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Car Forum / Volkswagen / Water Cooled Volkswagen Cars / October 2006Volkswagen VW Passat Wiper Blade Style, Beginning 2002 Model Year
Beginning sometime during the 2002 model year, VW changed the (front) wiper blades on the VW Passat models. I have a 2004 VW Passat. Re this new style VW OEM wiper blade set: * They're aerodynamic; and apart from the important limitation below (see last bullet item), they're well-designed. * They're made by Bosch. * The L (driver-side) blade and R blade are not interchangeable. The lengths are identical, but the center section of each blade is in a different location. (BTW, in no way does this make the wipers operate better. VW could have located each center section in the same place, but they didn't; clearly for "marketing" reasons.) * They're very similar to the Bosch Icon (tm) wiper blades, available at many auto parts stores. * However, they're not compatible with the Bosch Icon wiper blades; no Bosch Icon size will fit. Apparently this is due to a "conspiracy" (as Jack Nicholson would say) between VW and Bosch. * Furthermore, no after-market wiper blade manufacturer (this includes Ansco and Michelin) makes a compatible wiper blade set. * A new VW wiper blade set, bought at a VW dealer, will cost $60 to $90; if bought at a VW internet parts retailer (for example vw-parts- direct.com), a set will cost about $28. * VW says that the wiper blade insert (the rubber part that contacts the windshield and wears out) is not replaceable; but this is not true. Well, $28 plus shipping and handling is pretty much my outer limit-cost for replacing this silly little WEAR ITEM on an automobile. And $90? Come on, VW, what's going on with that? Plus, is it good for the environment to replace THE ENTIRE WIPER BLADE (the metal assembly) every time the rubber part wears out? I don't think so. In the past, I've replaced wiper blade inserts more often than once per year. By the way, wasn't Volkswagen AG the German company that got started BECAUSE THEY WANTED TO BUILD A PEOPLE'S CAR? Yes; that was in 1936. And now 70 years later, they're getting some Americans to pay $90 once a year (or more often) to replace the wiper blade inserts on their "people's car". (Volks= people's; Wagen= car.) So if anyone is interested, below are instructions for replacing these VW Passat wiper blade inserts by using easily obtained after-market wiper blade inserts. * Buy 2 quality wiper blade inserts, each size 22 inch. Be sure that the type you buy is the "standard" type. I saw a very low-priced brand at Wal-Mart that was unusually narrow and would not have worked. In fact, recently at Wal-Mart I saw that there were NO standard-size wiper blade inserts for sale (only wiper blades). So I bought 2 Michelin wiper blades, each size 22 inch; for about $7 each. (Although I haven't priced them yet, I'm sure that at any auto parts store, a quality after-market wiper blade insert in this size will cost less than $4.) * Remove the 2 wiper blades from the VW Passat. This is extremely easy to do and requires no tools. (See the owner's manual if you feel you need to.) * It's a good idea to do most of the remaining steps indoors; in a kitchen, for example, because a water source will be helpful. * For each wiper blade, do the following. * Remove each of the 2 plastic end caps by doing the following. While looking at the bottom of the wiper blade, insert a medium-size slotted screwdriver at the junction of the end cap and the metal blade. Gently rotate the screwdriver. The end cap should easily pop off. * Note that one end of the wiper blade has a small metal stop, to prevent the wiper blade insert from traveling any further along the blade; so you'll want to remove the wiper blade insert from the other end of the blade, the end that has no such stop. * Remove the old wiper blade insert by first moving it back and forth, lengthwise, to loosen it from the blade. After a little effort, it should finally release, mainly with a pulling motion. It may tear. Obviously that's no big deal; you'll be replacing it. * If you purchased the new wiper blade insert as part of a complete wiper blade, then remove it from its wiper blade. If there are any metal stiffeners (usually made of stainless steel), remove these too. You should now have a wiper blade insert (without any metal) ready to install in the VW OEM wiper blade. * Use cold-water (easily obtainable from a faucet) to wet both the VW wiper blade and the new wiper blade insert. If this is not done, you probably won't be able to install the insert into the blade. (It shouldn't be necessary to use a lubricant besides water. If a different lubricant is used, be sure it's safe to use on rubber. Eg silicone lubricant spray, or glycerin.) * The new wiper blade insert will almost certainly have a "fat" end, which is meant to pop into the metal clip of a standard wiper blade. Later, you'll cut this end off (see below); so make sure this is the last part you insert into the wiper blade. * Push the wiper blade insert into the open end of the wiper blade (the end that has no metal stop; see