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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / February 20061987 Volvo 740 GLE Non-turbo Crankshaft Bearings Knocking
OK, the mechanic told me that the crankshaft bearings are knocking. I have 196,000 miles and he will: Remove engine, remove crankshaft and bearings, replace or repair crankshaft, replace bearings, fix front and rear oil leaks (replace seals), replace front transmission seal, replace timing belt, re-install engine: $500 labor How likely is it that I only need bearings and not a new Crankshaft? If I need a new crankshaft, how much new or used? Thanks! Tell him to take a hike!! Crankshaft bearings rumble or growl, they do not knock. Connecting rod big-ends knock. Ask him for the proof of his diagnosis. Can you hear a deep thumping knocking yourself? If you cannot hear such a sound then there is no need to strip down the engine and cause, more problems. All the best, Peter. 700/900/90 Register Keeper, Volvo Owners Club (UK). > OK, the mechanic told me that the crankshaft bearings are knocking. I > have 196,000 miles and he will: [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Thanks! Thank you for the reply. I have to be diplomatic because this mechanic is actually a friend of my neighbor who does car repairs as a hobby. He is retired and I am told does really good work at really good prices. I surely don't want a mis-diagnosis, but I am sure if an error was made, it wasn't on purpose. This is why I am doing so much research on the Internet - to learn for myself and to be sure we do the most important thing- fix the problem. Thanks again! > Thank you for the reply. I have to be diplomatic because this mechanic > is actually a friend of my neighbor who does car repairs as a hobby. He [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Thanks again! I suspect he's just not experienced with Volvo, probably does a lot of work on domestics and is biased by the mileage, at which point most American motors would be about worn out. > Tell him to take a hike!! Crankshaft bearings rumble or growl, they do not > knock. Connecting rod big-ends knock. Ask him for the proof of his [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > > > Thanks! A rod knock is bad. It won't go way as the motor warms up, it will get worse. Drive it for a while longer and a rod bolt will break and the offending connecting rod will come through the side of the motor. Then it will be easy to diagnose the problem. $500 seems really cheap for what amounts to a lot of work. Bob  SignatureThe goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects. >OK, the mechanic told me that the crankshaft bearings are knocking. I >have 196,000 miles and he will: [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > >Thanks! I suspect that someone is trying to screw you. First it was the knock sensor and now it is the crankshaft bearing "knocking" He isn't even using right terminology. Just what symptoms do are you experiencing? Regards, Boris Mohar Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca void _-void-_ in the obvious place Hi, I think my lack of knowledge might be the main cause of the problem. I bought the car last week for $500 bucks, never even haven driven the car. It was an Professor's car - single owner, 196,000 miles, always serviced. I spent the first week cleaning the hell out of the car and degreasing oil off the engine from a front and rear leak. I changed the plugs, wires and air filter. In the process of removing and replacing the breather box and flame trap I broke the wire off the Knock Sensor and repaired it, then replaced it. I haven't run the engine much at all because at first it wouldn't run well, then when it ran it was leaking oil so badly I was afraid to run it. So, last night the guy replaced the distributor and rotor (I think), he said they were so worn he was surprised it ran at all. Then, when he test drove the car he said it knocked and he's sure it's the main bearings. I don't want to take risks to I want to get into the engine and see for sure. Thanks! JAmie > Hi, > I think my lack of knowledge might be the main cause of the problem. I [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Thanks! > JAmie Mebbe he knows and mebbe he don't. I recently bought a 240 of the same vintage for $100. The mechanics at the gas station said that the bearings were noisey. It had a bad water pump. Sounded real bad until you looked at where the noise was coming from, and you could see the water pump flange wobbling a lot. New pump no noise. Bob SignatureThe goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects. Amen to that! I'm all about going for the obvious first. Thing is, I want the engine and tranny solid so that I can move on to getting this car back in shape. The local mechanic wanted $250 to drop the tranny and fix the rear main seal leak. Then he wanted another $225 to change the timing belt, replace the cam and crank seals up front. My current mechanic, whom I like a lot better, is charging the same price to do all of the above, plus take out the engine and see what the deal is with the crank and bearings. $500 to pull the engine, replace all the seals front and back, change the timing belt, check compression, replace the rotor and distributor cap, check