That's one difference. Also the automotive pulley bolts are to be torqued
to such a figuure as to prevent movement. Your saw blade nuts/bolts are
just snugged by hand to an unknown torque, and are meant to be repeatedly
removed and replaced.

I restate:
"Honda is just about the only manufacturer whose bolts run in a tightening  
direction. Everybody else has bolts that run in a LOOSENING direction, and  
these DO NOT COME LOOSE IN USE." Nobody can explain why this is, if it's
assumed that the pulley and bolt can move relative to the crank.

And even on a Honda, a pulley bolt insufficiently tightened (as little as
20 lbs short of the proper figure), will eventually result in a bolt that
*FALLS OUT*.  Talk to any mechanic familiar with this subject.

The damned assembly is SOLID in use when properly assembled. Nothing
anybody says here will change that fundamental fact.

The difference is, sawblades are not splined or keyed, so they can turn
(and tighten) indefinitely. Splining or keying the pulley WOULD mitigate
this effect.

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Totally different application.

Honda is just about the only manufacturer whose bolts run in a tightening
direction. Everybody else has bolts that run in a LOOSENING direction, and
these DO NOT COME LOOSE IN USE.

Everybody elses' bolts are the same as Honda's, and are torqued to similar
tensions.

Hmmm, not to add to the confusion, but...

I don't know how much relevance this has to crankshaft pulley bolts, but
 on every table saw or radial-arm saw I've ever used, reverse-threaded
nuts are used to hold the blade on the threaded shaft, because the
clockwise (looking at the shaft) rotation of the blade would cause a nut
with a normal thread to come loose and spin off.  And yes, they do
tighten up, with very little use.

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If the bolt doesn't move then locktite would have been recommended, but
instead they recommend oil.

http://square.cjb.cc/images/oilgood.gif

Not observing the different variety of bolts manufactured is misleading.
Patents are create for almost everything, possibly including the tap and
die used on self-tightening bolts.

Most of these crank bolts show no signs of wear, crystalization,
bonding or rust. However there is a slight wear on the face of the bolt
which probably suggest that it's moving.

jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:jY2dnf6UQMdVmPHeRVn-
sQ@speakeasy.net:

<snip>

Jim: Properly tightened, that bolt does NOT allow any sort of movement. It
/cannot/, and it /does not/. Period. Full stop. End of story.

You may be an electronics whiz, but you are clearly no mechanical engineer.

The pulley and the pulley bolt do NOT move in use, and the bolt absolutely
does NOT rotate so as to "tighten" after initial torque.

If you choose to believe that the bolt tightens more through rotation after
initial tightening torque, then you are misleading yourself and everyone
who reads your posts.

There are many reasons why some crank bolts are difficult to remove.
Rotation after initial tightening torque is *NOT* one of them.

this afternoon, i went to my favorite junkyard and bought two crank
bolts.  one from an 91 civic, one from a 92 civic.  i'm going to post
the pics later this evening, but the observations are these:

_91_
* eyeball=poppingly hard to shift - had to get a fulcrum and bounce full
bodyweight at the end of a 18"x3/4" breaker bar.
* no evidence of loctite.
* clear fretting damage on the mating surface between the washer & the
bolt head.
* no evidence of corrosion.  [i'm in california]
* pulley wheel locked with single woodruff key.

_92_
* it was definitely snug, but i could remove with one hand.
* bolt thread clearly loctited.
* no evidence of fretting.
* no evidence of corrosion.
* pulley wheel splined /and/ woodruffed.

now, we all know what loctite does - it binds threads so they don't
move.  no movement means no possible further tightening.  loctite also
means a bolt is hard to remove compared to its fastening torque.

conclusions:

1. there is /definitely/ lash in the 91 pulley wheel - something that
honda evidently felt needed to be addressed with the addition of a
splined interface for the 92.  [splines don't eliminate lash, but help
mitigate it.]  fretting [or lack thereof in the case of the 92] is as
clear an evidence of lash as you can get.

2. loctite /prevents/ further tightening of the bolt!  hence the 92 was
much easier to remove, despite the loctite's binding function.  the
reduced lash would help in this regard also.

time to get out the camera...