does that apply to 5th wheel loads which combines pin weight and trailer
weight?  isnt the gcvwr on the '07s somewhere around 26000#?

Hmmm...  so you're going to toss all you've already paid on your '05, plus
an extra $3K, to buy a $37K truck, just to get an extra in-between gear in
your transmission (the 6spd has two overdrive gears) with an engine brake?
Just questioning the financial end here...

As for the new truck itself, it's still pretty new, so not a lot of time to
form any opinions on it.  I'm sure the engine is solid - but it's too soon
to tell about things like particulate filters, cats, fuel economy (since
it's gotta constantly use more fuel to burn out the residue that builds up
in the DPF), etc.

With regard to your warranty concerns, you'd be tearing up your new truck's
warranty the minute you hook up that toy hauler...  DC only rates them at
15,350 (and that's with 4.10's).

Given that, my vote would be to spend the money setting up your current
truck to do what you want it to do.  In the end, I think you'll be saving
money, and getting a better-performing truck out of it.

thanks for all the help.  my local dealer has a 6.7 bighorn edition 6 speed
auto with the exhaust brake that i can buy for $37,000.  after wrap around
from trading my '05 im looking at financing $39,992 and if i can grow to
live with the new headlights i might just grab it up.  any opininions on
this setup (6.7/6 speed auto/OEM engine brake)?

Don't hold your breath....  they have zero incentive to do so.  Those who
wanted/needed exhaust braking have turned to the aftermarket.

http://www.atsdiesel.com

To be fair, you should also check out the other big Dodge transmission shop,
DTT:  http://www.dieseltrans.com

Note that ATS uses a 5-clutch setup in their torque converter.  DTT still
swears by a single disc in their converters, and cranks up line pressure to
get the extra holding power.

when i set the cruise control for 70 mph for example, and start down a grade
with the 16,000# camper in tow the truck starts to speed up.  when it
reaches about 5 mph or so above the cruise set point the truck downshifts to
slow itself until it gets back down to the set point.  i know this isnt the
same thing as a real engine brake, but it was somewhat effective.  the
camper has excellent brakes and my prodigy does a great job controlling it,
although dialing it in is proving difficult.  i would like to add engine
braking, but if i keep this truck i would probably wait until chrysler
releases their upgrade.  any ideas on when that might be?

actually, im hoping to keep this truck as close to stock as possible for
longevity.  im so dang tired of eating wrap-around and planned on keeping
this truck indefinately....unless i end up trading it on an '07.

gotta link by chance?

Okay - several things here.  Yes, pulling power is a good thing - so is
stopping power.  The 3rd gen Rams have some great brakes - however, I'd
definitely want an exhaust brake when pulling that kind of load.  Your
truck's computer isn't exhaust-brake-aware, and an upgrade (though promised
by DC) isn't available yet.  Since you asked about turning up the engine's
power, we can assume you're cool with throwing caution to the wind, and
assuming warranty responsibilities.

With that, I'd suggest some mild tranny upgrades.  I'm an ATS guy when it
comes to transmissions (others have their preferences, but I've flogged the
ever-lovin' crap out of mine, without much of a problem).  If you go with
their torque converter (IMO, the only "weak link" left in the factory 48RE
setup) and valve body, along with their ATS Commander (may have changed the
name of that - the electronic controller), you'll have what you need to run
an exhaust brake.  Their box can talk to your exhaust brake controller, and
make sure the brake disengages if/when the TCC unlocks (though, with their
control box, you can maintain lockup all the way down to 4MPH, if you so
desired - it's adjustable).  In the ATS world, that's their "Stage 3" (or
Option 3) selection, for about $2,700.  Add another $1,000 for an exhaust
brake.  I'd also throw in a few hundred $$$ for the Mag-Hytec double-deep
tranny pan.  It provides better cooling, and more fluid capacity (which is
also better for cooling).

For the power side, I still think TST is the best in the business.  Their
latest revision of their Powermax box has plenty of bells and whistles...
two user adjustable fueling curves (both low-RPM and high-RPM curves),
user-adjustable fuel pressure (I don't recommend going too much over stock
pressure, if at all - but the option's there), user-adjustable timing
(really only useful if using it in conjunction with other boxes, but hey -
it's there), and built-in protection (defueling) based on EGT's and boost
pressure.  There's also a built-in cool-down timer (you can turn the
ignition off and lock up the truck - it'll continue to idle until a preset
temp. or time limit, then shut the truck off).  It gives you digital EGT and
boost gauges, a rail pressure gauge (useful if you're going to muck with
fuel pressure), and comes with four different base programs (three
performance programs, one fuel economy program).  For $900, it's all you'll
ever need in the way of boxes or programmers - good for anywhere from stock
to 600HP at the wheels (and I got the dyno sheets to prove it!  :)  Now, you
can't get that kind of power just by throwing this box on there (well, you
could, but without a better intake, bigger/free-flow exhaust, and larger
turbo, you'd melt the engine in short order), but the point is it's got the
ability to deliver.

With the added power, I don't think a gear swap would be necessary.  With a
manual, I might think differently, but the auto gives you a little more
flexibility in that area.

In addition,  I'd definitely recommend a trans temp gauge.  They go for
about $55.  I also recommend installing the sensor in the return line from
the cooler.  If you've got a flaring tool and get some AN fittings, you can
do this yourself - otherwise, I recommend a $75 replacement cooler line from
Mass Diesel that has the port already installed.

So, for about $5K, you can set your truck up to pull (and stop) your trailer
comfortably.  Yeah, a 6spd auto would be nice...  the 6.7L engine would be
nice...  but I don't think you're going to do better than $5K on a trade-in.

please see http://inlinediesel.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=617 and give me
your feedback and advice.
thanks,