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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / March 200686 Volvo 740 Turbo NO HEAT =:0(~
My 86 Volvo 740 T Named Thelma, is having problems. Poor gal, first the heater fan went, I replaced that, now all of a sudden NO heat. It has been cool heat the last year anyway but NONE now. I got pooking around and found the Vacuume line to the heater valve (on the top line to the heater core) broke. So I fixed that with some vacuume line. Still no heat. So now I wonder is it the Heater Valve, the heater core blocked, or is Thelma just giving me a hard time...LOL I love the car, but its cold up here in Maine right now and hard to drive when cold... Thanks if anyone has any ideas. David Portland, ME =:0)~ Once the beast warms up, check the temperature of the return line heater hose (runs from the heater core back to the engine) to see if it's warm/hot. If so, no obstruction in heater control valve or core. Hey, Thank you... And if the return line is not hot? How can I tell if the heater valve is working? If I push the lever thingy, it pushes in. Thank you David Hi there, OK, I went and ran the car. The Valve is on the lower hose. The hose before and after the valve is hot. The hose coming off the top is not warm at all. Im guessing the valve is ok?!?! The heater core is blocked? If so how do I get it unblocked? Will flushing the whole system make it better? Is there a way to flush the heater core by itself, with out removing it? Thank you David I can only speak about the vehicle I have done this on, a 1981 244, but assuming the layout is similar... Remove the panel to allow acces to the heater control valve (on the 244, it's above the gas pedal, slightly to the right, near the firewall). Move the temperature control handle while watching the movement of the heater control valve; if it feels normal, with slight resistance, the valve is probably OK, and the problem would lie with the heater core, which is "downstream." To confirm: feel the temperature of the hose leading from the heater control valve to the heater core, to see if it is warm/hot after car is warmed up. If it is cold, and the temperature control handle is in the full open / hot position, the heater control valve needs to be replaced. Otherwise, the core is toast (obstructed). Of the two scenarios, the heater control valve is the more likely culprit. Sorry Im confused. The two hoses that go through the fire wall do not go directly to the heater core? What is the Heater control Valve? Is that the one that is in the engine compartment on the 740, on the bottom line going in to the heater core? If so that is hot both before and after. If it is the core, can it be flushed while still installed? I hope its the heater control valve, but Im thinking its not. > I can only speak about the vehicle I have done this on, a 1981 244, but > assuming the layout is similar... 700 series is completely different, the heater valve is vacuum operated and is located in the engine compartment. Thanks, good thing I qualified it. Still, the troubleshooting methodology might transfer over. Awesome...Thank you all.. Ill try those things today and see. Hopefully its vacuum line or the valve, hate to think its the hater (Ha ha) core. (Heater core). Will let you know... > Thanks, good thing I qualified it. > > Still, the troubleshooting methodology might transfer over. OK I did some trouble shooting. I think it vacuum, BUT the cable to the dash control is broken in the plastic wher it screws on. So I ordered one from Volvo. Gonna be a hard change but worth it if it fixes this. I also found this on line as well. http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/HeatingAirConditioning.html#MCCClimateControlACN otWorking Will let everyone knwo what happends. David OK I did some trupble shooting. I think it vacuum, BUT the cable to the dash control is broken in the plastic wher it screws on. So I ordered one from Volvo. Gonna be a hard change but worth it if it fixes this. I also found this on line as well. http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/HeatingAirConditioning.html#MCCClimateControlACN otWorking Will let everyone knwo what happends. David Are there any 740s in USA/Canada that do not have air conditioning, or is it a universal thing? All the best, Peter. 700/900/90 Register Keeper, Volvo Owners Club (UK). > OK I did some trupble shooting. I think it vacuum, BUT the cable to the > dash control is broken in the plastic wher it screws on. So I ordered [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Will let everyone knwo what happends. > David > Are there any 740s in USA/Canada that do not have air conditioning, or is it > a universal thing? It's universal, all 700 and 900 series cars came with A/C, EFI, power windows and heated seats. Every one I've ever seen had a sunroof too, though I've heard rumors that some came without. > > Are there any 740s in USA/Canada that do not have air conditioning, or is it > > a universal thing? > > It's universal, all 700 and 900 series cars came with A/C, EFI, power > windows and heated seats. Every one I've ever seen had a sunroof too, > though I've heard rumors that some came without. In Canada, all 85 740s came without A/C, but all had the A/C adaptable heating system. Most had A/C installed at the dealer level. In 1989/1990, some of the cheaper models (740 with no letters) came without A/C (and cheaper interiors and steel wheels) to try and get their list price down. The price of the dealer installed A/C was so ridiculously high that they ended up having promotions to give A/C away as very few people paying "Volvo money" were interested in a car without A/C. (These down contented cars also came without a sunroof.)  