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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / July 2007'98 V70 AWD rear brake pad
I had a scraping sound coming from the right rear wheel when I pulled out of my driveway the other day and it appears that the pad behind the rotor is out of place. So, I will be pulling the wheel today to investigate further. The brake system appears to be disk, but I've read elsewhere about a "combined" system on some Volvos. I do not want to attempt to drive it to the local garage, due to the friction between the pad and the rotor. Is it pretty straightforward to remove the rotor for replacement (if it is warped) and replace the pads, or are there any surprises or complications that I need to account for ahead of time? Any advice would be appreciated. TIA, Dave On May 19, 9:06 am, "tom_sawye...@yahoo.com" <tom_sawye...@yahoo.com> wrote: > I had a scraping sound coming from the right rear wheel when I pulled > out of my driveway the other day and it appears that the pad behind [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > TIA, > Dave As a follow up, is there any chance that the pad that I am seeing is the emergency brake pad and not the regular brake pad? On May 19, 10:04 am, "tom_sawye...@yahoo.com" <tom_sawye...@yahoo.com> wrote: > As a follow up, is there any chance that the pad that I am seeing is > the emergency brake pad and not the regular brake pad? Are the rear rotors on a 98 V70 free-floating or do I need to get a tool to unscrew the nut from the spindle (something that I'm weary of doing)? TIA > On May 19, 10:04 am, "tom_sawye...@yahoo.com" <tom_sawye...@yahoo.com> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > TIA The emergency brake is a drum unit under (?) the rotor. It is used only for the E brake. As I recall, a metric allen wrench is used to remove the brake caliper. The rotor is held on by a small bolt (10 mm wrench) which may have an extention on it to locate the wheel. Take of the bolt and the rotor should be free. A tap with a hammer may be necessary to loosen it from the corrosion holding it to the axle. HTH > The emergency brake is a drum unit under (?) the rotor. It is used only > for the E brake. As I recall, a metric allen wrench is used to remove [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > loosen it from the corrosion holding it to the axle. > HTH Just to be clear...aside from that 10mm bolt that you mention, I should not need to loosen the nut on the spindle in the center of the rotor? When I put the wheel back on the car, there is an extended post from the rotor that aligns with a specific space on the wheel such that there is only one way the wheel will properly mount. Is that the bolt that you are referencing? I apologize for the simplistic questions. I just want to be sure that I am clear about what you are telling me. I appreciate your reply. Dave Follow up... I identified the 10mm nut from dlee's post and was finally able to get the caliper bracket free. I looked at rotors on the net and saw that mine did not require the nut on the center spindle to be removed. So after several applications of rust-busting solvent and the use of a mallet, I was able to get the rotor off. The debris behind the rotor was a combination of the inner rotor sleeve, as well as one shoe of the e-brake system. I cleared the debris and re-assembled, knowing that I would not be able to finish this evening. While disassembled, I had a center hub with what I had read about before...a disc brake system with drum e-brakes. Can I get a drum kit for the springs, etc., and fix the e-brake system without disassembling the center nut on the spindle, or am I going to get in over my head? I understand how to disassemble and re-assemble basic drum brakes, but I've never seen the combo system before, or a set with a center hub. My other question is with regard to the e-brake system as it currently stands. We do not really use the e-brake for braking purposes. I use it out of habit, due to growing up in a very hilly area, but we live in a generally flat area now. On an AWD, does the e-brake system pressure drum brakes on all four wheels, or just the rear? TIA. Dave > Follow up... > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > TIA. > Dave Yes you can purchase the brake shoes & all of the hardware & no you do not touch the hub nut> Be advised that the dealer most likely will only stock the shoe kit (both sides ) & will have to order you the springs you may need the clip is what usually brakes Glenn K Volvo Certified Technician ASE certified Technician  Signature" Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new" -- Albert Einstein > Yes you can purchase the brake shoes & all of the hardware & no you do > not touch the hub nut> Be advised that the dealer most likely will only [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > " Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new" > -- Albert Einstein- Hide quoted text - Glenn, Thank you for the reply. I will look into getting the springs, etc. If my memory is correct, there didn't appear to be much overlap of the springs, but I will still take pictures, before touching them. To your sig quote, I was simply happy to get the wheel, calipers and rotor off and re-assembled without having to have the car towed. :-) Thanks again, Dave > Yes you can purchase thebrakeshoes & all of the hardware & no you do > not touch the hub nut> Be advised that the dealer most likely will only > stock the shoe kit (both sides ) & will have to order you the springs > you may need the clip is what usually brakes Just to follow up on this...the new rotor was easily replaced, however the drum brake shoes are too thick for the new rotor to go on. We even tried to combine the old shoe with a new one, but could not get the drum over the new pads. We checked that the parking brake was released, the pads and adjuster were properly seated, and that everything was centered, but were not able to get the new rotor over the new shoes. Is there a tip on how to do this? We ended up putting the old shoe pair back on with the new rotor. We're taking it to a mechanic on Tuesday to look at something else and I'll ask him to take a look. Filing down the pads seemed like a bad idea. >> Yes you can purchase thebrakeshoes & all of the hardware & no you do >> not touch the hub nut> Be advised that the dealer most likely will only [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Tuesday to look at something else and I'll ask him to take a look. > Filing down the pads seemed like a bad idea. In the center console remove the small cover & there you will see the adjuster for the brake cables back this all the way off this should help also make sure that if there is a adjuster in between the shoes that this is also turned all the way in Glenn K ASE Certified Technician Volvo Certified Technician Signature" Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new" -- Albert Einstein > In the center console remove the small cover & there you will see the > adjuster for the brake cables back this all the way off this should help [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > ASE Certified Technician > Volvo Certified Technician I adjusted the adjuster at the pads all the way in, but did not know about the one at the console. However, the parking brake was slack when I had the pads off the car earlier today...such that there was no tension in the cable that went in between the parking brake pads. One question that I'd like to ask is that rather than take the entire wheel, etc., apart again, would the adjuster in the console adjust the parking brake so that rather than it being useless, it would hold the car on a slope? Or do I need to further adjust the cable elsewhere? > One question that I'd like to ask is that rather than take the entire > wheel, etc., apart again, would the adjuster in the console adjust the > parking brake so that rather than it being useless, it would hold the > car on a slope? Or do I need to further adjust the cable elsewhere? On my '01 V70 XC, the hand brake works very well. I use it a red lights on hills rather than the foot brake. The adjustment doesn't make the brake work better, it gives you the correct amount of travel. If you can pull you lever all the way up, then it is not adjusted correctly. If you can pull the lever so that is pulls tight, the adjustment won't buy you anything. One thing, for some reason the hand brake is more effective at keeping the car from rolling backwards than forwards. Don't ask me why. SignatureCheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA, USA Owned '67,'68,'71,'74,'79,'81,'87,'93,'95 & '01 Volvos. The '67,'74,'79,'87,'95 and '01 through European Delivery. http://rhodyman.net/homevo.html > One thing, for some reason the hand brake is more effective at keeping > the car from rolling backwards than forwards. Don't ask me why. Leading / trailing shoes ? Nick > In the center console remove the small cover & there you will see the > adjuster for the brake cables back this all the way off this should help [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > ASE Certified Technician > Volvo Certified Technician Is it common that the rotor drum does not fit over new pads? I still have the old rotor, which has obvious wear on it, and the drum will not go over the new pads either, not even with a nudge from a mallet. It seems odd that adjusting the pads would make such a substantial difference with slack in the line to begin with. TIA, Dave > > In the center console remove the small cover & there you will see the > > adjuster for the brake cables back this all the way off this should help [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > TIA, > Dave With all the trouble you are having are you sure you have the correct pads? It sounds like they are for a car with larger diameter rotors. I have a '99 Jetta that I was replacing the front rotor and pads on. The new rotors they gave me were about 2" larger diameter than the ones on my car. Turns out some of the Jettas that year got the brakes off the Golf. Go figure. Just a thought. > With all the trouble you are having are you sure you have the correct pads? > It sounds like they are for a car with larger diameter rotors. I have a '99 > Jetta that I was replacing the front rotor and pads on. The new rotors they > gave me were about 2" larger diameter than the ones on my car. Turns out > some of the Jettas that year got the brakes off the Golf. Go figure. The mechanical/hand bakes use shoes, not pads. The inside of the rotor that the shoes use is called a drum and they are drum brakes. Shoes and drums. The hydraulic brakes use rotors and pads and are called disc brakes. The rotor is a