Re: Advice on 94 Honda Accord LX
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Re: Advice on 94 Honda Accord LX
| Elle | 26 Feb 2006 23:18 |
> The > PCV valve can get PLUGGED (which is what you described about the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > We dont' have that here so I'm no expert (about anything, actually :-) ) Nice try, but I'm calling them like I see them. You /are/ one of the gurus here. Good explanation. Wouldn't it be nice if this fixed this guy's 94 Accord as well? It might.
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| 'Curly Q. Links' | 26 Feb 2006 18:29 |
> > Sorry, Elle, gotta disagree with you on this one. If the spring in the > > PCV rusts and snaps, it will allow a free flow (rather than 'metered' > > flow) of oil vapor in the crankcase to be sucked into the intake, which > > means the engine can be burning the oil invisibly. Of course the CAT > > will suffer, and Oxygen sensors can get wrecked too. -----------------------
> I'm glad you posted. I was trying to remember whether the reason behind high > oil consumption with a failed/failing PCV valve was oil vapor in the > crankcase being sucked into the air intake at an extraordinary rate and so > burned, or whether it was the high crankcase pressure pushing the oil out > the seals. Another poster contended what you said, as well. I suppose a > google check would also support this point. ------------------
Sorry, Elle, I should have given you points for being HALF-RIGHT. The PCV valve can get PLUGGED (which is what you described about the pressure increase / leaking seals) or it can go OPEN, which sucks oil / fouls plugs / wrecks CAT. Stuck open can also shoot the mileage to HECK because the computer compensates by altering timing / richness when it won't idle correctly. Some would argue it can screw up your emission tests too. :-)
We dont' have that here so I'm no expert (about anything, actually :-) )
'Curly'
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| Elle | 26 Feb 2006 17:31 |
> Elle wrote: >> With this info, I would not bet on it being the PCV valve. This valve [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > means the engine can be burning the oil invisibly. Of course the CAT > will suffer, and Oxygen sensors can get wrecked too. I'm glad you posted. I was trying to remember whether the reason behind high oil consumption with a failed/failing PCV valve was oil vapor in the crankcase being sucked into the air intake at an extraordinary rate and so burned, or whether it was the high crankcase pressure pushing the oil out the seals. Another poster contended what you said, as well. I suppose a google check would also support this point.
So since I know Curly is a reputable regular here, and the other guy also said it, I agree: Try changing the PCV valve.
The Bhudda poster can also do a little benchmark test beforehand: With the car at idle, pinch shut the tube to the PCV valve. Listen for a click. It should happen within 30 seconds. No click, definitely replace the valve. Click, and the valve may or may not need replacement. If the age is unknown, replace it.
Use only a genuine Honda (= OEM) PCV valve. See www.slhonda.com (under the parts section, engine, breather tube) for good OEM prices; around $19 if one includes shipping. One of my dealers had a pretty fair price for PCV valves, too, so call locally as well.
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| 'Curly Q. Links' | 26 Feb 2006 17:15 |
> With this info, I would not bet on it being the PCV valve. This valve > normally routes gases in the (oil) crankcase to the air intake. If its > malfunctioning, what it can cause is overpressurization of the crankcase, > forcing oil past various seals, like the oil pan seal, distributor shaft > seal, or front crankshaft seal. If you're not seeing oil on the ground or a > really greasy engine exterior, I'd rule the PCV valve out. <SNIP>
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Sorry, Elle, gotta disagree with you on this one. If the spring in the PCV rusts and snaps, it will allow a free flow (rather than 'metered' flow) of oil vapor in the crankcase to be sucked into the intake, which means the engine can be burning the oil invisibly. Of course the CAT will suffer, and Oxygen sensors can get wrecked too.
'Curly'
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| Elle | 26 Feb 2006 02:22 |
> Elle wrote: >> How much diagnostics actually went into identifying the valve as the [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Now that you know more about the situation and the distinct burning > only at cold start-up, what do you still think? Is it the PCV valve? With this info, I would not bet on it being the PCV valve. This valve normally routes gases in the (oil) crankcase to the air intake. If its malfunctioning, what it can cause is overpressurization of the crankcase, forcing oil past various seals, like the oil pan seal, distributor shaft seal, or front crankshaft seal. If you're not seeing oil on the ground or a really greasy engine exterior, I'd rule the PCV valve out.
