Re: BMW Clutch Issue
You are accessing this site in a read-only mode. For full access to all member benefits, including message posting, please login or register. Registration is completely free, simple, and takes only a few seconds.
Login |
Free CarKB.com registration |
Whole discussion thread
The message you are replying to and its parents are listed in the reverse order with the most recent posts first. This might not be the whole discussion thread. To read all the messages in this thread please click here.
Re: BMW Clutch Issue
| JoshIII | 15 Jun 2007 03:02 |
"Scott Dorsey" <kludge@panix.com> wrote in message:
><skip> > Putting the thing back together, the problem is now actually worse, since [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Help! Anybody have any suggestions about what could be causing this issue? > --scott Gift (Answer) from JoshIII: I have a friend that had exact same problem, on about the same year and model as yours, i.e. mid 80's 5-series with manual transmission.
We replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, but problem was still apparent.
I determined the problem was in the clutch pedal itself, and not with the pressure plate or throw out bearing sticking on the transmission input shaft.
You can make this determination just by loosening the two nuts holding the slave cylinder to the transmission and pressing the clutch all the way down to see if it sticks to floor again.
If pedal still sticks to the floor, *AND* the slave cylinder is still under load with tension from the clutch pressure plate springs, then you know your problem is with the clutch pedal itself and not the transmission.
Next, I got on my back underneath his steering column to see how the clutch pedal linkage works.
If you notice there is a spring loaded hinged linkage that connects between the clutch pedal and the firewall (doing this from memory).
Seems like I remember the clutch master cylinder plunger connects directly to the clutch pedal.
Anyway, this linkage should have a little coil spring on it that compresses when you press your clutch pedal.
If you notice the little coil spring also has an adjustment nut and a lock nut on it.
Loosen these two nuts as far out as you can, and still are able to make the lock nut lock on the threads.
The way the clutch pedal linkage is designed, the linkage rotates past top dead center when the clutch pedal is fully pressed down, and will not allow pedal to come back up.
There should be an adjustment to the linkage itself, but there is not. The only other simple alternative is to loosen the coil spring tension nuts as described above.
This *should* resolve your problem.
It did on my friend's mid 80's 5-series BMW.
Please post result in this newsgroup.
Hope this helps resolve your problem!
JoshIII upstate south carolina josh3i at hotmail . com
|
| Scott Dorsey | 15 Jun 2007 01:56 |
1986 BMW 535i. I bought it a few years ago with a bad transmission and only 120k miles, and a friend of mine dropped an '83 junkyard transmission into it and a new clutch. It's been running well, and I have slowly been cleaning various things on it up.
Starting around 220,000 miles, the clutch began sticking closed. That is, I'd put my foot down, the pedal would stick to the ground, and the clutch would remain engaged. I could pull the pedal up and pump it down a couple times and the clutch would open properly again. It started happening now and then, and then more and more often.
I replaced the plunger on the clutch master cylinder, which was leaking, on the suspicion the seal in it was bad. Didn't fix anything. Took it to a respected BMW indy mechanic around here, who swore I did it wrong and replaced the plunger again. Didn't fix anything. Replaced the whole master cylinder. Didn't do anything. Changed the fluid and replaced the slave cylinder. Still no go.
Now, I am assuming that there is no possibility of the line between the two cylinders being an issue, and no backflow valve anywhere in the system. Is this correct?
Recently it got worse, and I took it in to him again. At this point, we figure it has to be something inside the transmission. He drops it, and replaces everything that looks even a bit suspicious, namely the throwout bearing release lever, the lever pin, the clutch release bearing, and the shift bushings. Everything else looks clean, though neither one of us could see how any one of these would cause the problem.
Putting the thing back together, the problem is now actually worse, since the friction point is closer to the floor than it was before. The car is now doing it almost all the time, making it impossible to drive except on the highway.
Help! Anybody have any suggestions about what could be causing this issue? --scott
 Signature "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
|
Quick links:
|
|
|