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Car Forum / Volkswagen / Water Cooled Volkswagen Cars / October 2006

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Low pressure tires

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Jonny - 25 Oct 2006 03:48 GMT
Awhile back, established at this newsgroup that AC compressor use does
affect gas mileage in small vehicles like an older VW with small engine.

How drastically can tire pressure affect gas mileage in similar older VW
with small engine (1.8L)?
An example.  Recommended tire pressures by VW.  These are part ot the
suspension system, and provide comfort for the driver and passenger.  No
where near the max 32 psi of same tire.  What if you max hot pressure to 32
psi?  What if you're running around with 15 psi for instance instead?

Reason I mention is for 2 reasons.  One tire (LH front) has a very slow
leak.  Have to refill every 2 months.  I've gotten used to this, rather than
having it fixed.   The other reason is the two tires on the RH side decided
they were going to go low, almost flat.  Don't know how long they were like
that.  I did notice greater difficulty uphill, faster deacceleration letting
off the gas pedal, and sloppy/wishwashy rearend movement at any highway
steering movement.  Upon refilling the RH side tires, and roadtesting,
noticed opposite.  Easier to climb hills, slower deacceleration, and tighter
rear end movement.  Am guessing the low pressure contributed to sidewall
movement of the tires in turns.  Pressure gauge starts showing around 20
psi.  The RH tires could not move that gauge when low.  Am considering 32
psi all 4 tires.
Signature

Jonny

wrenchwench - 25 Oct 2006 04:18 GMT
A few things.  You read 32 psi max on the TIRE.  That applies to the tire
manufacturer.  They have no idea where the tire is going to be used, you
could be using it on a skidoo trailer, or hauling a trailer with a cord of
wet wood.  It has nothing to do with a car.
 VW says, after doing their road tests with the car, whatever tire you
put on put this amount of air in for max.tire life, comfort and good
handling.  That is, the psi is according to what the CAR weighs front and
rear.
  Now, from experience, if you are running too low an air pressure, you
are most likely gonnna experience a sidewall blowout, as the sidewall will
be flexing more than it usually does which builds up heat and causes the
failure to happen.  So, keep that pressure up.  
  As a maximum, heck my spare has 50 in it.
  But, if decide to run your air pressure at the high end (whether that
be 35-40 odd), it will give you better fuel economy, but, you do lose
traction as the tire will be wearing out prematurely in the centre of the
tread....also you will feel like you are riding on the steel rims
themselves when you hit bumps.  You will  have more get up and go with the
higher tire pressure, which shows you that if you got a flat, you need more
power to turn that wheel over as it is not so round as it once was.
 Do yourself a favour and get the tires fixed(you probably have a bead
leak, which means they have to dismount the tires, clean the rims and
remount again.   And they (the tire shop)will stuff 32 in(or more) right
away so that the bead seats itself to the rim, you can readjust the
pressure later(a couple of days of driving on them)

    The 32 psi has been used on large Chevs and Fords for the longest
time, so it is a number stuck in the shops head.   If you check in the
newer chevs, ford, bmw's, toyota's, they all have different numbers for
the tire pressure(even though the tires(most brands) say 32 max).
WW
none2u - 25 Oct 2006 13:12 GMT
Me personally, I find that  high tire pressure beats the cars suspension to
death and starts the cars creaking and groaning after a year or two. If I go
cross country , or have a load I go 32, Everything else #30 rides real nice
and doesn't eat tires up.
>A few things.  You read 32 psi max on the TIRE.  That applies to the tire
> manufacturer.  They have no idea where the tire is going to be used, you
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> the tire pressure(even though the tires(most brands) say 32 max).
> WW
Jonny - 26 Oct 2006 02:35 GMT
>A few things.  You read 32 psi max on the TIRE.  That applies to the tire
> manufacturer.  They have no idea where the tire is going to be used, you
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> the tire pressure(even though the tires(most brands) say 32 max).
> WW

The last set of GYs were mounted at the GY dealer.  They put in the
designated pressures for front and rear per the VW recommendation for my
particular vehicle model and year and body style (IE wagon).
Signature

Jonny

Lost In Space/Woodchuck - 25 Oct 2006 13:43 GMT
Why not just replace the tires or fix the leaks? Then there's no need to
worry!

