 back from the shop; the head transplant was a success,
>>and now I'm looking into other things.

>>  My car came without A/C, and therefore has a 35A alternator. The cars
>>that had A/C installed at the factory were fitted with a 55A alternator,
>>and I'm contemplating upgrading my car to one of those. Does anyone

>When I had a '73 142, the sorry alternator (French crap) just wouldn't
>put out enough to handle the load. I got a Bosch 55A alternator and
>regulator. As I recall, it was quite straightforward to replace the
>parts. The wiring worked fine and the car ran like a champ.

I think the existing alternator is a Bosch. I'll have to check the
regulator in there (it's been replaced) to see if it's already a 55A
capable version. Looks like it'll go smoothly.

>                                                            I also
>replaced the electronic FI with a carburetter and that made a great
>improvement. While not exactly straightforward, it wasn't all that
>hard to do.

If the pressure sensor in mine dies (again), a carb conversion will
be required--Bosch quit making them, and there aren't any new ones
left anywhere. Where did you come up with a manifold, and what carb
did you use? I may as well start putting the parts together...

>Good luck.

Thanks,

Gary

Signature

Gary Heston  gheston@hiwaay.net   I don't need an iPod, I have an IQ.

A worthwhile endeavour:
http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites

Kelsey Cummings - 09 Feb 2006 02:00 GMT
> If the pressure sensor in mine dies (again), a carb conversion will
> be required--Bosch quit making them, and there aren't any new ones
> left anywhere. Where did you come up with a manifold, and what carb
> did you use? I may as well start putting the parts together...

If you already have FI, why not keep it?  Use Megasquirt, SDS or maybe
another aftermarket ECU.

Good luck with the Alternator.

-K
snpboy - 08 Feb 2006 22:59 GMT
I am not really familar with what model number of engine that you have, but
not far from here their is a volvo repair shop that on their web site sells
a alternator upgrade kit for the B-18&B-20 engines to up grade to a 63 amp
delco alternator, comes with a bracket to mount it.The web site is
Rainbowautosevice.com. look under parts.

Kasoma Duplantis
Gary Heston - 09 Feb 2006 00:52 GMT
>I am not really familar with what model number of engine that you have, but
>not far from here their is a volvo repair shop that on their web site sells
>a alternator upgrade kit for the B-18&B-20 engines to up grade to a 63 amp
>delco alternator, comes with a bracket to mount it.The web site is
>Rainbowautosevice.com. look under parts.

My car has a B20F (D-Jet injection) engine.

Nice concept, but $129 for a bracket, bolts, and easy instructions is
a bit steep--I can get two 55A aftermarket alternators for less than
that, and they will bolt right in.

At that price, something like an upgraded voltage regulator or a new
cable harness should be included.

Thanks for the link, though.

Gary

Signature

Gary Heston  gheston@hiwaay.net   I don't need an iPod, I have an IQ.

A worthwhile endeavour:
http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites

Mike F - 09 Feb 2006 19:13 GMT
> >I am not really familar with what model number of engine that you have, but
> >not far from here their is a volvo repair shop that on their web site sells
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> A worthwhile endeavour:
> http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites

I did this upgrade on my '74.  Only issue I know of is that the newer
alternators have a raised boss on the lower (big) bolt hole.  A longer
lower bolt may be necessary.  (Mine only caught about 3 threads with the
older bolt.)

Signature

Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

Gary Heston - 10 Feb 2006 03:47 GMT
>> >I am not really familar with what model number of engine that you have, but
>> >not far from here their is a volvo repair shop that on their web site sells
>> >a alternator upgrade kit for the B-18&B-20 engines to up grade to a 63 amp
>> >delco alternator, comes with a bracket to mount it.The web site is
>> >Rainbowautosevice.com. look under parts.

>I did this upgrade on my '74.  Only issue I know of is that the newer
>alternators have a raised boss on the lower (big) bolt hole.  A longer
>lower bolt may be necessary.  (Mine only caught about 3 threads with the
>older bolt.)

No problem--my lower bolt is a replacement already. The original one broke
off. Getting the tip out of the hole was a _real_ pain; had to pull the
radiator, drill a hole into the tip, drive an old screwdriver ground to a
square point into it to finally crack it loose with Vise-Grips on the
screwdriver shaft.

Really annoying... At least I have plenty of bolts around.

Gary

Signature

Gary Heston  gheston@hiwaay.net   I don't need an iPod, I have an IQ.

A worthwhile endeavour:
http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites

Bill Chaplin - 10 Feb 2006 18:15 GMT
Gary
 A Delco alt. from any GM after '75 goes in directly, giving 61a.one sense
attaches to charge,other one to existing idiot lite? More if wanted.  Bill

> Greetings;
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> A worthwhile endeavour:
> http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites
Pat Quadlander - 12 Feb 2006 23:13 GMT
Bosch makes a 55A upgrade that will fit right in to any B18 or B20.  Part #
is AL77X at KORE-TEK phone # is 508.995.3755.  I have no affiliation - there
are other suppliers probably.  I used this re-manufactured unit on my '70
1800E which is same as your 145 except that you have B20F.  Increased amps
make lights brighter, able to drive more appliances such as A/C, modern
radio and multiple speakers.

