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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / October 2006V70 Water in Air Pump
I have a 98 V70 and I replaced the Valve at the top of the motor that runs down to the Air pump 3 weeks ago. At the time I replaced the valve I pulled the Air Pump and removed the water and check to see if still ran, I hardley did so my search went on to get another Air Pump. I got one yesterday and pulled the air pump and it was filled to the brim with water again! Check light on and Air Pump not working and valved replaced, where did the water come from, It has not rained here in months. Alan > I have a 98 V70 and I replaced the Valve at the top of the motor that > runs down to the Air pump 3 weeks ago. At the time I replaced the valve [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Alan The water comes from the exhaust. Since pump was not working, the exhaust would make its way into the pump when the system was turned on. Also, make sure that there's no exhaust coming down the hose that's connected to that new valve, when the valve is closed.  SignatureMike F. Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont. Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.) Mike, Your reply makes sence to me, I checked the valve and it is working for 1 to 2 min acter the car is started, so I feel safe to install the used pump tonight, I bought a 850 air pump and converted it to my hard ware and modified the larger hose (intake from the air box). I check and the CMF is the same and all I had to do was clean up and change the motor back where the electrical is. If interested I will let you know the outcome, by the way when I disconnected the air pump yesterday (car battery was off for 45 min) the system error light on the dash board did not come back on and has not come on, so I will guess the computer just checks if current is flowing to the blower and ther is no sensor measuring the air flow. Interested. THANKS A BUNCH!!! Alan > > I have a 98 V70 and I replaced the Valve at the top of the motor that > > runs down to the Air pump 3 weeks ago. At the time I replaced the valve [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. > (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.) > Mike, > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Alan The air pump system is checked with software and existing sensors. It works only after cold starts for a couple of minutes, and without an expensive flow sensor, there'd be no way to tell if it was working, and a flow sensor would be easy to fool. So what they do is after the engine has warmed up, and is at idle, the air pump is started and the valve opened. The computer uses the oxygen sensor to monitor oxygen content in the exhaust, and if it doesn't notice some extra oxygen, it sets the "air pump codes". If the A/C comes on, or the throttle is moved, then the test is aborted. This is why air pump codes don't appear at cold start. SignatureMike F. Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont. Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.) Thank you for your time to tell me how it works, that is exactly what I wanted to know. I am sure others feel the same way as I do about your replies. I installed the used pump last night and tomorrow I will pull off the hose to the valve to make sure that the pump is running, I could not hear it or feel it under the battery to tell. I tested it on 12 v before I installed is it makes no noise. I could also use a VOM meter as well. Thanks again. Alan > > Mike, > > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. > (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.) > Thank you for your time to tell me how it works, that is exactly what I > wanted to know. I am sure others feel the same way as I do about your [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Alan That's bad news. When you apply 12 volts to the pump, it draws so much current that ordinary cheap clip leads melt! It makes noise like a jet engine spooling up, very unmistakable. You can easily test it by removing its relay, under the "Main Fuses" cover in the engine compartment. The air pump relay is the one 2nd closest to the coil. Bridge the 2 big terminals, which will start the air pump. But use a thick wire! A bent paper clip will be hot enough to burn immediately! SignatureMike F. Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont. Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.) Mike, Thanks again but this is what I did Saturday, I check the large fuse and it checked out ok and then I found the two yellow relays one was the pump relay and the other the main relay and they both had the same part number so I swapped them and the car started, so I guess this relay is OK. I will tonight try to jump accross the relay to see is the pump will start. In the mean time I have tested the pump again and blew all the water out (about 1/4 cup and got wet) and left it disconnedted for now. (no more water intrusion now) My next guess is the signal that goes to the relay has a problem now. I left the old pump in too long filled with water untill this past Thursday, it might have damaged something because the light on the dash is off, but when I checked for errors the error for the pump was there. (the light works on ACC) Alan > > Thank you for your time to tell me how it works, that is exactly what I > > wanted to know. I am sure others feel the same way as I do about your [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly. > (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
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