Re: Crankshaft sensor - 1998 Dodge Caravan 3.3
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Re: Crankshaft sensor - 1998 Dodge Caravan 3.3
| aarcuda69062 | 13 Jul 2008 19:56 |
> Hi Dan I'm not Dan.
> Thanks for your help. I would point out that we also replaced the computer > in the van 3 weeks ago, with a used one. uh-oh... was the used computer programmed correctly? Was the used computer from a vehicle with VTSS? Does your vehicle have VTSS?
> I will mention your comments to my > mechanic. He worked at Chrysler, and was mentioning to me a situation about [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > move. I remember hearing a "clunk" noise just before it started to move. > Would this be a symptom of a flywheel problem? Could very well be.
> He is going to look at it > again next Thursday. Mike |
| Mike | 13 Jul 2008 18:10 |
Hi Dan Thanks for your help. I would point out that we also replaced the computer in the van 3 weeks ago, with a used one. I will mention your comments to my mechanic. He worked at Chrysler, and was mentioning to me a situation about a van that he worked on while at Chrysler, that had some type of flywheel problem, that induced other problems, like you were referring to. Please note that we weren't using the van a lot over the winter, and it was sitting for approximately 2 months. When I started it after sitting for 2 months, it would not move, and I waited for approximately 5 minutes before it would move. I remember hearing a "clunk" noise just before it started to move. Would this be a symptom of a flywheel problem? He is going to look at it again next Thursday. Mike
> > Having issue with power supply regarding wire running from the crankshaft > > sensor. [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > synch because of a broken (shifted) flywheel, you'll get the exact > symptoms you describe. |
| aarcuda69062 | 13 Jul 2008 13:22 |
> Having issue with power supply regarding wire running from the crankshaft > sensor. Running -TO- the crankshaft sensor. 8 volt supply, pin 44 of the PCM, supplies 8 volts to the crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor and flex fuel sensor if equipped. Any of these can short out and kill the supply voltage to the other sensors making them inop.
> When problem happens, the van will crank but not start. On a scope, > when it happens it does not show any codes, but indicates crank 0, cam 0. On a scan tool?
> The crankshaft sensor was replaced 3 weeks ago after the problem first > started (with a non-Chrysler product). The mechanic at that time still had [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > says it may in fact be something else. What are your thoughts on this > matter. Thanks for your help. I'd unplug all sensors powered by the 8 volt supply and test for 8 volts being present. If so, one of those sensors may be shorting and drawing the 8 volt supply down. If you don't have 8 volts at the sensors when they are unplugged, look for an open circuit in the 8 volt supply wire, if you don't find an open circuit, test for 8 volts directly at pin #44 at the PCM.
Also check for a broken flywheel, if the cam and crank sensors go out of synch because of a broken (shifted) flywheel, you'll get the exact symptoms you describe.
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| Mike | 13 Jul 2008 05:54 |
Having issue with power supply regarding wire running from the crankshaft sensor. When problem happens, the van will crank but not start. On a scope, when it happens it does not show any codes, but indicates crank 0, cam 0.
The crankshaft sensor was replaced 3 weeks ago after the problem first started (with a non-Chrysler product). The mechanic at that time still had the issue of the no-start after this was done. The mechanic advised that the wire regarding the crank sensor (when the wire was disconnected from a power source) seemed to be drawing power from another wire in the harness. He placed the wire on the opposite side of the wire harness, and it started fine for 3 weeks. Recently, the van stopped again, and this time there also seemed to be a power issue with the wire connected to the crankshaft sensor. The same mechanic said he was testing the wire, and he unplugged the wire (one near exhaust manifold and another near front of engine) and it started again and has been fine. He says I have to do something, and I am wondering if that wire may be corroded, and should be replaced. The mechanic is talking of replacing the wire with another length, and soldering it to the original wire below the plug-in. Does this seem a reasonable solution. He says it may in fact be something else. What are your thoughts on this matter. Thanks for your help.
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