above); then see if you can pull the insert onto the blade; you probably won't be able to. If this is true, then work the insert into the blade by alternately pushing and pulling it (ie "snaking" it in). Be careful to not tear the insert. You may want to re-wet both the blade and the insert. * Once you've put all but the last 3 inches or so of the insert into the blade, use an appropriate tool (eg sharp scissors) to cut off the last 1.75 inch of the insert. * Push/pull all of the insert into the blade. If necessary, cut off some more of the insert. The insert is the correct length if it's about as long (or a bit shorter or longer) than the distance from the metal stop at one end of the blade to the other end of the metal blade. This is because the plastic end caps add a bit of distance. * If necessary, for each of the 2 rubber airfoils on the VW OEM wiper blade, re-insert the center end into the center section of the wiper blade. * Install each of the 2 plastic end caps. * Repeat some of the above steps (as appropriate) for the other blade. * Install the 2 wiper blades on the car. As mentioned above, although each blade is the same length, the blades are not interchangeable, because the center section of each blade is in a different location. (If you mistakenly install the L blade on the R arm, its R end will extend past the R edge of the windshield.) That's all. And now, in exchange for about 20 minutes of errand time (to get the wiper blade inserts) and 20 minutes of do-it-yourselfing (combined with some frustration), you now have brand-new, quality wiper blade inserts in your VW OEM wiper blades; and you've saved yourself $20 to $72. > * Use cold-water (easily obtainable from a faucet) to wet both the VW > wiper blade and the new wiper blade insert. If this is not done, you > probably won't be able to install the insert into the blade. (It > shouldn't be necessary to use a lubricant besides water. If a different > lubricant is used, be sure it's safe to use on rubber. Eg silicone > lubricant spray, or glycerin.) "Dish-washing soap." Sux, doesn't it... and VW isn't the only car maker with the hi $$$ wiper blade. I didn't like the price on the pre 2002 blades so I buy mine at the local auto parts which sells ANCO. > Beginning sometime during the 2002 model year, VW changed the (front) > wiper blades on the VW Passat models. I have a 2004 VW Passat. Re this [quoted text clipped - 112 lines] > blade inserts in your VW OEM wiper blades; and you've saved yourself $20 > to $72. Or buy these at $18 for the pair,shipped, instructions included: http://www.dubstopimports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=629X90010 > Beginning sometime during the 2002 model year, VW changed the (front) > wiper blades on the VW Passat models. I have a 2004 VW Passat. Re this [quoted text clipped - 112 lines] > blade inserts in your VW OEM wiper blades; and you've saved yourself $20 > to $72. Or buy these at $18 for the pair,shipped, instructions included: http://www.dubstopimports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=629X90010 > Beginning sometime during the 2002 model year, VW changed the (front) > wiper blades on the VW Passat models. I have a 2004 VW Passat. Re this [quoted text clipped - 112 lines] > blade inserts in your VW OEM wiper blades; and you've saved yourself $20 > to $72. >* Buy 2 quality wiper blade inserts, each size 22 inch. Be sure that the >type you buy is the "standard" type. I saw a very low-priced brand at >Wal-Mart that was unusually narrow and would not have worked. since the late 1980s there have been at least two widths of wiper inserts/refills...standard and narrow. I think today there might even be a 3rd width available. >In fact, recently at Wal-Mart I saw that there were NO standard-size wiper >blade inserts for sale (only wiper blades). Inserts/refills are a dying product, unfortunately. With the variation in widths, the variation in lengths (it's very common today for cars to have a short arm/long blade on the driver's side and a longer arm/shorter blade on the passenger side), and now even a variation in the claws on the metal frame (trapezoidal vs. square claws), finding the *right* insert (even if any are on the shelf) is an exercise in frustration. I hate buying the whole frame too but it's becoming harder and harder to do otherwise. > Beginning sometime during the 2002 model year, VW changed the (front) > wiper blades on the VW Passat models. I have a 2004 VW Passat. Re this [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > * VW says that the wiper blade insert (the rubber part that contacts > the windshield and wears out) is not replaceable; but this is not true. Welcome to the warped world of Volkswagon!! Where even common fluid like Antifreeze, Power Steering fluid and goodness knows what else, is *custom* VW and is difficult if not impossible to obtain outside of VW. As a former owner of the original 1984 GTI, (sold in 1991) I was planning to purchase a brand new 2007 VW GTI. That was until the water pump in my daughters 2003 Jetta exploded and I had to replace it, along with the timing belt, tensioner, serpentine