Dave the 66 is the last year of the glass over headlights (sloping
ones)
Rag top modles would be 63 down were the parts are harder to find and
more expensive.
57 was the last yr oval with W decklid.
you will want to go with a CB performance drop spindle disc conversion
front end kit.
I would think you would be better off with a street 1776 or build a
2110 T1 not that the T4 conversions arn't cool, it just that you
should beable to get all the power you need with out major changes.
Mario
Al Adams - 12 May 2008 13:40 GMT
I'm not certain, but I think that the headlights might have changed after
'67 on the UK (and/or European) edition, unlike the North American version,
which changed after '66. I'm basing this assumption on a metal T-1 model
that I have somewhere that is designated a '67, has the sloping headlights,
and 'non-towel bar' bumpers.
Al Adams
> Dave the 66 is the last year of the glass over headlights (sloping
> ones)
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Mario
Dave Angel - 12 May 2008 15:26 GMT
> I'm not certain, but I think that the headlights might have changed after
> '67 on the UK (and/or European) edition, unlike the North American version,
> which changed after '66. I'm basing this assumption on a metal T-1 model
> that I have somewhere that is designated a '67, has the sloping headlights,
> and 'non-towel bar' bumpers.
Ah ha! That could explain things. I have spotted a 1967 bug which
looks like a 1966 (and has been converted manually from 6 to 12 volt)
which would leave me to believe that perhaps this could be the case...
Thanks
Al Adams - 12 May 2008 15:52 GMT
Regarding your question about RHD ovals: they do exist. I remember a few
years back seeing the critical bits one would need to convert a LHD model to
RHD from a parted-out oval at a swap meet here in the US.
As far as disk brakes go, I think that the European model T-1 came with
disks starting in '68. North American T-1s retained the front drum brakes
right until the end.
If you're looking for a sunroof T-1, you might consider the '64 and later
metal sunroof models. Although not as sexy as the big cloth ones from
earlier years, parts are a bit easier to come by (and cheaper) and, from the
front seats at least, you still get a great 'open air' experience!
Al Adams
>> I'm not certain, but I think that the headlights might have changed after
>> '67 on the UK (and/or European) edition, unlike the North American
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Thanks
a-nony-mouse - 12 May 2008 20:43 GMT
67 was the change over year. the lights changed during the model run
> I'm not certain, but I think that the headlights might have changed after
> '67 on the UK (and/or European) edition, unlike the North American
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>>
>> Mario
I'll chime in with some Euro spec stuff, seeing as how you are in the
UK. VW's sold in the US market were not exactly the same.
> - What year did the front lights change from the nice sloping ones to
> the horrible vertical ones?
1968 was the first Euro beetle to get upright headlights.
> - What year did disk brakes come in?
Those were only available in the 1302S and 1303S models, along with the
1600cc dual port engine. I believe those started around 73 (flat
windscreed super beetles started in 71 I think, but no discs yet?)
> - Did the Oval window come in RHD at all? Or are they all LHD? How
> rare are they now?
I'm sure they did make them both ways.
You can still find them for sale, but they are very desirable and
somewhat rare.
> - What's with the ragtop models? Were they fitted as an optional
> extra? Are they more desirable, noisy etc?
Those were factory made. More desirable and rare, yes. The actual
convertibles were more quiet than the steel roofed sedans, some say,
because of the extra padding and no resonating metal. Some say they were
warmer too in the winter, due to better insulation. I dunno.
> - Are replacement parts harder/more expensive on older models like the
> 1966?
Not really, not so much it would make a difference. Unless you go way
old, early 50's and stuff. 60's parts are easy to find, even new. (Poor
quality repros, usually)
> - When did the 'w' engine lid change to a 'semi-w' and then the
> horrible flat one?
Brainfart, can't remember
> - I would like to lower the car. I understand that the rear is quite
> simple, but the front is more difficult. I am not interested in going
> ridiculously low. I would like the pre 1966 wheels (without the
> holes) with whitewall tyres.
Dropped spindles are a safe way to lower the front some 2" or so, or was
it 2.5... steering geometry doesn't change with those, so no other mods
are needed. In addition, if you plan on installing disc brakes, you will
need to get disc brake spindles anyway. Two birds with one stone... get
disc brake DROP spindles and you get a lower front AND you can mount
factory discs up front. (From a 1300S beetle, 1500 beetle, or Karmann
Ghia - they are all virtually the same.) Bearing sizes may differ and
brake pads may be different between different caliper models. There's
one pin and two pin calipers out there.
> - In terms of engine, I have driven a stock 1600 before and it was not
> enough. Is it worth tuning a stock engine, or going for a 2.0l Type 4
> engine conversion? I am not after blistering performance, but want
> something a bit beefier than the stock 1600.
There are countless ways to more power. A T4 conversion is expensive and
requires a little more work than souping up the 1600. Each can be made
just as powerful. As a rule of thumb, the T4 lasts longer and is a very
strong candidate for big torque, and power up to 150hp. For power closer
to and beyond 200hp, the T1 kind of takes the lead.
PARTS are expensive for the type 4, and not as easily available as they
are for the T1.
Having built up both, I would recommend a T1 1600 based engine for your
needs.
So now that we have limited our base engine choice to the 1600 T1, you
need to decide some basic things about the nature of the beast.
You can keep the engine a 1600cc, and just make it produce more power.
That means the engine will need to rev higher to make the power.
OR you can make the engine bigger, and make more power at lower rpms.
This is generally more driveable, and reliable way to more power.
OR you can do both, if you get real power hungry. :D
A sensible 1600cc street engine would make roughly 75hp.
With bigger cylinders, you can get 1776cc or 1914cc reliably. Expect to
get around 100hp or a hair more from a conservative daily driver state
of tune. Better torque than what you'd get from a 1600 even if it made
the same power.
You can also get a stroker crankshaft, those would bump the displacement
even bigger, in several various combinations with different cylinder
sizes. You can go all crazy and get close to 3000cc, but that's not for
a beginner.... lol. Let's say around 2300cc is still relatively easy, in
terms of stroker building. (Which is always a great deal more difficult
and detail dependent than just fitting bigger pistons and cyls)
One more alternative for more power is Turbocharging. You can buy
complete kits that contain almost everything you need, designed for a
1600cc base engine. It would drive like a stocker, until you gave it
enough gas to get the turbo going, then it would make a LOT more power.
Easy driveability and good fuel economy with a light foot, but nice
power boost on command for when you need it.
Of course, you start craving for more power after each engine build, and
you'll eventually end up with a 3 liter turbo or a Subaru STi transplant
in the future with 600hp..
:D
What I', trying to say is, there is almost no limit to what you can do,
engine wise.
Jan
> Thanks in advance for help with any of the above.
Dave Angel - 13 May 2008 06:34 GMT
Thanks for this Jan, this is exactly what I needed to know. I was
thinking about the T4 route, but now not so sure. I just want
something a bit more powerful, but don't want to spend £1000's.
Definately low down grunt is needed. I like the sound of a turbo in
the future perhaps...
Jeff DeWitt - 14 May 2008 00:08 GMT
> I'll chime in with some Euro spec stuff, seeing as how you are in the
> UK. VW's sold in the US market were not exactly the same.
[quoted text clipped - 113 lines]
>
>> Thanks in advance for help with any of the above.
Your just demonstrating the old rule "How fast can you afford to go?" <G>
Jeff DeWitt
Dave Angel.. do you have 2 accounts on here?
> Can someone please help with the following questions about buying a UK
> beetle. I am ideally after a 1966 or below (I think!) mainly due to
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Thanks in advance for help with any of the above.