> Awhile back, established at this newsgroup that AC compressor use does
> affect gas mileage in small vehicles like an older VW with small engine.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> gauge starts showing around 20 psi.  The RH tires could not move that
> gauge when low.  Am considering 32 psi all 4 tires.
Papa - 25 Oct 2006 16:47 GMT
A tire with incorrect pressure will wear out much faster, but worse than
that incorrect pressure can lead to loss of control.
Jonny - 26 Oct 2006 02:40 GMT
That's the problem.  What is the correct pressure?  VW recommended by the
owners manual, or repair manual for instance, or 32 psi, or what.

I juiced it up to 32 psi anyway today.  It rained all day.  Noticed no
problems in handling.  The only time, as usual, is when I hit a large
puddle.  Causing the vehicle to swerve slightly towards the puddle during
rural highway driving conditions.
Signature

Jonny

>A tire with incorrect pressure will wear out much faster, but worse than
>that incorrect pressure can lead to loss of control.
Papa - 26 Oct 2006 15:30 GMT
> That's the problem.  What is the correct pressure?

Your Owners Manual should have that information, as well as the manufacturer
of your tires. You can also get the info from the service department of your
local dealer, which would be even a better source because they will consider
the car/tire combination.
Joseph Meehan - 25 Oct 2006 20:13 GMT
As noted, the pressure on the tyre is the max for that tyre not the
recommended pressure for the tyre on your car or any other car.  You look at
that just to make sure it is equal to or greater than the pressure you
intend to use.  Don't use it to determine what pressure to use.

   The manufacturer has recommended a specific pressure for the original
equipment size tyres and had done so based on a number of controlled test
tract test.  Going much over or worse yet under the recommended value can
cause unsafe handling.

Signature

Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1  It's Irish Math

> Awhile back, established at this newsgroup that AC compressor use does
> affect gas mileage in small vehicles like an older VW with small engine.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> gauge starts showing around 20 psi.  The RH tires could not move that
> gauge when low.  Am considering 32 psi all 4 tires.
Jonny - 26 Oct 2006 02:42 GMT
The recommended pressures for forward and aft tires puts the vehicle at
borderline danger from sidewall swaying problems with just one passenger and
no load on my particular vehicle.  Adding passengers exacerbates the
problem, making it apparent.
Signature

Jonny

>    As noted, the pressure on the tyre is the max for that tyre not the
> recommended pressure for the tyre on your car or any other car.  You look
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>> Pressure gauge starts showing around 20 psi.  The RH tires could not move
>> that gauge when low.  Am considering 32 psi all 4 tires.
Jim Behning - 26 Oct 2006 03:27 GMT
Where does that statement come from? I do not recall seeing you post
what the recommended tire pressure is from the sticker on your car.
You have not stated what VW you have or what size tires you have. Some
VWs recommend 17 psi up front and 26 in the rear. Are you using that
pressure? That would make a Rabbit handle poorly but works ok for a
1967 Beetle. I have driven VWs since 1977. The only tire pressure I
found dangerous was the recommended pressure on a 1966 Squareback. If
you are only checking your pressure once every two months and you know
you have leaks that suggests some sort of odd maintenance schedule.

If your tire guage starts at 20 psi then it is the wrong guage for a
passenger tire.

>The recommended pressures for forward and aft tires puts the vehicle at
>borderline danger from sidewall swaying problems with just one passenger and
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>>> Pressure gauge starts showing around 20 psi.  The RH tires could not move
>>> that gauge when low.  Am considering 32 psi all 4 tires.
Brian Running - 25 Oct 2006 20:31 GMT
> Awhile back, established at this newsgroup that AC compressor use does
> affect gas mileage in small vehicles like an older VW with small engine.

Affects gas mileage in all vehicles, regardless of vehicle or engine size.

> How drastically can tire pressure affect gas mileage in similar older VW
> with small engine (1.8L)?

A couple of percent.

> Reason I mention is for 2 reasons.  One tire (LH front) has a very slow
> leak.  Have to refill every 2 months.  I've gotten used to this, rather than
> having it fixed.   The other reason is the two tires on the RH side decided
> they were going to go low, almost flat.

Quit screwing around, and get your tires fixed!  Why put up with the
problem?

  Don't know how long they were like
> that.  I did notice greater difficulty uphill, faster deacceleration letting
> off the gas pedal, and sloppy/wishwashy rearend movement at any highway
> steering movement.

