Hi, thanks for the information. It is not the switch, and I do not see any
loose connections on any of the connectors. It may be the heaters
themselves. Need to do a little more troubleshooting. I will keep you
posted.
Thanks
On Nov 17, 11:24 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1"
<vwdoc1nos...@pleasehotmail.com> wrote:
> Maybe just the switch or wiring........................
> OR
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
> Hi, thanks for the information. It is not the switch, and I do not see any
> loose connections on any of the connectors. It may be the heaters
> themselves. Need to do a little more troubleshooting. I will keep you
> posted.
I do not mean just that the connectors separate - individual wires
sometimes pull loose from the connectors, or the crimp-connectors are
so tightly crimped that they sever the copper down to a few strands,
which then burn out with the load. See if you have power *TO* that
molex connector, then check for load (resistance) to the actual
elements. Betcha that if you have power to the connector you have a
failed wire *at* the connector(s), not an actual failed element.
Part of this is trying "in back" of the actual connector at the crimp.
A good VOM with sharp probes is your best friend in this sort of
search.
VW electrics sub-assemblies are notoriously sloppy, so all of this may
come to the same thing in terms of what you have to replace, sadly.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
wjcimbri - 22 Nov 2008 01:54 GMT
Thanks for the info. I am going to dive into it this weekend. I will let you
know how I make out.
On Nov 19, 10:16 pm, "wjcimbri" <wjcim...@optonline.net> wrote:
> Hi, thanks for the information. It is not the switch, and I do not see any
> loose connections on any of the connectors. It may be the heaters
> themselves. Need to do a little more troubleshooting. I will keep you
> posted.
I do not mean just that the connectors separate - individual wires
sometimes pull loose from the connectors, or the crimp-connectors are
so tightly crimped that they sever the copper down to a few strands,
which then burn out with the load. See if you have power *TO* that
molex connector, then check for load (resistance) to the actual
elements. Betcha that if you have power to the connector you have a
failed wire *at* the connector(s), not an actual failed element.
Part of this is trying "in back" of the actual connector at the crimp.
A good VOM with sharp probes is your best friend in this sort of
search.
VW electrics sub-assemblies are notoriously sloppy, so all of this may
come to the same thing in terms of what you have to replace, sadly.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA