Thanks to you guys I have now a very good idea on the size of the
task.
I am going to start by spraying with the silicone lubricant and
observe the results.
Thanks a million guys.

John

I did not drop the exhaust. Unbolting the shield and moving it out of the
way was enough.

Removal of the sleeve was the hardest part, and it took me a bit to
discover that all I needed was a small C-clamp, a deep socket, and the new
sleeve. By arranging all this so that when the C-clamp was tightened, the
new sleeve pushed the old into the deep socket at the other end. Since the
new sleeve did not have its O-rings on yet, it did not stick in place and
was easily removed after.

The hardest part was picking the plastic cups out, and even that wasn't
difficult.

Time dulls the memory of painful events, but I recently had a tussle with
the bushings. They are in an inconvenient place, and actually removing the
bushings sets you up for a reassembly that requires patience. Give the
bushings a spray with silicone lubricant (definitely not WD-40) and see how
it works out. Loosening the nut on the bolt is not a big hassle if you need
to do that, and it isn't nearly as hard to put the rubber exhaust hangers
back on as I thought. A squirt of silicone does the trick on that as long as
the lower end is put on first.

Mike

Under the car is very much the best. If you want to attempt disassembling
things from up top, you're going to have quite a job pulling things apart.

With a spray the shield doesn't need to come off.

I still think your best bet is simple use. Just go drive the car around for
an hour or so in heavy city traffic until it loosens up.

The thing that's most probably most sticking is (as David said) the pin
with the rubber grommets on either side:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/bushing_kit/P7210888.JPG
It's here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/bushing_kit/
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/bushing_kit/P7210889.JPG
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/shifter_sketch.jpg

Those pics are raw photos from the "shifter bushing" page I haven't got
around to writing yet.

That brings back my previous question. Can I get assess to the
refereed components from the top ( by removing the center console) or
do I have to do it from under the car? If it must be done from under
the car, the shield located above the exhaust, have to be also
removed.
Thanks a million.
John

The shift linkage under the car is binding. You can also loosen the bolt
that gpes thru the bushings at the shifter base and lube there to correct
it. Very important not to tighten the bolt too tight or you will still have
the same prob.

David Short
Acura God

I was hoping you would see my message.

I can see that I wasn't clear and you conclude that the problem was on
the clutch mechanism.
The difficulty is to move the gear stick from gear to gear, as if
there is a cable with dry lubrication.
The problem exists with or without the engine running.Consequently it
eliminates the clutch.
The car only has 80,000 miles
If there is a cable .His it accessible from the inside of the car, by
removing the center console?
Thanks
John

There is a cable. It does not require lubrication, but can occasionally
wear into its sheath and bind. Is pedal effort smooth and even all along
its travel? If so, the cable itself is fine.

If you're having difficulty changing gear, that strongly suggests that your
clutch is not disengaging. This can be due to either the friction disc
sticking on its splines, or a misadjusted cable.

Is gear changing easier with the engine OFF?

How many miles on the car?

Is the clutch properly adjusted? (3/4" to 1" freeplay at the pedal)

Acura Integra 91 manual difficulty changing gears
I have the feeling that there is a cable connecting the lever to the
transmission that needs lubrication.
Is there a cable? How difficulty is it to get access to it ?
Thanks
John