I also rebuilt my rear axle recently for this problem and
was very surprised to pull out failed TIMKEN bearings.

I bought the complete bearing set from local hi-lo/ oreilly
auto parts place for around $100. It's the National / Bower BCA
brand and everything went together fine with great input and assistance
from this group and especially Tom Lawrence.

I just wished I could have found a reasonable priced locker unit to
put in the housing instead of the stock single track unit. I just didn't
have
the $450 that most places wanted.

My truck is a '98 1500 quad cab with 81K miles on it. Sounds just like
yours, pulled a few trailers, but nothing near abuse.

As far as changing fluids, they've all been serviced regularly, but I've
never seen bearing failure like this in anything I've owned.

We also have a 2000 Durango with 52K on the clock. I guess it'll be next.

Curtis

Chinese bearings instead of US made Timkens?

There is nothing wrong with the design Budd, what is wrong is the cost
cutting in the parts (such as in the bearings) used to make them now.

What's really odd, in my opinion, is the old 79 D-150 my son now drives has
the 9.25 axle in it with over 400,000 miles on it, AFAIK. I put one set of
outer bearings in it at just under 300,000, otherwise, untouched.

So, what's gone wrong with that axle design since 79????

Thanks people!

I checked the pinion depth and mesh pattern before removal so I have a
good reference.
I suppose I could just go for it and use a new shim of same thickness,
then install and recheck the depth. If it comes up short, I could add
shims behind the bearing race in the housing. If it comes up long I
have a problem (50-50 chance)!

I'm glad I read about the problems people are having with pinion
bearings here. I started to get the "whine" that at first sounded like
tires. I figured that at 70k my gears should still be fine but after
reading about early failures I blocked up the rear and ran it unloaded
and in gear...(ugh)!

Just as a data point, the truck is a 98 w/70k miles (2wd, 5.8L, 1500)
and has towed the occasional heavy load but in general has been treated
well. The only other problem has been an annoying coolant leak at the
thermostat housing.

-Bruce

Bruce,

The 9.25 adjusts a lot like an 8.75 Mopar.

If you're using the same gears but all new bearings you will need to at
least check the pinion depth as the new bearings can be off a few
thousandths then adjust if needed. Then set your lash and depth according to
specs.

Budd

I've set up about 5 axles, a mix of Ford 9" and D44 and have the equipment,
experience, and success rate ;^)

The issue is I always have done a complete gear swap. I only plan to replace
the bearings on my 98 since the R&P look fine and I caught the bearings early
(beginning of some fretting on the carrier and pinion bearings).

Since I am keeping the R&P, is it possible to use the same pinion depth shims
for the new bearings (I'll replace the shims, just use the same pack
thickness)? My reason for asking is that it usually is impossible to remove
the new bearing once installed without destroying it should I need to adjust
the shim pack further. I suppose I can measure the critical dimensions on the
old pinion with the old bearing and make any adjustments for the new bearing
being different, but since the old bearing is worn I might not get a good
reading.
Alternatively I could hone the new bearing or pinion so that I get a fit that
is easier to remove but that is a pain...

Any ideas?
Thanks,
-Bruce