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Car Forum / Volvo Cars / November 2007Help!!!! 91 940 Turbo / B230F water pump / Crank pulley
My water pump started to make noises... so I decided to change it. I've got some experience, I did a body-off resto on a 145, and did all the regular maintenance on a 81 240 before it got totaled...... (anybody need some new-in-the-box CIS injectors?) So I pulled the fan shroud, then the fan and clutch together, then the top half of the timing belt cover.... Got the pump off, but dropped one of the little nuts down inside the timing belt cover bottom half. Tried to use a string and magnet to recover it and the magnet dropped down inside it as well !!! Does someone have an idea on how toI get the nut and magnet out? Looking at the engine suggests to me that pulling the bottom of the timing belt cover means that the crank pulley has to come off... So what's the magic incantation to pull the crank pulley? I've got the proper socket and a breaker bar, but how do you hold the crank in place?? The pulley has one big bolt and some slots... the book shows 4 small bolts and one big bolt. Previous engines on Fords, Chevys, AMCs and Opels have all had fairly obvious methods... Thanks in advance... BTW, I found this page <http://cvolvo.com/Central/Repair/B230.html>, which warns about dropping a nut... AFTER I dropped the nut inside the timing chain cover.... Mike > My water pump started to make noises... so I decided to change it. > I've got some experience, I did a body-off resto on a 145, and [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > Mike Go to a hardwarestore and buy a screwdriver with a pickupmagnet. like this one : http://www.clasohlson.no/Archive/Images/Products/Hi/309881_X_2007-07-04_132424_6 96.jpg I've used it once! Jan-Erik > My water pump started to make noises... so I decided to change it. > I've got some experience, I did a body-off resto on a 145, and [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > Mike If the transmission is a manual, you can put it in high gear and have somebody hold the brakes. Ours is an auto and I had a helper hold a screwdriver jammed in the ring teeth on the flywheel. Eons ago somebody posted a link for a genuine holder but I don't seem to have that link. To break the crank bolt loose I put the socket handle on a floor jack and started lifting. The front wheels were nearly off the ground before the bolt started to give. If you're going that far, consider replacing the timing belt. Mike OK, I used Michael Pardee's jack trick and broke the crank bolt loose, pulled the crank off, the lower half of the timing cover off, got the magnet and nut out, and bought a new timing belt. Anybody have any suggestions on the right way to change the belt? Or how to tighten the crank bolt? (it's an automatic) You mentioned holding a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth... is that from the bottom, the side, where? Thanks too all for the help this far... Mike > OK, I used Michael Pardee's jack trick and broke the crank bolt loose, > pulled the crank off, the lower half of the timing cover off, got the [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Mike The belt is relatively easy, but you should really have the manual for this job, as getting it wrong will really break the engine. You need to match up the white dot on the gears with the lines on the belt and the fixed marks behind the pullies. The bottom one is the hardest as you have to wrap the belt around the gear before fully lacing up, the gear mark is often on the washer so you have to keep that on, then the mark on the casing is difficult to find, covered in oil/dirt or just confising. The tension wheel is lossened off at the start and compessed by hand and a small rod or screwdriver inserted in the hole which is exposed, then the tensioner can be removed. To reset slacken off and retighten to clamp bolt. Remove the cover at the bottom in front of the bell housing to see the bottom half of the ring gear/flywheel. Working under the car on axle stands you can jam the ring gear with a screw driver against the bell bousing and torque up the crank pulley with the other hand. Take up the tension, that should hold the screw driver in place, then transfer that hand to the torque wrench, I think it needs 110ft.lbs but don't have my manual to hand. -- TOny >> OK, I used Michael Pardee's jack trick and broke the crank bolt loose, >> pulled the crank off, the lower half of the timing cover off, got the [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > -- This is a non-interference engine (despite what some manuals will tell you) so getting it wrong won't break the engine, but it will run amazingly poorly, if at all, if you get it misaligned by even one tooth. I have previously had luck with sucking up lost parts with a vacuumcleaner and a smaller piece of hose ind the end of it. Greetings Niels |
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