the shocks, struts, ignition wiring, the whole 9 yards - is A-OK in my book. This guy is retired Air Force who just does this because he loves it. He's not in it for the money, so I can't knock the guy, I just want to help and to learn. Thanks all! > OK, the mechanic told me that the crankshaft bearings are knocking. I > have 196,000 miles and he will: [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Thanks! That's very unusual for that mileage, what's it sound like? Personally I'd drive it until the engine dies, if it ever does, and then drop in a good used motor, they're easy to find and shouldn't cost more than a few hundred bucks. Well, that's encouraging, but it's going to cost me about $360 to replace the front and rear seals + timing belt, so for $140 more I get the engine removed, inspected and if there's internal damage, I pay for machining the crank and maybe new bearings. It would be nice to drive it till it dies, I'm just afraid of where I'll be stuck if/when it dies. :-) I'd be nervous about ALL the bearings, given the history of a bad oil leak. The engine only holds four quarts, and if most of it leaked out, the bearings will score. Consider having this fellow do a complete rebuild. New rod, main and cam bearings. Disassemble, hot tank and resurface block and head. New oil pump. Check, turn and polish crank. Valve job. New water pump. Just do it. Better still, obtain as good an engine as possible and ask him to swap it in. Should cost less than $500 to do that (straight swap, not a lot of labour). All the best, Peter. 700/900/90 Register Keeper, Volvo Owners Club (UK). > I'd be nervous about ALL the bearings, given the history of a bad oil > leak. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Just do it. > I'd be nervous about ALL the bearings, given the history of a bad oil > leak. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Just do it. It's not worth it to do a full rebuild unless the car is pristine or collectible. Volvo engines are easy to find in good shape, they're usually the last thing to wear out on those cars unless abused. Depends on how cheap the mechanic will do the work for. A tear down and rebuild is pretty straight forward, some outside machining, sure, but with a good labor rate the total shouldn't be much over $1600 or so. But yeah, it assumes the car is otherwise in good shape, otherwise forget throwing much money in it at all, just dump it and buy one in better shape to keep and refurbish. This car is pristine, for all accounts and purposes - which is why I am interested. It was a single owner car, the body is immaculate - no dents, dings or scratches and perfectly straight. The only exterior blemishes are where there is some fading on the hood, roof and trunk paint. I plan on repainting these. I need to replace weather stripping and each of the headlight doors, or moulding. The interior upholstery and carpet are immaculate. The headliner needs to be replaced. It's a gold exterior and interior that REALLY shines when polished. Oh, the dash has I think one crack near the passenger side. I'll have pics when I get her back. She has owner service records every year from 1987 until I think about 1995, or 150,000 miles. That's where I need to ask a few questions, because it was the same owner, a college Professor who couldn't work on cars but could drive to the dealer and pay to fix something when it broke. I really wish he wouldn't have left the car with those oil leaks. fingers crossed. > Depends on how cheap the mechanic will do the work for. > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > forget throwing much money in it at all, just dump it and buy one in > better shape to keep and refurbish. I don't know about there, but there's a couple local yards here where I could go pull a good running B230F for $150, I just can't see it being worth doing a full rebuild unless the car is *pristine* and you plan on driving it another 300K. > I don't know about there, but there's a couple local yards here where I > could go pull a good running B230F for $150, I just can't see it being > worth doing a full rebuild unless the car is *pristine* and you plan on > driving it another 300K. I bought my 244Turbo from a private party about 6 years ago, because the body was straight (not perfect) and the interior was good. The engine was tired. My plan was to keep it for the long haul, which necessitated a tear down and rebuild, including lowering springs, rebuilt suspension, rebuilt engine etc. Taking a chance on a junkyard engine was, frankly, never a viable option, as the car is my daily driver. But that's me: this fellow may just be looking for something to tide him over for awhile, in which case I'd say "Why not?" to a junkyard engine: spend a few hundred, do the R&R and roll dem bones, what the heck. But if you plan on keeping it indefinitely, if you want a reliable rig, and if you can afford it, rebuild it. >> I don't know about there, but there's a couple local yards here where I >> could go pull a good running B230F for $150, I just can't see it being [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > But if you plan on keeping it indefinitely, if you want a reliable rig, > and if you can afford it, rebuild it. Turbo is a bit different, the 240 Turbos are special cars, there's not a whole lot of nice ones around anymore and the turbo motors get worked a lot harder as well as it's a lot more difficult to find a good used one. It's worthwhile to overhaul one if the car is restorable and once you have a real solid motor you can upgrade it to get a lot more power. The thing about these cars is, they're well made, "classic" in design, comfortable, good steering and handling: they're a good product. Safe, too. So for one third or so the price of a new Camry, you can buy, rebuild, and restore an old Volvo. You pays your money and you makes your choices. > The thing about these cars is, they're well made, "classic" in design, > comfortable, good steering and handling: they're a good product. