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Some states yes, not this one (we wish there was!)

It has to do with the quality of the OEM part. Sometimes they are better,
other times (as in the Taurus) there worse.
BMW, VW Volvo and now even Ford Focus have a extremely soft metal for the
rotors. Replace them with the pads they wear that quick.

there's laws about letting a vehicle leave the shop in that condition,
regardless of how it drove in.  you need to check into them.

but that's the point guy!!!  you get /trained/ to skim disks as the
"solution", but [and here's the point that i find fascinating] your
experience contradicts what you were told!  but you still /repeat/ what
you were told!  can you tell what's wrong with this picture?

Seen that before; and had customers drive out of the store like that too!

As for the Taurus, You did just fine
Ford Taurus factory rotors were crap. Wouldn't hold a clean cut for 2
months. Almost all Taurus brake jobs would have pulsation when they came in
and most cutting would help, but on a few they would come back. we learned
new rotors were the only real solution. Even on My and my Mom's Taurus.

anyway I installed new front rotors on my taurus today, turning the old
ones was $20 ea, new ones was $27...guess I could've saved $14........
Oh well, maybe next time..

A couple years ago my brother asked me to fix his brakes, said they just
quit workin'. The rotors were wore down through the vents, mustaben
steel on steel for at least 10,000 miles..... wonder if they were past
the minimum thickness....

With all of the debate about turning rotors I thought I'd do a bit of
measuring and documenting while doing a brake job. Here is my results.

The car 1987(?) Honda accord; poor shape, 200,000K no brakes due to a
ruptured line. This soaked the pads and as per MAP standards required new
pads. Now disregarding the brake line (and the springs off in the right read
drum that he couldn't afford to repair) the car would appear as a prime
candidate for a DIY brake job in the front driveway. Both rotors had no
major grooves, very small ridge> I could picture this as a easy pad slap.

Now ASE standards have you measure several different angles to determine if
a re-cut is needed. We concentrate on the warpage factor. I don't feel like
buying a few hundred dollars more of measuring tools to tell me what one
pass on a lathe will tell me.

The right front rotor measured at .747 to start
   I took one pass at .002 on each side
   Final measurement was .742

The left front rotor measured at .697 on the outside edge and .703 at the
inside edge to start
   I took one pass at .002 on each side. the start of the cut was heavy, I
thought I'd have to do a second cut. Often we will see the O/S edge a
wee bit thinner than the inside edge, but when I returned to the lath one
cut was all that was needed.
   Final measurement was .696

I forgot to write it down, but discard was in the .660 range.

Most people who do brakes at home won't measure the rotors and it was
interesting to see the big difference in specs from the left to the right to
start. We thought there would be at least one new rotor needed, but specs
are specs.

You can see by the measurements that the lath action took off very little
metal, not enough to make a difference on heat dissipation, but the little
work guaranteed me that this car (the POS it was) had decent front brakes
when he left.
This is why I turn rotors every time. In the big picture, more metal is lost
in the time between brake jobs by the pads than on a simple clean up on a
lath.