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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / May 2007problem with HOT engine
Hi I've got problem with my V740. I've got B200K engine with mechanical ignition and Solex carb. Auto run pretty when cold,but when it's hot it doesn't working well. The whole coolant system is new,all parts,..the engine is new too. When I stay in traffic jam, than is very bad working. The engine works only when is cold, but when is hot is bad. What's wrong?? Can be too poor mixture? and too hot temperature of engine? Thermostat and cooler and coolant liquid are new. The valves are correct. When engine is very hot, it;s sound very strange whet I go 2000 RPM and I push the pedal down, he sound very bad, when it's cold it's sound very good. Please help me,..I don't know what to do.... 99% parts in enegine deprature is new,..the negine too (1700 km now!!!) all the best.... -- Jarek (SQ1EUO) - V740 1988, B200K + LPG sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl GG:1277234 > Hi > I've got problem with my V740. I've got B200K engine with mechanical [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > deprature > is new,..the negine too (1700 km now!!!) 1. Mixture too lean 2. Ignition too late 3. Thermostat bad (or incorrect replaced) 4. Air in the coolant system Could be something else, but... try the 4 above first.  Signature-Knut 940 turbo... >> Hi >> I've got problem with my V740. I've got B200K engine with mechanical [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Could be something else, but... try the 4 above first. I would definitely check the coolant temp sensor, I've come across a couple of bad ones lately, one I got off a straight 740 in a junkyard, makes me think that's probably why the car ended up there in the first place. Apparently it will cause this symptom if it goes open circuit. > >> Hi > >> I've got problem with my V740. I've got B200K engine with mechanical [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > > > 1. Mixture too lean I've think the same > > 2. Ignition too late 10 deeg. > > 3. Thermostat bad (or incorrect replaced) new one > > 4. Air in the coolant system new liquid,..without air -- Jarek (SQ1EUO) - V740 1988, B200K + LPG sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl GG:1277234 > >> Hi > >> I've got problem with my V740. I've got B200K engine with mechanical [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > think that's probably why the car ended up there in the first place. > Apparently it will cause this symptom if it goes open circuit. I think the cooland sensor is OK,....but anyway car goes wrong and engine run bad, The alle cooland system is new (radiator,theromstat, coolant liquid). -- Jarek (SQ1EUO) - V740 1988, B200K + LPG sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl GG:1277234 > Hi > I've got problem with my V740. I've got B200K engine with mechanical [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > sq1...@stud.pam.szczecin.pl > GG:1277234 Since the cooling system was rebuilt, I would suspect an airlock or air bubble in the cooling system. Have the mechanic that did the work check. >> Hi >> I've got problem with my V740. I've got B200K engine with mechanical [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > air bubble in the cooling system. Have the mechanic that did the work > check. But he said it's running poorly when hot, surely if a cooling system problem were to blame, it would have to be hot enough that some major damage is being done for it to start running poorly. [ ... ] >> Since the cooling system was rebuilt, I would suspect an airlock or >> air bubble in the cooling system. Have the mechanic that did the work >> check. >But he said it's running poorly when hot, surely if a cooling system problem >were to blame, it would have to be hot enough that some major damage is >being done for it to start running poorly. Or a coolant sensor is losing contact with the coolant when the thermostat opens. I'd double check that the radiator is full, not just the overflow reservoir. Gary SignatureGary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/ Yoko Onos' former driver tried to extort $2M from her, threating to "release embarassing recordings...". What, he has a copy of her album? > [ ... ] > >> Since the cooling system was rebuilt, I would suspect an airlock or [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > I'd double check that the radiator is full, not just the overflow reservoir. I've checked it. Cooling system is 100% OK. -- Jarek (SQ1EUO) - V740 1988, B200K + LPG sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl GG:1277234 > > [ ... ] > > >> Since the cooling system was rebuilt, I would suspect an airlock or [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > - Show quoted text - How did you check to see if there is an air bubble or air lock in the system? Uzytkownik "Roadie" <hjsjms@cs.com> napisal w wiadomosci : >How did you check to see if there is an air bubble or air lock in the >system? I check "in" hose - it's full on liquid. The radiator have special little hose to take off the air bubble,...it is in highest place of the radiator. -- Jarek (SQ1EUO) - V740 1988, B200K + LPG sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl GG:1277234 > Hi > I've got problem with my V740. I've got B200K engine with mechanical [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl > GG:1277234 Jarek, if I understand correctly it overheats in traffic jams but is okay when you get out on open road? If so, the air flow is probably the problem. You probably have a fan on the water pump that is driven by a finned aluminum "viscous coupler." If that coupler has lost some of the silicone fluid it will be too weak to cool the radiator when the car is at low speed. You can check it by trying to spin the fan by hand with the engine off. If the fan stops within a quarter turn the coupler is working okay, but if it goes more than 1/2 turn it is bad. Between 1/4 and 1/2 turn it is not very good, but it is not the cause of your overheating. I think there is also an electric fan on the front of the radiator; that should be running when the engine gets hot (or maybe with the air conditioning on - I forget which or both). Mike U¿ytkownik "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> napisa³ w wiadomo¶ci : > Jarek, if I understand correctly it overheats in traffic jams but is okay > when you get out on open road? If so, the air flow is probably the problem. No...on open road is also bad,.,...but in trafic jam is horrible. > You probably have a fan on the water pump that is driven by a finned > aluminum "viscous coupler." If that coupler has lost some of the silicone [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > goes more than 1/2 turn it is bad. Between 1/4 and 1/2 turn it is not very > good, but it is not the cause of your overheating. Visco is new, it's 100% OK,...the radiator is't hot in trafic jam,because visco works good. The radiator is also new. > I think there is also an electric fan on the front of the radiator; that > should be running when the engine gets hot (or maybe with the air > conditioning on - I forget which or both). I haven't got electric fan in my car,..only visco, rear radiator. It's look like only up part of the engine, the engine's head is only too hot,..but the block, sensor etc. is OK,..good temp. Can I check the mixture by multimetr and lambda sond ???,...I've got old lambda sond in my out manifold,..because manifold is from injection engine. -- Jarek (SQ1EUO) - V740 1988, B200K + LPG sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl GG:1277234 >> Jarek, if I understand correctly it overheats in traffic jams but is okay >> when you get out on open road? If so, the air flow is probably the > problem. > > No...on open road is also bad,.,...but in trafic jam is horrible. Is the cooling system holding pressure? I've seen a cracked expansion tank cause overheating. > >> Jarek, if I understand correctly it overheats in traffic jams but is okay > >> when you get out on open road? If so, the air flow is probably the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Is the cooling system holding pressure? I've seen a cracked expansion tank > cause overheating. Yes,the pressure is OK,..I've chacked it -- Jarek (SQ1EUO) - V740 1988, B200K + LPG sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl GG:1277234 > U¿ytkownik "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> napisa³ w > wiadomo¶ci : [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > the > block, sensor etc. is OK,..good temp. The radiator is not hot when the cylinder head is hot? Maybe the thermostat was put in upside down? It is not hard to make that mistake. That prevents the thermostat from working right so the hot water can't leave the head. If it's a genuine Volvo thermostat it has a little hole that will let a little water through, but just enough to let the head temperature get to the thermostat when the engine has been cold. U¿ytkownik "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> napisa³ w wiadomo¶ci : > The radiator is not hot when the cylinder head is hot? >Maybe the thermostat > was put in upside down? No it's 100% OK. >It is not hard to make that mistake. That prevents > the thermostat from working right so the hot water can't leave the head. If > it's a genuine Volvo thermostat it has a little hole that will let a little > water through, but just enough to let the head temperature get to the > thermostat when the engine has been cold. Thermostat is new one also,...88 degr. -- Jarek (SQ1EUO) - V740 1988, B200K + LPG sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl GG:1277234 > U¿ytkownik "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> napisa³ w > wiadomo¶ci : [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Thermostat is new one also,...88 degr. If the cylinder head gets extremly hot, it seems to be a problem with either ignition timing or mixture. Check the color of the spark plugs. Run the car for a few minutes until the enginge gets hot. Then unscrew one spark plug and check the color and how the spark plug looks.