RUN! RUN! RUN! Run away man, are you mad?

I hope this is not a joke because I just spent a week taking mine
apart about 5 times.

What do you want to know?

1st question: Why are you doing this?
2nd question: what are you replacing it with?
3rd question: yes, replace the sock filter

Answer these questions and I'll tell you everything you need to know
to save you from a miserable experience.

Jamie

OK, couple things here:
Start with the main fuel pump. Check the wiring there, often times the
connections to the pump go bare. Make sure this pump is working. Just
'bump' the key each time, meaning, don't let the engine crank more
than one or two times. Just bumping the key will work the pump to
prime the line and you'll get a start. You'll hear the pump whine a
couple seconds after bumping the key.

If you can't hear the main pump, or think it doesn't work, you'll have
to drop the pump assembly to bench test.  Here is what I did. I did
not know how to "jump" the fuses to fire the pump - so I pulled it
out.

1- Disconnect negative battery cable
2- Disconnect the fuel line to the pump. Phillips screw driver.
3- Disconnect the pump wiring.
4- Take a box or something and when you unbolt the 3 12mm screws
holding the rack, it can rest on the box while you undo the last line.
THIS LINE HAS PRESSURE AND SHOULD SPRAY GAS.
5- I use an impact wrench to CAREFULLY loosen the bolt. I only BUMP
the bolt about 1 SECOND and get the drill away in case of spark. I've
done this a dozen times - no problems.
6- After the spray stops, use your hand to unscrew the bolt. Remove
the assembly.

You can now bench test the pump or replace if necessary.  I grabbed a
replacement pump for $35 at the junkyard. Look for the OEM style with
clip on connectors. The bolt on style might be another year or
aftermarket.

If you insist on removing the in-tank assembly, I'll tell you how.
first, I highly recommend you try jumping wires to see if the pump is
working.

Your car should start and idle well even with the in tank assembly
disconnected.

Jamie