SignatureMike F. Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont. Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.) >>> Are there any 740s in USA/Canada that do not have air conditioning, or is it >>> a universal thing? [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > people paying "Volvo money" were interested in a car without A/C. > (These down contented cars also came without a sunroof.) Interesting, yet another case I was unfamiliar with of strange versions available in Canada. For the US though my previous statement still applies, if there were any exceptions, they're extremely rare. OK so the dealer called and said the cable is back ordered. does anyone know where I can find a cable after market maybe? ITs 65.00 thought the dealer... OUCH... Hope this fixes it... I did find that one vacuum leak out by the water valve, heater valve, what ever they call it right now. Only think is, I need to find the solid line, the soft vacuum line wont hold up once its warm out. Any ideas? Thanks guys, David I might try voluparts in Atlanta: http://voluparts.com/ or vlvworld in canada: http://vlvworld.com/ They deal in used and new parts. You might find a good used one a save a few bucks Regards Russ > Awesome...Thank you all.. > Ill try those things today and see. Hopefully its vacuum line or the > valve, hate to think its the hater (Ha ha) core. (Heater core). > Will let you know... I'd be shocked if the heater core were the problem, that'd have to be one heck of a clog! My guess is a vacuum line cracked, haven't had that happen on the heater valve but I've had plenty of other vacuum lines do that, some of the ones in the '88 Saab literally snapped in half when I pushed them out of the way. They'd turned completely hard and brittle. > > Awesome...Thank you all.. > > Ill try those things today and see. Hopefully its vacuum line or the [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > ones in the '88 Saab literally snapped in half when I pushed them out of > the way. They'd turned completely hard and brittle. Volvo has the opposite problem. THe tubing is so soft it collapses and kinks when the weather is hot and takes a set in the collapsed form when the weather gets cold. Sometimes there's enough cold from the A/C to set the hose in the summer and then none of the inside vents work either. Bob SignatureThe goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects. > Hey, > Thank you... And if the return line is not hot? How can I tell if the > heater valve is working? If I push the lever thingy, it pushes in. > Thank you > David Easiest way is to remove the valve and run water through it, pushing the lever should open or close the flap. Sometimes these old valves get fragile though, some are plastic and I broke the pipe off of one, but then if that happens it was ready to go anyway. > Once the beast warms up, check the temperature of the return line > heater hose (runs from the heater core back to the engine) to see if > it's warm/hot. > > If so, no obstruction in heater control valve or core. Pull the control panel out and check the white vacuum line to make sure it is not pinched or crimped. Check the vacuum lines just to the right of the gas pedal for the same thing. Usually the vacuum supply pipe gets crimped and there is no vacuum to the heater control valve. Bob SignatureThe goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects. Well what a long fix that was. I have finally, TODAY fixed the heat in the car. I found, my heater core hooked up backwards, (hoses on the wrong places), the Vacuum line, broken and the control cable to adjust the heat/temp on the dash broken as well. I found a local junk yard, (after alot of looking and asking) went there, got the vacuum lines, and connections, the heater cable, and someother parts. Then purchased a heater control valve from AutoZone, exact replacement. CHEAP, and NEW. I re-routed the heater coolant lines to the correct heater core nipples. Then replaced the heater valve, and Vacuum lines, Today got into the dash and with out taking the whole thing out, took a home builders pry bar, and a long handle screw driver to get the cable off the heater box flapper control. Replaced the Cable, adjusted it, put the dash back together and then there was HEAT..... Took way too long, but had to do it when I could. If anyone has problems with heat, I would say check the things I did. The biggest thing in the end was the cable, but it can be replaced easily. Just be carefull, and heat the heater box first, so the white metal heater box flapper thing the cable conects too isnt too cold. Thanks to everyone that helped. The link for parts http://voluparts.com/was great, the guy nice, but didnt have the right one. IF he did, he said $10.00, plus 3.85 shipping. Very nice. For the record, my mechanic, I use for those things I cant seem to get, said about $400.00 to $500.00 just for the cable replacement (taking the dash out). So I have heat... Thanks all, David Portland ME 26F tonight. 03.16.06 |
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