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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / February 2006

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Can someone please tell me about OEM suspension on my car?

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jamiebabineaux@gmail.com - 21 Feb 2006 13:43 GMT
I think I need to name my car instead of repeating "I'm the new guy
with the 1987 Volvo 740 GLE".  LOL

Right now I'll just call her the "Gold Brick" or something...

Anyway, because my car is with the mechanic and I won't have it for a
while, I am making a list of things to do in the future and one thing
is to replace the suspension. I'll do the tie rods, ball joints, radius
arm bushings, etc., but I also need to do the shocks/struts/springs.

I thought the car just had coilovers in the front and shocks in the
rear, but that doesn't seem the case.

Can someone please tell me two things:
1) If I want to replace what Volvo put on the car for suspension, what
must I need for the front, and what must I need for the rear?

2) If I want to spend just a FEW extra bucks (not many) and slightly
improve over factory suspension, what's a good recommendation.

NOTE: About the suspension, what's thrown me is that for the front I
just thought I had to buy 2 coilover assemblies - complete with strut
inside of a spring. Instead, the parts websites show struts, strut
inserts, springs, boots, all of the individual parts. I don't have a
clue without having my car here.

Thanks!
User - 22 Feb 2006 06:48 GMT
> I think I need to name my car instead of repeating "I'm the new guy
> with the 1987 Volvo 740 GLE".  LOL
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> Thanks!

Front suspension, strut inserts. Separate the tie rod end and sway bar
drop link. Support strut on jack. Remove two nuts for upper strut mount.
Lower strut assembly. Remove jack. Compress spring. Remove top nut for
strut insert. Separate mount, dust boot, washer and nut from insert.
Undo cap nut on strut housing (Channellock 460 or larger). Remove
insert. Install new insert. Install dust boot, spring, washer, mount,
cone, washer and nut. Push assembly back under fender lip. Remove spring
compressors. Position assembly to go up into position. Set tie rod end
in place. Use a lever to pry the sway bar down enough to install a nut a
few threads. Put lever under sway bar and lift the assembly into place
noting the proper orientation of the strut mount. Look across at the
other side if you don't remember how it goes. Start the nuts for the
upper mount. Release the lever. Tighten everything up. Install the upper
sway bar link bushings. Brands of shocks that come to mind are: Volvo,
Sachs OEM, Boge OEM, Bilstein, Koni.

Rear suspension. Wagon-Standard shocks or Nivomats. If Nivomat self
leveling ride system then buy springs, Volvo PN 1359710 (wagon, 11.9 mm
wire, spring rate unknown) or 1273977 (sedan with "live" or "straight
axle" 11.3mm wire, spring rate unknown). Use standard shocks, same
brands as above.

If it has the Nivomat rear suspension in a sedan (Multilink independent
rear suspension) about the only thing you can do is find a conventional
rear with the correct ratio gearset and replace it wheel to wheel.

Bob

 
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The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.

James Sweet - 22 Feb 2006 07:17 GMT
> If it has the Nivomat rear suspension in a sedan (Multilink independent
> rear suspension) about the only thing you can do is find a conventional
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>    

Isn't it only the 760 that got Nivomats?

I put a set of KYB struts/shocks on my 740 a few years ago, I've been
happy with them, a bit firmer than stock but still not bad. New bushings
make a huge difference, did them on the 240, the 740 is in dire need of
them but I need some warmer weather before I tackle that.
jamiebabineaux@gmail.com - 22 Feb 2006 14:47 GMT
Thanks Bob, that's really great info.

Jamie
jamiebabineaux@gmail.com - 22 Feb 2006 14:49 GMT
No need to replace front springs, by default? In other words, just
because the strut insert needs changing doesn't mean the springs have
settled?
 
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