belt etc. That was also when I discovered all about the *custom* fluids, stretch bolts etc that VW uses... It's amazing how VW can over-engineer the fluids with all of this expensive synthetic blend stuff, but at the same time puts a pressed on plastic impeller on a water pump and then buries the pump essentially inside the engine. BTW this same POS is installed in some Audis as well.... I've been working on my own cars for at least 25 years and IMHO VW makes it very difficult, and EXPENSIVE to maintain their cars. Bottom line is I purchased a good old Ford Mustang GT with a nice V8 that is user friendly and inexpensive to work on. It also has a huge amount of aftermarket parts at dirt cheap prices. Superior German engineering? Hahahaha! How long were they using Vacuum assisted door locks before finally switching to motors/solenoids like everyone else uses. It's more like German OVER ENGINEERING designed to milk the consumer when something breaks. I'll give VW one thing. The cars are extremely well constructed safety wise. They are one of the best in that area. > Welcome to the warped world of Volkswagon!! > > Where even common fluid like Antifreeze, Power Steering fluid and goodness > knows what else, is *custom* VW and is difficult if not impossible to > obtain outside of VW. Only mildly difficult, and certainly not impossible. With a little initiative, you can find compatible items that cost a fraction of the VW product. My most recent encounter with this was the VW-spec gear oil to go in my manual transmission -- holy cats, almost $40 per liter at the dealer! Tranny takes two liters. Oy. But, never fear, like I said, a little investigating reveals that the only things special about the VW oil is that it's synthetic, it's GL-4, and it's 75W90. Red Line MT-90 is all of those things, and it's a little under $8 per liter. Guess which I bought? It's not a bad thing that the lubes and fluids that VW recommends are always the highest-quality available -- they insist on top-notch synthetic lubes, the highest-quality phosphate-free coolant, etc. That's okay! It's good for the car. But, there are always cheaper alternatives that are only a little less good for the car. You don't have to use VW G12 coolant, if you don't want to, but you've got to be sure not to mix it with other kinds. Some of these items are intended never to need replacement, so it makes sense to spec the best stuff. > That was until the water pump in my daughters 2003 Jetta exploded and I > had to replace it, along with the timing belt, tensioner, serpentine belt > etc. The mystery to me is that after it became fairly well-known that the plastic impellers were failing at a high rate, they didn't change the design for subsequent years. There's nothing wrong with plastic water pump impellers, per se, but the pump has to be well-designed, no matter what the materials used. So many of those items are designed by the suppliers, not VW -- when they hit a bad batch, it reflects poorly on VW -- just like all those bad mass airflow sensors provided by Bosch. > That was also when I discovered all about the *custom* fluids, stretch > bolts etc that VW uses... I think you'll agree that any manufacturer has its own custom specs for parts -- as much sense as it would make, all car parts are not standardized. Stretch bolts are not uncommon, and heck yeah, you'd better use the right ones! > Superior German engineering? > Hahahaha! German engineers have been known to over-engineer cars since they were first invented. Mercedes-Benz designed an engine in the '50s with a valve train so elaborate that it couldn't overcome its own internal friction. Engines like the slant-six weren't fancy, but by God, they ran and ran and ran, and repairing them was easy and cheap. Unfortunately, no manufacturer makes engines that simple, cheap and easy to repair anymore. Even your Mustang is a complicated piece, and Ford specs its own replacement parts and lubes -- I bet you'll just buy your own parts, irrespective of Ford's specs, won't you? You could do the same with your VW. >> Where even common fluid like Antifreeze, Power Steering fluid and >> goodness [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > initiative, you can find compatible items that cost a fraction of the VW > product. You mean, like 5W40 505.01 engine oil, for instance? Which AFAIK you can't get locally from any store and have to buy online, and is only made by a couple of companies like Motul and Lubro-Moly? -- Mike Smith >>> Where even common fluid like Antifreeze, Power Steering fluid and >>> goodness [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > you can't get locally from any store and have to buy online, and is > only made by a couple of companies like Motul and Lubro-Moly? There's also Elf, Castrol and even AMSOIL claims to have one.  