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Car Forum / Volkswagen / Water Cooled Volkswagen Cars / January 2007Ignition switch? Headlights cutting out.
My headlights (and rear defroster) are cutting out sometimes and it's getting progressively worse. I can keep them on by holding the key in the "start" position (just past the normal operating position), and if I rattle the key sometimes the lights will stay on for a few moments, so I think it's something with the ignition. Could it possibly be the ignition switch? My worst fear is having to replace the entire ignition and re-key the whole car. It's a 98 Jetta GLX. How hard is it to change the ignition switch? I'm worried it might be hard to access due to anti-theft considerations. > Could it possibly be the ignition switch? My worst fear is having to > replace the entire ignition and re-key the whole car. It could be the ignition switch. How big a bundle of keys do you hang on it? And, have you lubricated it lately? I loosen and flush out the skunge with WD-40, followed with a high-film-strength PTFE-based oil... about 2 X per year. So far, so good. And that is all the vehicles VW or otherwise. Could also be the relays as both functions go through a relay (not the same one) on your fuse panel. VW relays of that vintage are pretty notoriously crappy. Try cleaning the ignition switch first. It may take two tries if it is really binding. DO NOT USE A GRAPHITE BASED LUBRICANT!!! Graphite is a good conductor. Oops! Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA >>Could it possibly be the ignition switch? My worst fear is having to >>replace the entire ignition and re-key the whole car. [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA Thanks. Do you just squirt the oil into the keyhole, or disassemble something first? Where does the oil run out? Any idea whether it's hard to replace the ignition switch, should that be necessary? > Thanks. Do you just squirt the oil into the keyhole, or disassemble > something first? Where does the oil run out? I wrap a rag around the column and lock and spray away pretty liberally. WD-40 is 100% volatile (eventually... faster in warm weather of course) so it will dry But the point of it is to rinse out the crud in the lock and free the cams that activate the switches. The PTFE oil I use comes in a needle applicator which keeps it well confined. Just wipe down when done, and then the next day. > Any idea whether it's hard to replace the ignition switch, should that > be necessary? Plugs in and out, after getting to it. No big deal, really. If you don't mind two keys, there is no reason to do the rest. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA If this was a vehicle running with DTR I would suspect the handbrake switch. If not please disregard! ;-) Happy Holidays to all! later, dave (One out of many daves) > If this was a vehicle running with DTR I would suspect the handbrake switch. > If not please disregard! ;-) Pardon if I'm being dense, but what's DTR? The handbrake switch is one of the many other electrical problems with this car. Sometimes when I'm driving, the red "brake" light is on in the dash, even though the handbrake is definitely all the way released. Other electrical problems include nonworking power locks, broken CD changer, 2 of the 4 power windows don't work, the keyfob transmitters don't work, and once or twice it has blown a fuse for the electric accessories. All that with only 75K miles on it. Whoever wired this thing should be shot. Or more fittingly, electrocuted. Day Time Running lights which light up the headlights when the ign is ON and the handbrake switch is OFF. It depends on what year and which model VW you have. Lets put that info in the Subject above. ;-) >> If this was a vehicle running with DTR I would suspect the handbrake >> switch. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > accessories. All that with only 75K miles on it. Whoever wired this > thing should be shot. Or more fittingly, electrocuted. > Day Time Running lights which light up the headlights when the ign is ON and > the handbrake switch is OFF. > > It depends on what year and which model VW you have. > Lets put that info in the Subject above. ;-) OK, should have put it in the title. But as mentioned in my original post, it's a '98 Jetta GLX. thanks sometimes that info gets lost as the replies delete it. you should have DTR (Day Time Running lights) on your '98 Jetta. Usually I find that both bulbs are burnt out and the owner did not realize it. :-) I have not seen a bad handbrake switch yet but it you are already having that brake warning light problem, maybe it is in that switch. Of course check the brake fluid level. ;-) Do you have any exterior lights when the vehicle is running but sitting still? What about when you turn the light switch on? Do the high beams come on? Can they stay on with the ign on and the headlight switch on? If you pull up on the handbrake, does the warning light come on? Have you owned this Jetta since new or could a previous owner have modified the DTR system? >> Day Time Running lights which light up the headlights when the ign is ON >> and the handbrake switch is OFF. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > OK, should have put it in the title. But as mentioned in my original > post, it's a '98 Jetta GLX. In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, timeOday wrote: >My headlights (and rear defroster) are cutting out sometimes and it's >getting progressively worse. I can keep them on by holding the key in >the "start" position (just past the normal operating position), and if I >rattle the key sometimes the lights will stay on for a few moments, so I >think it's something with the ignition. By cutting out, you don't mean they are blinking at a somewhat regular rate, do you? > It's a 98 Jetta GLX. How hard is it to change the ignition switch? I'm > worried it might be hard to access due to anti-theft considerations. The switch is separate from the lock cylinder. You can replace it without having to change any keys. The switch is cheap, around $40/dealer or $12/online. Shop around. The simple way is to pull the whole steering column. That'll just barely let you get to the philips head screw that holds the switch onto the back of the lock cylinder. You remove the bolt at the bottom of the column, drill out (or grab with visegrips) a bolt, remove the wires and the whole column comes right out. See my posts elsewhere here, or STFW for more detailed info. -Bill Kearney In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, Bill Kearney wrote: >You remove the bolt at the bottom of the column What do you mean by "the bottom of the column"? > In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, Bill Kearney wrote: > > >You remove the bolt at the bottom of the column > > What do you mean by "the bottom of the column"? THINK MAN. There's a steering column, I'm suggesting you remove it. One end is up near you, one would call this the TOP of the column. Thus I'll leave you to figure out where the BOTTOM is. There's a universal joint that has a bolt holding it's clamp onto the column. Remove that one. >> In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, Bill Kearney wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > There's a universal joint that has a bolt holding it's clamp onto the > column. Remove that one. Well, it could have been installed backwards. ;>) |
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