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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / May 2006Flame trap removal 240
The recent thread on flame traps and oil being blown through seals caused me pause. I've got oil blowing through the front seals, behind the water pump pulley and the lower pully from the looks of it. The odds are better that 50-50 that the flame trap is clogged. After much searching under the hood of my 1990 240, I think I've found it by tracing hoses to it (none of my manual actually show the location, and none have instructions for removal). How the heck do you get the danged thing out of there without removing the injector rail? Sheesh! And what was volvo thinking? This is a simple and important item, it ought to be trivial to access and replace. > The recent thread on flame traps and oil being blown through seals > caused me pause. I've got oil blowing through the front seals, behind [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > the injector rail? Sheesh! And what was volvo thinking? This is a > simple and important item, it ought to be trivial to access and replace. This is a plain text attachment. It should help.  Signaturehttp://freevision.org/michael/index.html > This is a plain text attachment. It should help. Thank you. The question remains as to *how* to get the doggone thing out. I can't reach it from underneath the intake manifold because my ham-like hand won't fit, and I can't reach it from the top because the big fat tube attached up there leaves just about no space to get my fingers around it to grab it and yank it off. Can I check the flame trap without removing it? For example, if I pull the small rubber hose that runs from the small nipple on the trap to the brass nipple on the intake manifold, should there be positive pressure or a vacuum? Or could I not tell from this if the trap is blocked? Also, this small hose, which is rubber, seems a little bit deteriorated from oil and seems kind of smooshy. Is this just a standard piece of hose I can get at any auto parts store? >> This is a plain text attachment. It should help. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > from oil and seems kind of smooshy. Is this just a standard piece of > hose I can get at any auto parts store? You just need small hands and a fair amount of patience, it does come out though. IPD sells a relocation kit to move it up above the manifold as it's placed on later model 240s. > >> This is a plain text attachment. It should help. > > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > out though. IPD sells a relocation kit to move it up above the > manifold as it's placed on later model 240s. Well, I don't have small hands and patience is not abundant in my soul. :-P But I did finally get the thing out and no sign of clogging whatsoever. How does one check the lower hose from the crankcase to the flame trap? It looks big enough that it oughtn't clog, but you never know. Thanks for the tip on the IPD kit, I'll look into that. This ought to be trivial, and it isn't. I'll have to peek under the hood of the wife's 1993 240 to see where it is there compared to my 1990. > Well, I don't have small hands and patience is not abundant in my soul. > :-P But I did finally get the thing out and no sign of clogging > whatsoever. How does one check the lower hose from the crankcase to the > flame trap? It looks big enough that it oughtn't clog, but you never > know. I wouldn't have thought so either, but mine did <8^P You can do a confidence test by removing the oil filler cap and hooking a piece of hose to the top of the flame trap housing. When you blow through the hose and through the crankcase the restriction should be a bit more than you'd expect from the hose, but not much. If it feels like you are blowing through a soda straw or worse, plan to remove the hose along with the oil/air separator box it connects to. (You're gonna wish you had small hands again! Maybe you can get a helper.) It is held by two bolts with 10mm heads, and needs to be coaxed up after that due to friction of the o-rings. Replacement is usually preferred to cleaning because it is hard to clean well. Mike > > Well, I don't have small hands and patience is not abundant in my > > soul. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > coaxed up after that due to friction of the o-rings. Replacement is > usually preferred to cleaning because it is hard to clean well. Thanks for the idea. Jeez. looking down there, there is no way that I would have a hope of doing that job myself. One downside of being 6'4" is hands to match. Headroom is one of the reasons I drive a 240! I tried to check for a clogged breather box while still attached to the engine. I think I got it here or on the Brickroad site. I have oil leaking from the front end (seals), above water pump.The flame trap hoses were checked out and found clear. The flame trap was removed and cleared. I know I have the leak, but I weanted to find the cause. Anyway, I drained oil, and puored Gunk engine flush through large hose on breather box. It flowed right through. Supposed to indicate clear box. If it goes slowly your supposed to pour through some carb cleaner and then try the more engine cleaner. After that I poured some of the old oil through the oil fill to run out some of what was left of the cleaners in the pan, then return plug and fill with oil. You do not need to remove the filter and I saved and reused my oil because I had just changed it, and its leaking pretty good so I have to keep adding to it. They recommend you do this prior to an oil change. " I have oil leaking from the front end (seals), above water pump." Sounds like front cam seal. I had one work itself loose, causing a major leak. An easy R&R, if you are mechanically inclined (need a torque wrench to retorgue the bolts holding down the cam and the valve cover). > I tried to check for a clogged breather box while still attached to the > engine. I think I got it here or on the Brickroad site. I have oil [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > because I had just changed it, and its leaking pretty good so I have to > keep adding to it. They recommend you do this prior to an oil change. Those seals do not last forever. Most likely the seal has simply gotten too old to do it's job. I just replaced the three front seals on my '93 20 which doing a timing belt replacement. The cam seal and crank seal were both leaking. I got Elring replacement seals from eeuroparts.com very inexpensively. John |
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