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Car Forum / Volkswagen / Water Cooled Volkswagen Cars / March 2008

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Thermostat and overheating

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Mandie @k@ Zepherous - 26 Mar 2008 03:36 GMT
Golf umwelt CL estate, 98. AAZ engine.

Keeps overheating, solved by replacing thermostat , bottom hose heats fine
etc
then within a couple of days car overheats, bottom hose stays cold.
We have replaced the thermostat 4 times now (from different sources)
Radiator has been replaces and the waterpump.
I also notice that there is quite often a stagnant smell through the heater.
I don't know if this is relevant but the previous owner totally removed the
pollen filter
so now just a hole there.

Any advice would be really appreciated.
Jim Behning - 26 Mar 2008 04:21 GMT
>Golf umwelt CL estate, 98. AAZ engine.
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>Any advice would be really appreciated.

I thought I have read here that sometimes you have to replace the
larger hoses as they can collapse. If you put a big piece of cardboard
where the filter is and you never turn on the fan you might not get
any stink from crud growing around the heater core or evaporator coil.
I removed the evaporator coil in my truck. I had grass seed
germinating in there.

I think on some of the Toyota thermostats they have a small bleed hole
drilled in the thermostat. This lets the trapped air get pumped out
faster. I do know on my Rabbits I had to burp the air out of the
cooling system after doing any work on the cooling system.
pfjw@aol.com - 26 Mar 2008 14:21 GMT
On Mar 25, 11:21 pm, Jim Behning
<jimbehn...@doesthisblockpork.mindspring.com> wrote:
> On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 02:36:20 -0000, "Mandie @k@ Zepherous"
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> I removed the evaporator coil in my truck. I had grass seed
> germinating in there.

A couple of things:

a) There are stainless steel springs that will fit into such hoses to
prevent collapse. Best is a new hose, of course, but if the radiator
is somewhat restricted this is a viable alternative.

b) First, clean the drains for the heater core. There are specialists
who will also de-mold the system at a healthy cost, however. One may
pour a diluted chlorine bleach solution through the system with the
understanding that chlorine attacks metal, especially aluminum, if
allowed to rest against it.

c) If the alternative is a replacement heater core together with the
removal and/or cleaning of the fan box and so forth, and you are
scrupulously careful you may pour a dilute solution of chlorine bleach
and ammonia through the system. This will produce Chloramine Gas (a
very toxic gas that kills about anything it touches), ammonia also
attacks aluminum, and this is generally a hazardous option when NO
OTHER ALTERNATIVE IS AVAILABLE. Do this outside, do not expose
yourself to the gas released, wear gloves and eye-protection, dilute
the household bleach 3:1 and the household ammonia 2:1. Use CLEAR
ammonia. Do not do this where the drained material will leach into the
ground immediately, or catch it if you can. It is OK for the solution
to go into storm or sewer systems, just not into the ground as (again)
it is temporarily toxic. Do not drive the vehicle for at least 12
hours after this sort of treatment, but it is good to run the fan (all
windows & doors open, and use a house-fan to blow air through the
cabin) during the process to get the chloramine gas through the entire
system. Nasty stuff, but does the trick where Lysol and other
materials do not.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Lost In Space/Woodchuck - 26 Mar 2008 22:42 GMT
is the waterpump pushing coolant?

> Golf umwelt CL estate, 98. AAZ engine.
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Any advice would be really appreciated.
 
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