No Fred a ring spanner as known here in the UK is a flat bar as in an open-ended
wrench but instead of a fork at each end the thing has a 16 point (double hex)
ring that fits the nut. most common would be 1/2"-9/16" or over here 12mm -13mm

In the past as a jury-rig I have used a "ring" spanner with a large hex bolt in
the other.  " x nuts on the bolt locked and the torque wrench socket on that.
calculate the torque with the extension and set the torque wrench to it and off
you go.

I'm not saying it's perfect for main bearing caps or head bolts on a race engine
but it does work.

Steve

You didn't upset me.

How would you use a "ring spanner" with a torque wrench?  Can I assume
that "ring spanner" is another name for a box end wrench?

The opposite end of the box wrench is not likely to fit the 1/2" square
drive of a torque wrench.

An example for the truly frugal:  Once when I had to torque one of the
large nuts on a BMW steering rack I opted to make an adapter from a
piece of 1/4" plate steel.  I cut the required large hex opening in one
end and a 1/2" square in the other end a precise distance apart (center
to center).  Same principle there...

No Fred I didn't read your following paragraph but you didn't actually say the
same you merely said that certain devices were available with formulas or
figures that facilitates the use of them. I was simply making a suggestion that
if he had a ring spanner he could jury-rig an alternative to forking out cash
for something he would probably never use again.

Sorry if I upset you.

Steve

Did you bother to read the following paragraph?  I already said the same
thing...

Not really.  Try a ring spanner. Measure the length and calculate the reduction
you need to set the torque wrench to.  If you have a lever 1 ft long and exert
10lb pressure on it you have 10lb/ft so if it 2 ft long you have 20lb/ft etc.

Indeed- you're likely to get an error through the friction of the rod
turning in the shock and the bearing.

That's the problem.

I can usually get quite close to the correct setting by 'feeling' it. I
doubt it's a super critical setting. Haven't had any problem with changing
inserts on any car I've owned so I must be doing it about right.

Actually, you would not want to torque the strut rod.  You would want to
torque the nut and hold the strut.

Only problem being that a socket can't be used on the nut because the
hex recess in the strut rod comes up through it's middle.

There are short box end and open end extensions for torque wrenches that
allow this kind of operation.  The extension has a multiplication factor
to be applied to the reading on the torque wrench to get the actual
applied torque.  Or you could calculate the value yourself if you're sharp.

I checked my E39 - that has a hex (allen socket) in the top of the rod
which you use to stop it turning. To torque correctly you'll need one
which fits a torque wrench and a suitable spanner for the nut. Although
I'd guess there is a special tool. I'm pretty certain my long gone E28 had
the same arrangement - it's the only one I've changed the struts on.

Hello:)   I had this problem about 2 years ago on the passenger side and
took it in to the mechanic.  I remember him taking a large pair of
channel lock pliers to hold something under the fender while he
tightened the top strut nut.  My mechanic is now gone and I peaked under
the fender and dont see where could of put it to stop the strut from
spinning while tightening?  I dont want to put it on the chrome rod
unless that how its done? I put the car in the air and grabbed the tire
at 9 and 3 'clock and can see the whole assembly move.  Strut mounts
were new about 2 years ago.  I was hearing a noise over bumps on the
left side that why I went searching for the problem.  Thank :)Nate