No, replacing the PCV valve is very easy on most Hondas and
kinda tough on some, though. It appears very easy for yours,
per
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat
cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=BREATHER+TUBE

See the following for help (manuals and/or illustrations
with changing the oil pan gasket and PCV valve).

http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html (Try the 96
Accord manual)

www.autozone.com

bkhondaparts.com for illustrations. For the breather tube,
click on "Display all," read down.

Buy only an OEM PCV valve. Should cost under $25 at your
dealer.

I would be surprised if the oil pan was not mating properly
to the engine block yada surface, but I guess it could
happen. I think the leakage would be way worse if the pan
were this deformed.

Maybe buy one of those cheapo, small range, torque wrenches
at Harbor Freight to torque the oil pan nuts to spec. This
is what I used on my 91 Civic a few years ago when I did the
oil pan gasket.

I'd be checking around the distributor's bottom for signs of
leakage, too. The camshaft penetrates the distributor
housing, and there's a seal or two where it does. They are
known to need replacement every five years or so. Google
this newsgroup for more info.

Actually, the mechanic said I need to replace the pcv valve.  This
does require removing the transmission, correct?

--TJ

in my experience, most leaks respond well to tightening the nuts a
little, making sure the rocker cover gasket isn't leaking, the pcv valve
is not blocked, and using a decent oil that has seal conditioners like
castrol.

Hello, Group:

When you replace the oil pan gasket for this make/model, do I need to
also replace the oil pan?  I have some leaking from the gasket area of
the pan, so I'm trying to take the easiest way out.  Also, are there
any tutorials on the Internet to do this job?

Thanks,

--TJ