You demonstrated to yourself how much low tires will affect fuel
mileage.  If your handling was getting loose from low tire pressure,
you're lucky you didn't have an accident.  Get the tires fixed!

  Upon refilling the RH side tires, and roadtesting,
> noticed opposite.  Easier to climb hills, slower deacceleration, and tighter
> rear end movement.  Am guessing the low pressure contributed to sidewall
> movement of the tires in turns.  Pressure gauge starts showing around 20
> psi.  The RH tires could not move that gauge when low.  Am considering 32
> psi all 4 tires.

You could try what a lot of racers do:  Make chalk marks across the
tread and extending a little way up the sidewall.  Drive around the
block, then look and see where the chalk mark is rubbed off in relation
to the edge of the tread.  If the chalk ends right at the edge of the
tread, you're at the right inflation level.  Drastic over or
underinflation will show up as wear past the edge of the tread, or even
an unworn stripe in the middle of the tread.  Do it a few times with the
pressure intentionally high and low, to see the effect on your
particular tires.
Jonny - 26 Oct 2006 02:49 GMT
>> Awhile back, established at this newsgroup that AC compressor use does
>> affect gas mileage in small vehicles like an older VW with small engine.
>
> Affects gas mileage in all vehicles, regardless of vehicle or engine size.

Ever see the Mythbusters TV program?  They used 2 identical Ford SUVs.  One
using AC, one not.  No difference in mileage they said.  "Myth" busted they
said.  I still don't believe their results.

>> How drastically can tire pressure affect gas mileage in similar older VW
>> with small engine (1.8L)?
>
> A couple of percent.

Kinda depends on the vehicle and the power to weight ratio in my opinion.

>> Reason I mention is for 2 reasons.  One tire (LH front) has a very slow
>> leak.  Have to refill every 2 months.  I've gotten used to this, rather
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> If your handling was getting loose from low tire pressure, you're lucky
> you didn't have an accident.  Get the tires fixed!

The LH front tire was up to snuff at the time.  Not sure if loss of air on
the RH side tires was due to mischief, or some leak.

>   Upon refilling the RH side tires, and roadtesting,
>> noticed opposite.  Easier to climb hills, slower deacceleration, and
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> the tread.  Do it a few times with the pressure intentionally high and
> low, to see the effect on your particular tires.

That's what I like, some "common sense" approach.  I'll probably try it.
Signature

Jonny

Brian Running - 26 Oct 2006 16:43 GMT
>> Affects gas mileage in all vehicles, regardless of vehicle or engine size.
>
> Ever see the Mythbusters TV program?  They used 2 identical Ford SUVs.  One
> using AC, one not.  No difference in mileage they said.  "Myth" busted they
> said.  I still don't believe their results.

Yeah, I saw it last night, in fact.  Couple of doofuses with no
scientific backgrounds.  If they found no difference in mileage, then
their measuring methods were inaccurate.  You can't create energy for
free, if the AC uses power, it decreases gas mileage.  And AC does use
power.  They can't bust the "myth" of cold, hard physical reality.

>>> How drastically can tire pressure affect gas mileage in similar older VW
>>> with small engine (1.8L)?
>> A couple of percent.
>
> Kinda depends on the vehicle and the power to weight ratio in my opinion.

That's why it's expressed in a percentage, and not an absolute number.
Besides, you specified an older VW with a 1.8 engine, didn't you?
Jim Behning - 26 Oct 2006 23:20 GMT
>>> Affects gas mileage in all vehicles, regardless of vehicle or engine size.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>That's why it's expressed in a percentage, and not an absolute number.
>Besides, you specified an older VW with a 1.8 engine, didn't you?

This whole conversation has been sort of vague. Tire pressure tag is
on the door pillar or gas fill lid on the last 3 water cooled VWs I
owned. I guess it was in the owners manual for the air cooled VWs but
I cannot recall. I do not have any air cooled VWs to look at either.

1.8L engine. Well some folks could have a 1.8L in a 1952 VW if they
did some hot rodding. Older is not a very definitive term. Kind of
like a tank of fuel. My car manual says it holds 14.5 gallons US but I
often pump 16 gallons in. Capacity should not be vague. It sure was
not in the mid sixties VW fuel tanks.
Kevin Rhodes - 27 Oct 2006 00:12 GMT
>>> Affects gas mileage in all vehicles, regardless of vehicle or engine size.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>free, if the AC uses power, it decreases gas mileage.  And AC does use
>power.  They can't bust the "myth" of cold, hard physical reality.