SignatureBert Hyman | St. Paul, MN | bert@iphouse.com >>>> Where even common fluid like Antifreeze, Power Steering fluid and >>>> goodness [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > There's also Elf, Castrol and even AMSOIL claims to have one. Yes, I know about the Elf and Castrol. AMSOIL claims to have one, but IIRC they can't be bothered to do the actual tests. In any case, you can't exactly get these oils at your local Wal-Mart, can you? You still have to go to Impex or some other online specialty shop. I decided to screw it and go with Mobil 1 0W40 instead, which is only 505.00 but is available at the local AutoZone. -- Mike Smith > You mean, like 5W40 505.01 engine oil, for instance? Which AFAIK you > can't get locally from any store and have to buy online, and is only > made by a couple of companies like Motul and Lubro-Moly? Okay, I don't mean to sound snide, but what did I say? Take a little initiative and find an equivalent product -- the 505.01 oils are 5W40 weight, and are Group IV synthetics. That's what distinguishes them. Mobil 1 is a Group IV synthetic, and the 0W40 weight is equivalent to 5W40. Amsoil European Formula is a Group IV 5W40. Neither has the 505.01 rating, but they are equivalent in the material respects. Otherwise, buy the 505.01 oils, they are available from sources other than VW. >> You mean, like 5W40 505.01 engine oil, for instance? Which AFAIK you >> can't get locally from any store and have to buy online, and is only [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > 5W40. Amsoil European Formula is a Group IV 5W40. Neither has the > 505.01 rating, but they are equivalent in the material respects. They are not equivalent in one important way - they violate the VW warranty, don't they? -- Mike Smith >> Welcome to the warped world of Volkswagon!! >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > is all of those things, and it's a little under $8 per liter. Guess > which I bought? And what happens when you are on a road trip and are a quart low? The entire thing is ridiculous and nothing more than a money maker for VW because the majority of the people go to the stealership for service and parts, fluids etc. > It's not a bad thing that the lubes and fluids that VW recommends are > always the highest-quality available -- they insist on top-notch [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > sure not to mix it with other kinds. Some of these items are intended > never to need replacement, so it makes sense to spec the best stuff. It's a nightmare and what evidence is there that these fluids are actually better? I can change my regular old green ethyl glycol once a year and it cost me a grand total of $3.95 on sale. I can also purchase it at the local convienience store should I have an emergency problem on the road (leaky hose etc) and need to limp home. Same goes for the other fluids. >> That was until the water pump in my daughters 2003 Jetta exploded and I >> had to replace it, along with the timing belt, tensioner, serpentine belt [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > suppliers, not VW -- when they hit a bad batch, it reflects poorly on VW > -- just like all those bad mass airflow sensors provided by Bosch. They didn't change it because they were making a fortune off of it. The pumps typically exploded just after 60k miles, right after the warranty runs out. The design is horrid. A plastic impleller made of a very brittle (or at least it was brittle after 60k) plastic, almost like bakelite, that is simply pressed onto a knurled shaft? Any first year engineer would cringe at such a design. The endless amount of plastic shields, secured by 8 thousand torx screws, are built better than a crucial engine part. >> That was also when I discovered all about the *custom* fluids, stretch >> bolts etc that VW uses... [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > standardized. Stretch bolts are not uncommon, and heck yeah, you'd > better use the right ones! Of course they do, but for the most part they are standard stuff. VW marches to it's own, in many respects flawed, drummer. >> Superior German engineering? >> Hahahaha! [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > friction. Engines like the slant-six weren't fancy, but by God, they > ran and ran and ran, and repairing them was easy and cheap. So did a Chrysler slant 6 used in 70's cars like the Plymouth Duster. The 305/350 GM motor is solid as a rock. The 4.6l Ford motors are the same. And they are dead easy and cheap to repair. > Unfortunately, no manufacturer makes engines that simple, cheap and easy > to repair anymore. Even your Mustang is a complicated piece, and Ford > specs its own replacement parts and lubes -- But that's just the point. You don't have to use Ford parts. Fluids are common and can be purchased anywhere etc. The engine design is simple and one that Ford has been using for many years. > I bet you'll just buy your > own parts, irrespective of Ford's specs, won't you? You could do the > same with your VW. I can buy parts from Ford Racing if I like and get parts that are even better than the stock everyday parts. I can even buy a supercharger from Ford that is completely warrantied and will not void my factory warranty. Or I can buy these things from the name brand manufacturers that make them for Ford. Borla for exhaust systems I believe. Can the same be said of VW? I think