You can replace it (or just clean it out with a spray can of carburetor cleaner, easily found at Autozone and probably Wal-Mart), simply because it's an old car, it's probably due (per routine maintenance), and it's not expensive, but I don't think it's going to fix the oil consumption problems.
One final check: Are the spark plug tubes filling with oil? If not, then whether it's a valve or worn rings or something else is now beyond my expertise. I'd be googling and checking back here to gather other's input.
I think the smoke is a symptom of something getting into the cylinders that is not supposed to...
Good luck. Updates are welcome.
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| bigwhitebhudda@netscape.net | 25 Feb 2006 20:33 |
> How much diagnostics actually went into identifying the valve as the > problem? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Are you seeing oil drips beneath the car when it sits awhile? When the car is started after sitting a while, it does emit a lot of smoke. The smoke does have a blueish tint, but I would say it is more gray than blue. Other than this, no, there are no leaks, and the valve cover does not significantly leak, althogh there is a trace amount of oil on it.
I personally think that the car has all the power it should for being its age. It still climbs hills beautifully and never overheats. The heater and air conditioning work great. I have never noticed leaking on the ground where I have parked it.
All the above information was all that went into the original diagnostic about maybe having a bad valve or valve seal.
I have been monitoring gas consumption since I bought the car. I drive probably 90% of the time on the highway (about 400 to 450 miles each week) and I have averaged 32 to 34 mpg.
Now that you know more about the situation and the distinct burning only at cold start-up, what do you still think? Is it the PCV valve? I hope so, because that sounds like the easiest and cheapest fix.
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| Elle | 24 Feb 2006 18:22 |
How much diagnostics actually went into identifying the valve as the problem?
Does the engine seem to lack power or otherwise sound odd? I know that may be hard to assess with a new used car, but give it a shot.
Are you seeing oil drips beneath the car when it sits awhile?
I would first do a complete tuneup (genuine Honda parts only for plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor, and PCV valve); new air filter and fuel filter. Drain and fill with genuine Honda coolant or the orange Havoline Dexcool the cooling system. Purge properly of air. Check and adjust as needed the ignition timing.
That's around $200 of parts and labor. Do not go cheap on the parts: Buy OEM (= genuine Honda) as directed above. This $200 is an investment. These items need to be done every few years anyway.
See http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id11.html for an overview of the tuneup above.
I would then monitor the oil level. Make sure it's not leaking from the valve cover or into the spark plug tubes: Check the exterior of the engine right beneath the valve cover; check the spark plug tubes once a week for the immediate future. Report on what you see. There are certain seals that certainly may need replacement for a car this old.
Look for oil drips on the floor beneath the car, and try to identify from where they are coming.
A bad PCV valve will cause excessive oil consumption. The good news is it's only about a $20 part and most people can change it out themselves within five minutes (an hour if you're new to this).
Also, start monitoring the gas consumption. Measure mileage between fillups, divide gallons at each fillup with miles driven. Report back after four or so fillups.
Elle Original owner, 1991 Civic LX, 174k miles. Runs like a top. 40 mpg most of the year.
>I am a new to the "honda owner family." I bought a used Honda Accord > LX with 165,000 miles on it two months ago. I have since noticed, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > it to get the valve replaced just to avoid the nuisance and potential > hazard? |
| bigwhitebhudda@netscape.net | 24 Feb 2006 17:48 |
I am a new to the "honda owner family." I bought a used Honda Accord LX with 165,000 miles on it two months ago. I have since noticed, unfortunately, that it is burning about one quart of oil between every time I fill up with gas. A mechanic told me it was probably an old valve that had gone bad. He did not quote me a price for repair, but I can imagine it will be expensive. What do you all think? With my Accord being 12 years old and having 165,000 miles, would it be worth it to get the valve replaced just to avoid the nuisance and potential hazard?
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