Mythbusters used just about the worst possible circumstances to test that
particular hypothesis. They used Full-size SUVs with big V8 engines, and they
did the test at IIRC 45mph because of the sharp corners on the test track they
used. Silly really. The idea was to see if driving with the windows open used
more gas than running the A/C. On a big SUV at 45 mph, it was a wash. On a
properly aerodynamic car at a realistic highway speed, it would not be. Modern
A/C compressors are extremely efficient, while driving with the windows open
at 75 mph royally screws up the aerodynamics. And of course, as speed
increases, the relative percentage of the engines power needed to run the A/C
compressor decreases. Takes the same amount of power to run the compressor at
idle as it does at highways speed.

Kevin Rhodes
Westbrook, Maine
Jim Behning - 27 Oct 2006 01:50 GMT
>>>> Affects gas mileage in all vehicles, regardless of vehicle or engine size.
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>Kevin Rhodes
>Westbrook, Maine

My 2003 Jetta diesel gets about 3-5 miles per gallon better mileage in
the spring and fall then it does in the summer. I have windows open
but not wide open in the spring and fall. AC in the heat of summer. No
myth busting there. I don't worry as much about crummy mileage in the
summer but if it is crummy in the fall and spring I am lookng for
reasons. My 84 GTI used to lose about 10% when running the AC. About
the same as the mileage loss on the Jetta as it could dip down to 45
mpg.
Mike Smith - 27 Oct 2006 04:27 GMT
> My 2003 Jetta diesel gets about 3-5 miles per gallon better mileage in
> the spring and fall then it does in the summer. I have windows open
> but not wide open in the spring and fall. AC in the heat of summer. No
> myth busting there.

Could seasonal fuel variations have anything to do with it?

--
Mike Smith
Jim Behning - 27 Oct 2006 13:03 GMT
>> My 2003 Jetta diesel gets about 3-5 miles per gallon better mileage in
>> the spring and fall then it does in the summer. I have windows open
>> but not wide open in the spring and fall. AC in the heat of summer. No
>> myth busting there.
>
>Could seasonal fuel variations have anything to do with it?

No. Drive a week with the AC on and mileage goes down about 10%. Next
tank it will go back up with no AC. I could flip back and forth as the
weather does. Fuel mix does not flip but the temps do. We had a few
days of frost already and then 70+ days a few days later.

I do not know for sure how much the summer/winter diesel mix affects
mileage. I do know straight B100 chicken fat base causes about a 5% or
more drop in mileage but better smelling exhaust. I have not run soy
bio in a long time. I do not know how it affects mileage.

http://www.theoildrum.com/story/2006/9/13/234043/431
none2u - 27 Oct 2006 14:56 GMT
Their testing procedures went accurate enough. They lack relevant.
information They only have an hour show. Cant drive the vehicles long enough
or on identical test stands either for accurate tests. Didn't remove human
error either. They did one one time about pressurized toilets in airplanes
and said they wouldn't depressurize in an aircraft. They lacked information,
and didn't do the right test. They are however quite entertaining. Just goes
to show you  infantile adults  with ADD  could have cool jobs too.

>>>>> Affects gas mileage in all vehicles, regardless of vehicle or engine
>>>>> size.
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
> the same as the mileage loss on the Jetta as it could dip down to 45
> mpg.
Brian Running - 30 Oct 2006 16:46 GMT
> The idea was to see if driving with the windows open used
> more gas than running the A/C.

Oh, THAT myth!  Okay.  There's no doubt in my mind that running the AC
uses much more fuel than any losses due to aerodynamics with the windows
open.  No way that windows could possibly cause that much drag.  That is
the conclusion that Road & Track reached in a recent test, too.  As
someone else mentioned here in this thread, there's a clear-cut
correlation between using AC and loss of fuel mileage, but no
correlation between having the windows open and losing mileage.  Does
anyone feel the car slow down or hear the engine start to pull a little
harder when they lower the windows?  Of course not.  But you do feel
that momentary bump when the AC compressor kicks in.

