Actually, the sequence is pretty primitive. When you first turn the key to
the "run" position the in-tank fuel pump should run. When you turn the key
to the "start" position the main fuel pump should run and continue to run
for 5 seconds if the engine doesn't start or as long as the engine is
running and the ignition is in the "run" position. When the ignition is on
(in the "run" position) power is applied to the entire ignition system, so
you will get spark - initiated by the Hall effect sensor in the
distributor - when the engine turns. Also when the ignition is on, the Idle
Air Control (IAC) valve is opened some amount (all the way? it is not a
servo mechanism, just a 1/4 rotation motor) and a preset amount of fuel is
injected based on normal idle requirements and trimmed by a voltage level
from the MAF sensor. That condition changes to a different algorithm when
the throttle is opened slightly, but this description is at idle. When the
engine fires, the ECU monitors the engine speed (ignition rate) and adjusts
the IAC valve to maintain proper idle speed. The whole thing settles into
the groove within a couple seconds of the engine firing up.

Have you cleaned the throttle body (and IAC valve as necessary) yet? That's
what normally causes stalling at idle after a cold start. If it were not
sensitive to the cold I'd recommend looking at the MAF (especially if it is
not only at idle) and the fuel pump relay (especially if it was worse when
hot in the car), but the cold stalling problem points strongly at the
throttle body.

Mike

There isn't much of a sequence, as far as you'll perceive, the processes
all happen pretty much instantaneously.

Have you tried unplugging the air mass meter to see if that makes a
difference? That and the wiring harness in pre-89 cars are the usual
problems.