I have a used amm (air mass meter, air pressure meter, whatever) that may
fit your B20F that I pulled from a 140.  It worked on my B20E, but I
replaced with the correct part # so I have this extra.  I believe there are
a couple of specialty shops that claim they can rebuild this amm.  The ECU
almost never fails unless you bake it in a paint shop oven.  After that,
keeping your injector seals, fuel hoses, fuel filter and fuel pump in good
condition are the main things to keep D-Jet working reliably.  With FI or
carb, consider converting from mechanical points to electronic ignition for
improved timing and horsepower.

Pat Q
'70 1800E
'96 850

> Greetings;
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
>   Gary
Gary Heston - 13 Feb 2006 04:28 GMT
>Bosch makes a 55A upgrade that will fit right in to any B18 or B20.  Part #
>is AL77X at KORE-TEK phone # is 508.995.3755.  I have no affiliation - there
>are other suppliers probably.

That's just an alternator, correct? I found a site listing it as for the
'75 240 series. They (www.thevolvosite.com) also listed an external
regulator for that year, which would be consistent with the 145.

>                               I used this re-manufactured unit on my '70
>1800E which is same as your 145 except that you have B20F.

I think your 1800E is a lot more fun to drive than my 145. :-)

Have you looked into the supercharger kit at http://www.v-performance.com/ 
for your 1800E? The protype knocked six seconds off the 0-60 time for a
P1800 / B18 car.

>                                                            Increased amps
>make lights brighter, able to drive more appliances such as A/C, modern
>radio and multiple speakers.

I'll start with something that will charge at idle and go from there.

>I have a used amm (air mass meter, air pressure meter, whatever) that may
>fit your B20F that I pulled from a 140.  It worked on my B20E, but I
>replaced with the correct part # so I have this extra.

Manifold Pressure Control Sensor, MPC for short. I'd be interested in it;
the one I have isn't perfect. Price?

>                                                        I believe there are
>a couple of specialty shops that claim they can rebuild this amm.

Fuel Injection Corporation looks to be one; I'll se if they want to rebuild
my collection (4 or 5) of the things.

>                                                                   The ECU
>almost never fails unless you bake it in a paint shop oven.  After that,
>keeping your injector seals, fuel hoses, fuel filter and fuel pump in good
>condition are the main things to keep D-Jet working reliably.  With FI or
>carb, consider converting from mechanical points to electronic ignition for
>improved timing and horsepower.

IPD has a unit by Perlux that looks easy to install; heard anything about
it?

Gary

Signature

Gary Heston  gheston@hiwaay.net   I don't need an iPod, I have an IQ.

A worthwhile endeavour:
http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites

Pat Quadlander - 15 Feb 2006 04:06 GMT
Gary,

I don't know if all '75 240s were configured this way, but I saw a '75 245
wagon with a B20.  This was the 1st year of 240-era, so I guess this was a
transition year before going to the B230 engine.  Because it was a B20 with
F injection, it should be able to use the same alternator as B20s on older
120s, 140s, and 1800's.  I did not have to change any wiring from the
earlier 35A alternator.  It was 3 yrs ago that I upgraded to the 55A, so I
don't remember if the regulator was integrated or not.  In any event, it was
plug-and-play.

Group, did all '75 240s come with B20, or just some?

On the breakerless ignition, I selected the Crane product from IPD.  At the
time, I read a review that the Perlux product was not as easy to install
with "plug-n-play" convenience, so I elected to select the more expensive
Crane product.  This was on my son's '66 120s.  I was happily satisfied, and
did not second-guess my selection when it came time to upgrade the 1800E.
I'm sure there are plenty of customers who are very satisfied with the
less-expensive Perlux product.  Bottom line is the same: no more finicky
ignition points.

On the correctly named Manifold Pressure Control, I'll check the part number
on my extra part, and post it to let you verify it is the same part number.
Price is $40 plus shipping.  That's less than I paid, but I don't think I'll
need it in the future since I replaced with correct part # for my 1800E.

> >Bosch makes a 55A upgrade that will fit right in to any B18 or B20.  Part #
> >is AL77X at KORE-TEK phone # is 508.995.3755.  I have no affiliation - there
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
>
> Gary
Mike F - 15 Feb 2006 15:36 GMT
> Gary,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Group, did all '75 240s come with B20, or just some?

<snipped>

As I understand it, the B21 (overhead cam) was introduced on the 1975
models in some countries, but there were only B20s in North America in
1975.

Signature

Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

Ron - 15 Feb 2006 23:48 GMT
That's my understanding as well...but...

>> Gary,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>models in some countries, but there were only B20s in North America in
>1975.

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
1994 Volvo 850 (Tilley)
1973 Volvo 1800 ES (Hyacinth Bucket)
Pat Quadlander - 16 Feb 2006 00:26 GMT
I have 2 Manifold Pressure Controls for sale, $40 each plus shipping.  Here
are part numbers:

0 280 100 015
0 280 100 053

> Gary,
>
[quoted text clipped - 78 lines]
> >
> > Gary
 
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