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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / March 2006how many ohms should an ignition module be?
Volvo 240 ignition module - Does anyone know please what the ohm read out should be on this module when not actually in the vehicle? Our car has now broken down a couple of miles from home and will not start at all. My Dad has bought the ignition module home with a view to testing the connectors. Despite a search on Google, I am having difficulty finding out what the readings from pin to pin should be. Results we have at the moment (with module out of vehicle) are the following... connecting between pins.. pins 3-4 = 2.1 ohms pins 2-4 = 2.1 ohms pins 1-4 = 4.6 ohms pins 2-3 = 0 ohms (suspect) pins 2-1 = 2.5 ohms pins 1-3 = 2.5 ohms As you can see, most pins are between 2-2.5 but with pins 1-4 being 4.6ohms (excessive?) and pins 2-3 being zero. > Volvo 240 ignition module - Does anyone know please what the ohm read out > should be on this module when not actually in the vehicle? [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > As you can see, most pins are between 2-2.5 but with pins 1-4 being 4.6ohms > (excessive?) and pins 2-3 being zero. It's kinda hard to tell much from ohm readings, you really need it to be in an operating circuit to test it. > It's kinda hard to tell much from ohm readings, you really need it to > be in an operating circuit to test it. Just managed to get our hands on a new one to test and the readings are significantly higher - in the 8-9 range. Perhaps the stalling problem is the ignition module and its not serving enough power. > Just managed to get our hands on a new one to test and the readings are > significantly higher - in the 8-9 range. Perhaps the stalling problem is > the ignition module and its not serving enough power. I don't think you fully understand what you're measuring. The readings could be different simply due to a different design of a circuit which performs the same thing. Try the new one in the car and see how it behaves, that's the only way to test it. The repair manual I have (Bentley) gives readings, but only when the vehicle is running. Sort of a Catch-22. > I don't think you fully understand what you're measuring. The readings > could be different simply due to a different design of a circuit which > performs the same thing. Try the new one in the car and see how it > behaves, that's the only way to test it. No difference unfortunately, the car is still refusing to start at all now. Thankfully we only borrowed it from someone :-) >>I don't think you fully understand what you're measuring. The readings >>could be different simply due to a different design of a circuit which [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > No difference unfortunately, the car is still refusing to start at all now. > Thankfully we only borrowed it from someone :-) What car is this and what condition is the wiring harness in? If it's earlier than an '89 or so and the engine harness is original then that's likely your problem. Do check the hall sensor though. > What car is this and what condition is the wiring harness in? If it's > earlier than an '89 or so and the engine harness is original then > that's likely your problem. > > Do check the hall sensor though. We think its possibly the fuel pump relay (its a 1993 volvo 240e). Symptoms (car stalling on slowdown to junctions from a warm engine start) point to fuel pump relay although the relay looks in very good condition. Going to see if we can borrow one to test the car. >>What car is this and what condition is the wiring harness in? If it's >>earlier than an '89 or so and the engine harness is original then [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > fuel pump relay although the relay looks in very good condition. Going to > see if we can borrow one to test the car. Is the fuel pump running? You should be able to hear it under the car while cranking the engine. The outside of the relay can look fine and it can still be bad. You have to pop the cover off and inspect the soldering on the circuit board. > Is the fuel pump running? You should be able to hear it under the car > while cranking the engine. > > The outside of the relay can look fine and it can still be bad. You > have to pop the cover off and inspect the soldering on the circuit > board. We had a look at it last night, popped open the cover and it looked brand new inside, no corrosion or anything. It was suggested that when the car cut out, to place a wire between fuses 4 and 6 to see if the car would start. If the car started it was probably the relay. It did start, but unfortunately we do not know if it would have started anyway. >> Is the fuel pump running? You should be able to hear it under the car >> while cranking the engine. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > start. If the car started it was probably the relay. It did start, but > unfortunately we do not know if it would have started anyway. The failures show up as hairline cracks in the solder, running around the leads for the relay connections. When I was young I could see them in any light; now I have to take it into the sunlight and take my glasses off :-( Mike > The failures show up as hairline cracks in the solder, running around > the leads for the relay connections. When I was young I could see > them in any light; now I have to take it into the sunlight and take > my glasses off :-( I was looking for corrosion :-( If we do find hairline cracks, is it possible to just resolder it and be done with it? Am finding it extremely difficult to find a replacement. One company says they can get one but it will be a 6 week delivery. We need a fix now as the car is getting steadily worse. Have you asked IPD if they have one? http://www.ipdusa.com All the best, Peter. 700/900/90 Register Keeper, Volvo Owners Club (UK). >> The failures show up as hairline cracks in the solder, running around >> the leads for the relay connections. When I was young I could see [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > One company says they can get one but it will be a 6 week delivery. We > need a fix now as the car is getting steadily worse. > Have you asked IPD if they have one? http://www.ipdusa.com > > All the best, Peter. > > 700/900/90 Register Keeper, > Volvo Owners Club (UK). Hi Peter thanks for the link, I actually found one finally later yesterday. Going to pick it up today. >> The failures show up as hairline cracks in the solder, running around >> the leads for the relay connections. When I was young I could see >> them in any light; now I have to take it into the sunlight and take >> my glasses off :-( >I was looking for corrosion :-( >If we do find hairline cracks, is it possible to just resolder it and be >done with it? Am finding it extremely difficult to find a replacement. One >company says they can get one but it will be a 6 week delivery. We need a >fix now as the car is getting steadily worse. Yes, resoldering is the recommended alternative to replacement. Gary  SignatureGary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net I don't need an iPod, I have an IQ. A worthwhile endeavour: http://www.thebrestcancersite.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/CTDSites >>The failures show up as hairline cracks in the solder, running around >>the leads for the relay connections. When I was young I could see [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > company says they can get one but it will be a 6 week delivery. We need a > fix now as the car is getting steadily worse. Yes, it takes about 5 minutes. Just heat up the joints with a soldering iron and flow in a bit of fresh rosin core solder, then let it cool. Any TV repair shop can do it for you if you lack the tools to do it yourself. Ohm Sweet Ohm SignaturePardon my spam deterrent; send email to rhodyman@earthlink.net Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman Testing in situ gives the following recommended readings. (a) Terminal 4 to ground and/or ignition coil terminal 15 should read 12Volts. (b) Terminal 5 to ground with starter motor operating should show a pulsating reading between 0 and 2 Volts. (c) Terminal 1 to coil terminal 15 should read 0.6 to 1.2 Ohms resistance. (d) Terminal 1 to king lead connector on coil (HT terminal) should read 6.5 - 9.0 Ohms resistance. (e) Terminal 2 to ground should read 0 Ohms resistance. (f) Ensure that screen (shield) of screened cable is connected to Terminal 3. If (c) reading is too low replace coil. If (c) is too high, check wire between Terminal 1 and coil terminal 15, replace or repair if necessary. If (d) is too low or too high replace coil. If (b) is OK but unit is not working try replacement unit. The above information comes from the EZ 116 K Ignition system Green Book. All the best, Peter. 700/900/90 Register Keeper, Volvo Owners Club (UK). >> Volvo 240 ignition module - Does anyone know please what the ohm read out >> should be on this module when not actually in the vehicle? [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > It's kinda hard to tell much from ohm readings, you really need it to be > in an operating circuit to test it.
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