At the moment I drive a 91 vw golf 1.8 GL. I'll be graduating soon,
and I've been keeping my eyes open for a new car. I keep on looking,
but the more I look, the more I'm realizing I really just want a nicer
version of my car, but with a better engine & suspension. Now that

I have a 1995 vw cabrio, 5 speed manual transmission and I am having a
problem with the dash, car starting, bucking and stalling. I replaced
the negative battery cable about 2 weeks ago because the old one was
was badly corroded and my tach and speedometer would work

95 Golf, manual transmission
My cruise control, air conditioning, and coolant temperature indicator
all stopped working more-or-less simultaneously (within a few weeks of
each other).  Also, the coolant level warning light and oil pressure

The electric/power sunroof on my '85 golf only opens a fraction of an
inch at a time.  Each time I press the button it opens something like
half an inch.  There's a distinctly audible click, like an electrical
relay opening.  I have to release the button and then depress it again

Temp gauge goes to top, red light flashes, but radiator doesn't steam and
fan doesn't come on. Oil temp rises slowly. Takes about 5 miles of urban
driving from cold start.
Started cold and allowed to idle. Took about 15 minutes for gauge to hit top

My 2004 Passat 1.8 is due for its 60,000 mile service.  Is this a necessary
service and can I do it myself?  The dealer charges a fortune.
Thanks in advance.
David

What are the primary questions concerning a syncro that should be asked
prior to purchase?
Steve

I have a '91 golf and it was broken into yesterday. They broke the
hatch window and the passenger window. I was just scouting out a few
replacement places and it looks like it'll cost ~300 for the rear
window and ~250 for the passenger installed. That's a bit more than

I have a problem with my M Reg 94 Golf CL Driver doors staying locked.
When I turn the key, all the push buttons on the doors go up and down but I
cannot open any of the doors except the boot which is the only lock that
works.

I have a 1998 VW petrol Sharan which has just started to have a really
annoying problem.
I can start the car cold, drive for a few miles with absolutely no problems.
Either 2 things will then happen:

I'm trying to find a replacement for the crankcase ventilation hose (pipe?)
for my '87 16V Scirocco.
VW says they haven't got it and can't get it.  Same from a couple of local
supply places.

Have a 1997 Jetta, 2.0L gas, manual. 185K kms (I live in Canada).
Noticed clutch slipping lately.  Mechanic says it needs to be replaced
soon.  Said it's a 5-6 hour job.  This seems long to me.  I would
think it would take a couple hours.  $1000 P\L after it's all said and

My battery runs down after a few days idle. The battery has been
replaced. The alternator and regulator checked okay. The mechanic
measures a current leak that does not go away as each fuse and relay is
pulled but does go away when the entire fuse panel is disconnected.

I'm tearing down the front seats to swap the foam rubber/cloth, as the
driver's seat is shot.  I don't feel like shopping for replacement
seats at this time.  I've removed the cloth partially, and I see
various springs, rods, clips, etc., keeping the assembly together.  I

I am purchasing a second Hand VW T4 next week and would like some advice on
the best method to complete the transaction. Bankers Drafts don't seem to
offer an advantages, difficult to pay cash these days (due to money
laundering laws). Shopuld I pay by cheque and get the seller ...