combination rotor/drum. SignatureCheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA, USA Owned '67,'68,'71,'74,'79,'81,'87,'93,'95 & '01 Volvos. The '67,'74,'79,'87,'95 and '01 through European Delivery. http://rhodyman.net/homevo.html > > With all the trouble you are having are you sure you have the correct pads? > > It sounds like they are for a car with larger diameter rotors. I have a '99 [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > The rotor is a combination rotor/drum. Thank you Steve, I am well aware of all that :) I was just trying to point out how easy it is to get handed the wrong parts. Allen In an earlier contribution to this discussion, >> In the center console remove the small cover & there you will see the >> adjuster for the brake cables back this all the way off this should [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > TIA, > Dave By how much will they not go? In other words, what is the diameter across the linings when fitted, and what is the ID of the brake drum? If the difference is large (say >5mm) the chances are that one or other is the wrong part.[1] If the difference is small (~1mm), the chances are that you haven't fitted the shoes properly. Are you sure that the adjuster is adjusted to its *minimum* length, and that the bits on the end are pushed fully onto the webs of the shoes? Are you sure that the curves of the shoes are centred on the hub axis? [You may have to tap the shoes one way or the other to make sure that they're centred on the drums]. [1] If, with neither the shoes nor the drum fitted to the car, you offer up a shoe to the inside of the drum, does it fit snugly all round the lining, or does it only touch at the ends - with a big gap in the middle? SignatureCheers, Roger ______ Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks. PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP! > By how much will they not go? In other words, what is the diameter across > the linings when fitted, and what is the ID of the brake drum? If the [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Cheers, > Roger I can easily check the adjuster, which is at minimum length, and that the shoes are centered. Actually, there is some movement with the shoes, as there are metal clips that hold the shoes that has some play, but regardless, the diameter of the rotor does not clear the shoes. I don't have a method to accurately measure the ID, but am more inclined to say that the new pads might be the problem because the old rotor (which has wear) does not clear the pads either. I didn't think to try your suggestion to fit the new pad in the new rotor. I'll test that and reply back. On Jul 9, 8:05 am, "tom_sawye...@yahoo.com" <tom_sawye...@yahoo.com> wrote: > I can easily check the adjuster, which is at minimum length, and that > the shoes are centered. Actually, there is some movement with the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I didn't think to try your suggestion to fit the new pad in the new > rotor. I'll test that and reply back. The new pads fit into the new and old rotor. I wasn't aware of this, but my wife had made an appointment with our mechanic for her AC, so I'm going to have him take a look at it. I'll reply back, in case this happens to anyone else. I appreciate the replies and am glad to have at least learned a bit in this task. Thank you. Dave In an earlier contribution to this discussion, > The new pads fit into the new and old rotor. I wasn't aware of this, > but my wife had made > an appointment with our mechanic for her AC, so I'm going to have him > take a look at it. In that case, unless there two different designs of shoe with the same diameter, and you have the wrong ones (unlikely!), there's something wrong with the way in which you're trying to fit them - which is holding them further apart than they should be. BTW, *please* try to use the right terminology for the sake of other readers. As has already been pointed out by someone else, what you have are brake *shoes* - not pads, and they fit inside *drums* - not rotors. [The rear brakes on your car are in fact *two* separate braking systems - disc brakes with hydraulically operated pads to stop you, and drum brakes with manually operated shoes (via the hand-brake lever) for parking. It's the drum (parking) brakes which are the subject of the discussion. OK, the disc (rotor) for the disc brakes happens to be made from the same bit of metal as the drum for the parking brakes - but that's beside the point!] SignatureCheers, Roger ______ Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks. PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP! > BTW, *please* try to use the right terminology for the sake of other > readers. As has already been pointed out by someone else, what you have are [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > metal as the drum for the parking brakes - but that's beside the point!] > -- I apologize for the incorrect terminology and will be more proper in the future. The mechanic was unable to get to the brakes and drum this morning, but we will be revisiting soon to have the evaporator core replaced for the AC and I'll see if we can get it looked at then. In the meantime, I'm going to look at the cable adjuster in the console to see if that makes a difference. Thank you. Dave |
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