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > You pays your money and you makes your choices. Yes that's entirely true, I'm not arguing against that, just saying that there's an abundance of good condition motors out there that can be given a new life, no sense in wasting time rebuilding one if you can find one that's already got plenty of life left in it. Thanks for all of the good info. I'm in my mid-30's and just sold a perfectly good 2001 Honda Accord EX in order to cut expenses and purchase a house in the coming months. I saw this car for $500 bucks offered by a Professor at the local college. I grabbed it thinking if it got me to work and back for 3 months, it would have served it's purpose. The car looked really neglected. Then I cleaned it... Suddenly the car looked amazing! With a little detail the exterior and interior looked almost new. I needed a few things: headliner, tires, shocks, etc., but those were minor. The engine had this front and rear oil leak, mainly due I think to a neglected breather box and flame trap. We got that in shape, updated the ignition system and she is supposedly running like a charm -- with a knock. So, my thoughts are no longer that this is a 3 month temp car, but a car I want to restore to the best condition possible and put another 100,000 miles on. In my mind, if everything else on the car looks and works well, why not have an engine that is perfectly solid? In sum, I want an engine and drive train that I know will let me take 400-500 mile road trips a few times a year, and that the core is solid so I can begin to update all of the peripherals and bells and whistles. > Suddenly the car looked amazing! With a little detail the exterior and > interior looked almost new. I needed a few things: headliner, tires, > shocks, etc., but those were minor. A bit early for this now, but here's a tip on the headliner. If this is a sedan, have the windshield removed to get the headliner in/out otherwise while it can be done, you'll be cursing and swearing up and down that there's no possible way to get it in or out without breaking it in half. Hmmm, well, it needs a new windshield because of a crack. I thought removing the seats would do the trick, but you make a great point. Thanks! I can tell this is going to be a painful relationship. I had my Volvo for a week, then the mechanic has had her for a week. Am I the only one going through withdrawels from not having my car to work on? These cars are addictive! At first it was just a $500 ride. Now I want to do the brakes, tires, suspension, engine, interior. etc, etc, etc. This car is almost 20 years old and isn't even a turbo. Somebody should have warned me these cars are worse than crack cocaine! :-) > I can tell this is going to be a painful relationship. I had my Volvo > for a week, then the mechanic has had her for a week. Am I the only one [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > This car is almost 20 years old and isn't even a turbo. Somebody should > have warned me these cars are worse than crack cocaine! :-) Yes, just look through the IPD catalog and in no time at all you'll have a list of hundreds of dollars worth of goodies you want. Just remember that almost 20 years ago someone plunked down the equivalent of around $35,000 in today's money for that car, they took one heck of a depreciation hit and got it all broken in for you :) Even if you manage to spend enough that it becomes a $4,000 car, you'll be cruising in comfort and style in your decked out luxury brick for the price of a used Kia. I'd happily spend $35,000 on this 20 year old car. If I could do it one dollar a day for the next 35,000 days... :-) > Hmmm, well, it needs a new windshield because of a crack. I thought > removing the seats would do the trick, but you make a great point. > > Thanks! Been there, done that, I will say that it *can* be done without removing the windshield, but I will never do it that way again. It's very unnerving after spending hours carefully stripping and recovering the headliner, to be bending and twisting it until you're sure it's gonna snap in half, trying all sorts of positions swearing up and down that there's just no way to get it in there until it finally does pop into place. That was with both all the seats as well as the parking brake console removed. Funny, the people who sell the headliner kits don't seem to mention this. hmmmmmm. Seriously, I know they want to make the job seem as easy as possible to sell kits. Worst case, cut off the top and make a convertible. ;-) |
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