
Signature
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
> > Thanks Tim, I had checked the wiring but not the coil earth - I will
> > do that. It's tricky to find a fault that has gone...
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
> (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
Thanks guys. Today the car stopped again, but I had my trusty
voltmeter with me. I measured the voltage on the coil: ignition on -
nothing. Cranking - 12v to chassis on both red and blue wires, of
course no voltage across the coil. I tried earthing the coil body/
amplifier heatsink - no change. I don't expect either coil connection
to be grounded but the fault must be in whatever it is that drives the
coil amplifier. Time, I thought, to read the fault codes: Socket A
pins 2 and 3 give 1-1-1, socket B pin 5 gives 1-1-1. None of the
other pins give any flashes. I hope this means something to
someone... the temp. gauge was doing the same thing: switch on, the
needle goes to halfway, pauses for second, then goes right up, pauses
for a few seconds then falls to zero. After an hour and a half, as I
was attaching the tow rope, my wife tried the key and she fired up,
drove home with no problems. I didn't mention it before, but the
central locking gives trouble in damp weather, especially the
tailgate, and the remote often will not lock the doors although it
will unlock them after I have locked them manually. Could this be an
immobiliser fault? Where is the immobilser located, and can I disable
it?
Tim.. - 23 Feb 2007 20:14 GMT
>> > Thanks Tim, I had checked the wiring but not the coil earth - I will
>> > do that. It's tricky to find a fault that has gone...
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> immobiliser fault? Where is the immobilser located, and can I disable
> it?
No, it wont be an immobilizer fault, as it is inhibited whilst the engine is
running.
Seeing as you had no +12v at the coil with key on, I would head straight for
the main relay (underside of fuse box) Sounds to me that the ECU is not
powered up when it dies. - dry joint in the relay.
If you can- check for +5v at one of the engine sensors (pin 1 if its a 3 pin
connector) the next time it quits. If 0v the ECU is not powered.
Either replace the relay, or open it up and resolder the PCB.
Tim..
Marvin42 - 28 Feb 2007 15:04 GMT
> >> > Thanks Tim, I had checked the wiring but not the coil earth - I will
> >> > do that. It's tricky to find a fault that has gone...
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
>
> Tim..
Hi again just an update... the ECU was still powered because it
started the fuel pump briefly when the key was turned. Someone on
another forum suggested the coolant temperature sender - I replaced
that, and the thermostat as well because you have to remove the elbow
to get at the sender, and the car has not broken down for 40 miles so
far (it wouldn't do more than 10 miles before). The only trouble is
that the idle is now down to 550 RPM hot or cold, and it stalls
easily.... I think I'll start by cleaning the idle valve, but what
next? Cheers, Alan