(Be careful! It's very hot!!!) If you have a Haynes manual for the car, you can find a color chart for spark plugs on one of the last pages in the book. Or try to find it on the Internet. Or this one (for MC's but ok): http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html or this one: http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm This may tell you something about the mixture. Black - Too rich White - Too lean chocolate/grey - ok Broken ceramic around the core - too hot (lean mixture) Theese are the basics. Signature-Knut [ ... ] >If the cylinder head gets extremly hot, it seems to be a problem with either >ignition timing or mixture. If the head was that hot from a mixture/timing issue, the incandescent glow from the exhaust manifold and turbo would give it away. Coolant isn't flowing for some reason; if it's not a reversed thermostat, or failed pump as someone else mentioned, it could be a weak lower radiator hose collapsing under suction. Check by squeezing the hose from under the car; if you can get it nearly flat with your hand, it needs replacing. It may be possible to spot this by watching the lower hose while reving the engine; if it deforms at all, it's bad. >Check the color of the spark plugs. >Run the car for a few minutes until the enginge gets hot. >Then unscrew one spark plug and check the color and how the spark plug >looks.(Be careful! It's very hot!!!) Yikes! No! Never try to remove a spark plug while the head is hot; there is a high probability of damaging the threads in the head. If that happens, the cheap fix is a Helicoil; the expensive fix is a new head. >If you have a Haynes manual for the car, you can find a color chart for >spark plugs on one of the last pages in the book. [ ... ] That color chart applies when the plugs are cold, not hot. Gary SignatureGary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/ Yoko Onos' former driver tried to extort $2M from her, threating to "release embarassing recordings...". What, he has a copy of her album? > Yikes! No! Never try to remove a spark plug while the head is hot; there > is a high probability of damaging the threads in the head. If that > happens, > the cheap fix is a Helicoil; the expensive fix is a new head. Why? The head expands a bit faster than the plugs, usually they're easier to remove when hot. I would however wait for the head to cool before installing them. >> Yikes! No! Never try to remove a spark plug while the head is hot; there >> is a high probability of damaging the threads in the head. If that [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > to remove when hot. I would however wait for the head to cool before > installing them. OTOH, the aluminum is softer and more reactive ("sticky") when hot. Good news, bad news. I stick with cold engines for plug removal and installation, so I can't say whether hot engines are bad. Mike > [ ... ] >>If the cylinder head gets extremly hot, it seems to be a problem with [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > If the head was that hot from a mixture/timing issue, the incandescent > glow from the exhaust manifold and turbo would give it away. Not always. Depends on dimension on the axhaust pipe and pressure in the axhaust system. Turbo or not will also make a difference. But may occure when car is run under heavy load or hard accelleration. Anyway, check for coolant flow in the cylinder head. Possible problem is the coolant pump. Or wrong replaced hoses... >>Check the color of the spark plugs. >>Run the car for a few minutes until the enginge gets hot. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > happens, > the cheap fix is a Helicoil; the expensive fix is a new head. Not that hot... Not red hot. Just so hot that the engine don't run under starting (cold engine) conditions. You can't tell anything from spark plugs run with extra fuel added (starting conditions or cold engine conditions adds extra fuel). >>If you have a Haynes manual for the car, you can find a color chart for >>spark plugs on one of the last pages in the book. > [ ... ] > > That color chart applies when the plugs are cold, not hot. But the pictures are to compare with spark plugs run under normal hot engine conditions. So if you can run the engine so the engine temp rises to normal running conditions. Then stop and wait until the engine gets cold. Takes a few minutes... At least 30. It's ok for me, but it's almost 30 min of wasted time in my eyes... I've removed spark plugs from hundreds of hot engines for more than 25 years now, without any problems. If the spark plugs are tightened with the right torque, it should be no problem. But be careful anyway. If it seems to be stuck, dont use extra force... Wait until the engine gets cold, and try again. Signature-Knut > You can't tell anything from spark plugs run with extra fuel added > (starting conditions or cold engine conditions adds extra fuel). But that's why you want to check the color on the plugs when they are cold. The last time the plugs were used the engine was warm - it is best to do it after some actual driving :-) Mike > U¿ytkownik "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> napisa³ w > wiadomo¶ci : [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > sq1euo@stud.pam.szczecin.pl > GG:1277234 Is the water pump ok? I got a rock in mine once from a junkyard radiator, it jammed the impeller which just spun on the shaft so things looked fine from the outside but no water was being pumped. |
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