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Car Forum / Volkswagen / Water Cooled Volkswagen Cars / October 2008

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AMP connectors

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nutso fasst - 25 Sep 2008 01:38 GMT
I was able to get the AMP connector off the cold start valve with a tiny
screwdriver. But others are not so easy. When I tried to get the connector
off the thermo time switch using only my fingers, rotten plastic cracked
away, leaving the wire clip hanging. And I don't have a clue how to get the
connector off the control pressure regulator to test resistance, as one side
is inaccessible. Is there an easy way to remove these connectors? And, when
rotted out (with rotten rubber protector flaking away), where to find
replacements?

Thanks.
nf
Jim Behning - 25 Sep 2008 02:18 GMT
Toyota and VW dealers have replacement connectors.

>I was able to get the AMP connector off the cold start valve with a tiny
>screwdriver. But others are not so easy. When I tried to get the connector
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>Thanks.
>nf
nutso fasst - 25 Sep 2008 03:04 GMT
> Toyota and VW dealers have replacement connectors.

Thanks (though I shudder anticipating the cost). Any tips for pulling them
apart?
dave AKA vwdoc1 - 25 Sep 2008 03:56 GMT
Always post car info when asking questions!  Even if we know you!  You might
have several vehicles!  ;-)

Use a small pick to remove metal clip from connector without popping that
clip somewhere far away.

Junkyard should have connectors too!
Signature

later,
(One out of many daves)

>> Toyota and VW dealers have replacement connectors.
>
> Thanks (though I shudder anticipating the cost). Any tips for pulling them
> apart?
Lost In Space/Woodchuck - 29 Sep 2008 02:52 GMT
got to be cheaper than running all over town. They are cheaper than GAS!

>> Toyota and VW dealers have replacement connectors.
>
> Thanks (though I shudder anticipating the cost). Any tips for pulling them
> apart?
racertod@racertodd.com - 25 Sep 2008 03:47 GMT
>I was able to get the AMP connector off the cold start valve with a tiny
>screwdriver. But others are not so easy. When I tried to get the connector
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>rotted out (with rotten rubber protector flaking away), where to find
>replacements?

    Also available here:
http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html

Todd
nutso fasst - 25 Sep 2008 10:51 GMT
> Also available here:
> http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html

$12-$25 per connector. Ouch.

Thanks for the link.
Jim Behning - 25 Sep 2008 14:33 GMT
I go to the junkyard to salvage. As I noted my 1987 Toyota has the
same connectors. As mentioned you use a small screwdriver or pick to
pop the stainless steel retainer clip off about a 1/4 " on both sides.
Actually it is more like an 1/8".  Then the connector slides off. If
the connector has fallen apart from heat and chemicals you just
replace it. It is just the cost of maintaining an older car. I have a
few I need to replace on my Toyota as they have started to fall apart
but they are hard to get to and the truck is running fine. If you are
trying to fix an old VW you have to fix everything you see as you come
across problems. Ignoring one or two issues soon becomes 5 things
messed up. Not unlike a computer. It is not always just one thing
wrong that is causing the problem, it could be 5 things wrong. 5 minor
issues becomes one major problem.

>> Also available here:
>> http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html
>
>$12-$25 per connector. Ouch.
>
>Thanks for the link.
Dioclese - 30 Sep 2008 13:27 GMT
>I was able to get the AMP connector off the cold start valve with a tiny
> screwdriver. But others are not so easy. When I tried to get the connector
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Thanks.
> nf

Method that I used on my 88VW was with small screwdriver (#3 I think?) and a
small pair of needlenosed pliers.  Pried out one end with screwdriver, then
held in place with the pliers.  Then, worked out the other end with the
screwdriver and pushed it off while aiding in the same direction with the
pliers on the other end.  Never lost the clip either as its held by the
pliers at all times.

If the control pressure regulator is like the one on my VW, you might
consider just bending the clip off and replacing it with another one.
That's what I did.
Signature

Dave

nutso fasst - 30 Sep 2008 22:00 GMT
> Method that I used on my 88VW was with small screwdriver (#3 I think?) and a
> small pair of needlenosed pliers.  Pried out one end with screwdriver, then
> held in place with the pliers.  Then, worked out the other end with the
> screwdriver and pushed it off while aiding in the same direction with the
> pliers on the other end.  Never lost the clip either as its held by the
> pliers at all times.

That sounds reasonable. Thanks. I know I've removed these before (replaced
the AAV) but now it seems so difficult. Maybe the plastic is more
deteriorated or maybe I'm just losing my mind.
Dioclese - 02 Oct 2008 09:06 GMT
>> Method that I used on my 88VW was with small screwdriver (#3 I think?)
>> and
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> the AAV) but now it seems so difficult. Maybe the plastic is more
> deteriorated or maybe I'm just losing my mind.

Dunno.  I had the habit, since 94, of spraying all the engine plastic and
visibly rusting hardware with WD40.  This, after I washed the engine down
and letting it dry.  Usually, about every 3 months.  No broken, cracked, or
otherwise AMP connectors here.
Signature

Dave

 
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