not. > And what happens when you are on a road trip and are a quart low? Now you're just being pointlessly bitchy. What's so hard about buying an extra quart and keeping it in the trunk? I've been doing that forever, works well, try it! > The entire thing is ridiculous and nothing more than a money maker for VW > because the majority of the people go to the stealership for service and > parts, fluids etc. I don't think that's true at all. I'll bet it's a distinct minority that go to the dealer for routine service like oil changes. > It's a nightmare and what evidence is there that these fluids are actually > better? Well, check them out, for Christ's sake! Look for yourself! They are good-quality products. > I can change my regular old green ethyl glycol once a year and it cost me > a grand total of $3.95 on sale. So, who's stopping you from using it in your VW? Really, I thought you started off with some valid points, but you're being ridiculous now. > I can also purchase it at the local convienience store should I have an > emergency problem on the road (leaky hose etc) and need to limp home. > > Same goes for the other fluids. Here's a real hot tip for you, champ -- if you're just limping home, you can put just about any damn thing you want in there. Put distilled water in your radiator, if you're just limping home. Put K-Mart oil in the crankcase. Look, VWs have their faults and quirks, but come on, be reasonable. >> Engines like the slant-six weren't fancy, but by God, they >> ran and ran and ran, and repairing them was easy and cheap. > > So did a Chrysler slant 6 used in 70's cars like the Plymouth Duster. Which "slant six" did you suppose I was referring to? They were around earlier than the '70s. > I can buy parts from Ford Racing if I like and get parts that are even > better than the stock everyday parts. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Can the same be said of VW? Yes, it can. There's a huge aftermarket industry devoted to VWs -- including Borla. >> And what happens when you are on a road trip and are a quart low? > > Now you're just being pointlessly bitchy. What's so hard about buying > an extra quart and keeping it in the trunk? I've been doing that > forever, works well, try it! So do I because I drive a lot, but most people don't. >> The entire thing is ridiculous and nothing more than a money maker for VW >> because the majority of the people go to the stealership for service and >> parts, fluids etc. > > I don't think that's true at all. I'll bet it's a distinct minority > that go to the dealer for routine service like oil changes. Sure it is. Try and get an appointment at a VW dealer and then while you are there, take a look at the repair orders laying on the counter. You will see more than a few routine tasks. >> It's a nightmare and what evidence is there that these fluids are actually >> better? > > Well, check them out, for Christ's sake! Look for yourself! They are > good-quality products. I didn't say they weren't good quality. I posed the question what evidence is there that these fluids are actually BETTER. >> I can change my regular old green ethyl glycol once a year and it cost me >> a grand total of $3.95 on sale. > > So, who's stopping you from using it in your VW? Really, I thought you > started off with some valid points, but you're being ridiculous now. The warranty for one. Read your book... >> I can also purchase it at the local convienience store should I have an >> emergency problem on the road (leaky hose etc) and need to limp home. >> >> Same goes for the other fluids. > Here's a real hot tip for you, champ -- if you're just limping home, you > can put just about any damn thing you want in there. Put distilled > water in your radiator, if you're just limping home. Put K-Mart oil in > the crankcase. Look, VWs have their faults and quirks, but come on, be > reasonable. Oil/water yes. Coolent, PS steering fluid and I belive brake fluid as well no. You will void your warranty should they catch you. >>> Engines like the slant-six weren't fancy, but by God, they >>> ran and ran and ran, and repairing them was easy and cheap. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Which "slant six" did you suppose I was referring to? They were around > earlier than the '70s. You were talking Mercedes? I have no idea what they used. >> I can buy parts from Ford Racing if I like and get parts that are even >> better than the stock everyday parts. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Yes, it can. There's a huge aftermarket industry devoted to VWs -- > including Borla. What does it do to your warrnty? Ford racing parts do not void your warranty in most cases. Things like racing X pipes (remove cats) obviously do because they are designed for off road etc. But the other stuff like intakes, throttle bodies etc do not. I realize the aftermarket for VW is huge BTW. > Or I can buy these things from the name brand manufacturers that make them > for Ford. > Borla for exhaust systems I believe. > > Can the same be said of VW? Absolutely. -- Mike Smith |
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