That one really is a myth.  AC costs fuel, pure and simple.
Joseph Meehan - 31 Oct 2006 15:28 GMT
Actuarially it appears to depend on the car, including the engine and
transmission used as well as the speed.

   To tell you the truth, I don't worry about it.  I keep the windows
closed (almost all the time) and use heat or air as needed.  I like being
comfortable and the worse mileage I have ever had with my TDI is mid 40's so
I guess I can afford it.

Signature

Joseph E. Meehan

>> The idea was to see if driving with the windows open used more gas than
>> running the A/C.
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> That one really is a myth.  AC costs fuel, pure and simple.
Joseph Meehan - 26 Oct 2006 00:40 GMT
It sounds a lot like you have alloy wheels and the wheels are leaking.
Why people want those things that cost more and function less is beyond me.

Signature

Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1  It's Irish Math

> Awhile back, established at this newsgroup that AC compressor use does
> affect gas mileage in small vehicles like an older VW with small engine.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> gauge starts showing around 20 psi.  The RH tires could not move that
> gauge when low.  Am considering 32 psi all 4 tires.
Jim Behning - 26 Oct 2006 01:35 GMT
>    It sounds a lot like you have alloy wheels and the wheels are leaking.
>Why people want those things that cost more and function less is beyond me.

Did I miss something? I have not experienced tire pressure loss any
faster on my cars with alloy wheels than I have on my lawn mower,
tractor or truck with steel wheels.
none2u - 26 Oct 2006 02:33 GMT
Alloy wheels leak always. Especially if it snows and the city puts rocksalt
down. Across all brands.  I could call 5 guys right now with leaking alloys.
they leak at the bead by the balance weights from corrosion.

>>    It sounds a lot like you have alloy wheels and the wheels are leaking.
>>Why people want those things that cost more and function less is beyond
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> faster on my cars with alloy wheels than I have on my lawn mower,
> tractor or truck with steel wheels.
Joseph Meehan - 26 Oct 2006 12:59 GMT
>>    It sounds a lot like you have alloy wheels and the wheels are leaking.
>>Why people want those things that cost more and function less is beyond
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> faster on my cars with alloy wheels than I have on my lawn mower,
> tractor or truck with steel wheels.

   No, you either have been luck or you have the very expensive high
quality wheels.

   Not all of them leak, be there are a lot of leaks reported and they tend
to be less robust than steel wheels so they don't survive pot holes very
well.
Jim Behning - 26 Oct 2006 13:25 GMT
>>>    It sounds a lot like you have alloy wheels and the wheels are leaking.
>>>Why people want those things that cost more and function less is beyond
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>to be less robust than steel wheels so they don't survive pot holes very
>well.

Well there you go. I moved to Atlanta half a lifetime ago. I never had
aluminum or mag wheels when I lived in Cleveland, Ohio. Pot holes are
sort of rare compared with the stuff I saw as a kid driving in Ohio.
We rarely see road salt so clip on wheel weights do not do that much
damage to aluminum wheels. The 2003 Jetta factory wheels use tape on
wheel weights anyway. My 84 GTI was stripped when I got it. I took my
snowflake GTI wheels off my 80 Rabbit and used them. Rabbit had a
tragic incident with a telephone pole. Pole won. The snowflake wheels
were made in some South American plant. I do not think they were all
that high quality. I always had a bt of a shimmy or shake on two
different cars and at least 4 sets of tires. The Jetta wheels are
smooth as can be with quality Michelin tires not needing a balance
between tire purchases of 80,000 miles.

Both sets of wheels had a plastic like top coat finish which I am sure
is there both to protect the exterior and to seal the interiour to
reduce leaks. So far it has worked ok. I am used to checking tire
pressure every week or more with bicycle tires so losing a psi or 2
once a month on the car seems like nothing. I don't think the Jetta
loses air that fast. I guess I should make note of the pressure
checking temp and date to see what the real loss is.
Jonny - 26 Oct 2006 02:50 GMT
Good guess, no cookie.  Factory steel wheels.  No wrecks or accidents.
Signature

Jonny

>    It sounds a lot like you have alloy wheels and the wheels are leaking.
> Why people want those things that cost more and function less is beyond
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>> Pressure gauge starts showing around 20 psi.  The RH tires could not move
>> that gauge when low.  Am considering 32 psi all 4 tires.
 
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